Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
Kenmore elite Model# 110950402
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I know it might be coming too late for you...but at least it may help others. I`ve just fixed the problem myself. First you didnt mention if the inside light turns on n off with the closing of door. Mine was burned so I replaced it to find that it was always on. so I figured it had to be the door switch. I called Sears n the part was more expensive there $52 cad but they had it in stock.So I unplugged the Dryer n turned the breaker off. ( as an amateur , one should b xtra careful...)unscrewed the 3 back screws, the few screws holding the pieces of metal under the top enamel cover, gently pulled up the control panel enough so I could reach the plastic connector that links the interior wires to the door switch n pulled the defective part out n gently inserted the new one in as I didnt take the whole front apart I did need a hanger wire to grab the wire from the top. Obviously u could take the front of the dryer off but I could easily see the wires n picked it up on the first try,the whole process took me 10 min max n it works. Oh yes! I did remove the very bottom front part ( 2 screws) only to find a manual in there it will tell u how to test the dryer n get a error code back ( in a nut shell u press more time less time more time less time within 5 seconds while the dryer is off (no lights) n in the manual it gives u the meaning of error code...Good luck to all!
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
make sure it is not set on air only,just went to a job and that's what it was lol.unplug dryer,take off bottom panel,on right side you'll see the heating element,pull off one of the wires and read out heater with a meter,if it's bad you'll need part number 3387747
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
leave door open and press the rubber botton inside, \ I just hooked up mine and it did same thing, i pushed botton light went out, so this told me the door wasnt closing correctly, you have to push hard on door first couple times. hope this helps you.
Posted on Feb 24, 2010
Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
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