Question about Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hoops, it almost sounds like you lost a leg of power, L2. L1 is sending power to the board but but it's not making the loop. Too much of a coencidence that the burners and oven are not working. Check the cord connection to the oven. You should have 220V across the 2 outer terminals. 120V from each end to center terminal. Let me know what you find. Catriver.
Posted on Dec 16, 2007
SOURCE: Burners Blew
I had a similar problem while mine was still under warranty. Seemed like every time I used the oven and stove top for a major dinner it would short out and I would get an error code: F1:E6. They replaced the board under the display area, but it happened again about 6 months later. Turned out that when they made the oven they didn't insert a chimney like vent system from the bottom left side of the oven to the vent holes that come out the upper left side of the stovetop. This caused the panel to overheat and stop the entire oven from working. They replaced the board again and installed the "chimney vent system" and I haven't had the problem occur again (it's been 3 years!).
Posted on Feb 17, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore range
If this range has electric elements in the oven, you may have blown one of the heating elements. Do any of the oven functions work? If you were attempting to BAKE when this occurred, have you attempted to turn on the BROILER to see if it works? If the BROILER still heats up, you may just have a bad heating element. If both features quit working, the problem may be with your Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. Post back with comments and let me know.
Posted on Feb 18, 2008
I know you probably have the problem fixed by now, but I had the same problem with my frigidaire range just the other day. Loud popping sound, range/clock controls do not work. Stovetop still works great.
I took the back off the stove and got to the circuit board. Unplug the connector and the five spade connector wires. Once you do that, remove the 4 screws holding the entire assembly in place. The circuit board(s) are held in the housing with retaining clips on the housing. Use a small screwdriver or similar to pull back on each clip to pry each side of the board out. Once the board(s) are free, look in between the two circuit boards and you will see the problem. The larger, 20 amp relay is the culprit. It blew traces off of both boards making it almost impossible to repair. Without having a schematic to go by, I went ahead and decided to just replace w/ new boards as opposed to trying to solder the traces. I have not checked on prices, but brief web searches didn't return any results. The board part # is SF5301-S7509-N
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
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