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I recently replaced the high limit switch and the thermal fuse after having problems because of a clogged vent. The dryer was working fine for weeks, until recently it started up then only ran for a few minutes. After a while it would start again but still wouldn't run but for a few minutes. If it's the motor is it worth replacing and how do you access it? Any info would be appreciated.

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Hello,

Disconnect power first: Many dryers that I see have the two piece front, but some are the full front with no lower access panel on the bottom front ( see paragraph below ). The lower panel can be removed by using a straight screw driver to pry it off the upper clips, place screw driver in the middle top area ( below the door opening ) and "pop" it out towards you, sometimes you may have to do this at the side top corners of the lower panel as well. Once un-clipped from the top clips, the panel will have to be lifted up off the lower clips towards you. Once the lower panel is off, you should be able to see 2 screws on the bottom corners of the door panel, loosen these 2 screws off a couple of turns, but do not remove them. From here you can see the idler pulley, motor, belt break switch and part of the belt. To go further in the dis assembly, lift the cover from the lint filter or if yours is the one with a filter and cover together, remove the whole filter. You will see 2 screws under the cover/filter, remove them. Now, you will need a putty knife or a thin shafted straight screw driver to remove the top panel. Push the putty knife or screw driver here to "pop" the front top clips. The top panel will hinge back towards the wall and can be left there. Just inside the top of the front panel, you will see 2 screws, remove them. You will see the wires for the door switch on the right side, remove the metal clips to allow a more loose wire harness, hold the drum up slightly in one hand and tilt the top of the front panel towards you, you can now lift it off of the screws that you loosened earlier and place it on the right side of the dryer cabinet. On the dryers with a full front, use the same directions but you can ignore the lower panel and the loosen the screws parts. The front will lift off of 2 clips about 6 inches from the bottom and again be placed on the right side of the cabinet. You should undo the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley, now you are ready to remove the drum. Just grab hold of both ends and lift it out.

Once the drum is lifted out, you should see the motor and motor wires on the right side at the bottom. Write down what color wire goes to what # terminal. The motor has a small pulley on the belt end and a fan blower that is screwed to the other end of the motor. This is a good way to unscrew this LEFT HAND threaded fan blower. If your old motor does not have a flat section to place the crescent wrench on, use a pair of vise-grip pliers to grab the motor shaft.

Use a large straight screwdriver to push down on one end of the green motor clips to remove them. They are spring loaded, once one side is "popped" off, they will lift off easily. Lift the motor out of it's carriage.

Note: Not every fan blower can be saved/removed :-(

Sometimes that blower has been married to that motor shaft too long and you will need to break it off to replace the motor.

Click here for rewiring the new motor.

Hope this will help!
Ryan


Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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Hi Warren Fink
Try this solution to your problem

A vent clogged with lint can cause the dryer to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
Please take time to rate me
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I would check the thermal fuse or thermostat. If the thermal fuse is blown check for obstructions in your vent then replace. For a video on testing these components go to www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html scroll down to troubleshooting an electric dryer.

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This repair will most likely be much cheaper than buying a replacement, unless you just want to make a jump to gas. First, check the venting for the dryer. Clogged venting can cause prolonged drying times. It could also be caused by a blown thermal fuse, bad heating element or high limit thermostat. If the venting is clear all the way to where it exhausts to the outside, then I would suspect bad thermal fuse or high limit thermostat. They can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. It is best to replace both the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat at the same time and they often come from the parts supplier as a set. I'll attach a photo of a fuse/thermostat for reference. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped some. Best wishes.

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Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.(Thermal cut-off)

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Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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HI, if this has occurred, the issue may be a faulty high limit thermostat or, the thermal fuse has been tripped, due to an obstructed ventilation system(exhaust assembly).

Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

NOTE***

Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

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Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

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Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

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Ok, concerning the interuppted drying cycle due to high heat, this can be cuased by two issue. It coudl be a venalation issue. if the dryers vent duct and exuast hoses are clogged, thsi will cuased the element to reach unsafe tempreturs, in return, tripping the high limit thermostsat and shutting the dryer off in the middle of the load cycle.

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