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Westinghouse cyclic defrost leaking inside fridge

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Westinghouse Aurora Frost free fridge

You need to remove the clog in the drain line from the freezer to the condenser, Look under the fridge for the plastic drain line and blow it out or otherwise clear it, Then insure that the unit is level. Sooner or later you need to clean the freezer drain pan. After using up your frozen food, remove the back panels of the freezer and clean the area well.

Ray

Posted on Oct 29, 2008

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  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: Westinghouse 410l fridge trips new RCD's in fusebox

Tripping an earth leakage would indicate a break down of insulation in the windings of the compressor, the possibility of a short circuit in the wiring system or the defrost element down to earth. I recommend you have a certified technician check it out before you have a fire. If the Hoover is in good condition there is no reason not to replace it. Rate me please.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: have Kelvinator Cyclic 500 Fridge, Does not seem to defrost prope

has the thermostat been replaced? if so it is probably the wrong 1

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: leaking inside regrigerator

This is a common problem with top mount freezers and an easy repair .Remove the food and the ice maker from the freezer ( if equiped ) . Remove the rear freezer panel . Using a hair dryer , start in the middle , below the coils , defrosting , until you see the drain hole . Use hot water to help defrost the hole . Once water starts going thru the hole , use a small hose inserted into the hole , and blow thru , to remove any unseen debris in the drain line . Use an ALUMINUM or COPPER solid wire , 14-16 guage , with the insulation completely off , and insert one end into the drain hole as far as possible without any force . Wrap the other end about 1 1/2 to 2 turns , around the black rod (defrost heater) , above the hole . When refrig goes into defrost , the heat will transfer from the heater , to the wire , keeping the hole from freezing up again .

Posted on Apr 11, 2010

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: our westinghouse rp342 cyclic defrost

defrost element is cactus

Posted on Feb 21, 2011

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Empty the refigerator and freezer, unplug it for about 8 hours, leave freezer door open so it will completely defrost. Plug it back in for 4 hours and close doors before you fill it back up with food. If you have a thermometer, check the interior temperatures before you fill it back up. Refigerator should be around 42 degrees F.

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It sounds like you have a cyclic defrost fridge,Kelvinators were originally fitted with heat assist thermostats,so in order for the fridge to come back on a yellow wire heater was run around the cooling evaporator in the fridge compartment start running again at approx +4C so when the element fused the fridge did not start again until approx +12C.So instead of replacing heater a different thermo was used that came back on at +4c deg regardless.Kind Regards.

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This is a bad design flaw, the fridhe is cooled by fan forced air from the freazer. Two ducts vent into and out of the fridge fron the freezer and ice can block them up (which you can find if you take off all the plastic at the top and back of the fridge).
Hence, when they block up, the frindge does not cool, hence the thermostat tells the fridge to keep running which makes the freezer colder and colder, making the blockage worse.

You need to not only fully defrost the freezer (which can be done quicker by removing the plastic panel in the back of the freezer and using a hairdryer) BUT also fully dry the fridge before turning it back on.
To stop it happening again, avoid puting unvovered liquids or hot items in the fridge. Also avoid leaving the fridge and freezer doors open for long especially in humid conditions. As I said, it's a bad design.

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Westinghouse 410l fridge trips new RCD's in fusebox


Tripping an earth leakage would indicate a break down of insulation in the windings of the compressor, the possibility of a short circuit in the wiring system or the defrost element down to earth. I recommend you have a certified technician check it out before you have a fire. If the Hoover is in good condition there is no reason not to replace it. Rate me please.

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- Check air vent if air is present.
- Check if the unit is not overloaded with stocks or air vent block with stocks.
- If no air is present in vents then check your blower inside if operating.
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OK, usually if you see an oily substance that you are sure is not from the fridge contents it's oil from the sealed system. When a leak in the sealed system happens the refrigerant gas leaks out and the lubricating oil also leaks out. I'm afraid you may be in this situation. As the refrigerant leaks out the cooling efficientcy drops off quickly and eventually there is no cooling at all. You would have to use a refrigerant leak detector "sniffer" to locate the leak and then have a certified company repair the unit. Sadly, the cost to do a compressor replacement and leak repair is 2/3's or more the cost of a new fridge...

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