Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling
I have a Carrier 58MPV100-20 furnace. I need to replace the blower motor module but the number on the existing one does not match anything I can find online. What is the module number I need? Who sells them?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Furnace Blower Motor Specs
That information is usually on the data plate on the furnace and on the motor itself. All you need to know now is the HP. Other than that a universal consolidator motor is an easy fix too. It can handle 1/6-1/3HP.
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
SOURCE: Carrier Heating furnace
either the gas at the outside valve is off, or the gas valve at the furnace may be off, or the switch on top of the gas valve in the furace may be off. if they are all on, then you may not be getting a call for heat from the stat to the furnace control board. check to see if you are getting a 24 volt signal from the stat to the w terminal and common terminal on the furnace board. if you are then check to see if the voltage is arriving as 24 volts to the wires at the gas valve itself . if it is then the gas valve is possibly bad. if it is not then the board is possibly bad.look for loose or broken connections on the low voltage wiring. most unusual that the board does everything else but send power to the gas valve. you need to zero in on the valve i think and start by turning off power and that should restart the sequence of operation and you can observe it step by step . if you are not getting a call for heat then the stat may be bad be sure you are in heat , fan in auto and temp pushed up to max. if no 24 volts is sent to furnace board white and common low voltage board then stat is bad. remove it if you think its faulty and jumper the white and red wires together on the subbase. that duplicates what the stat normally does. if the furnace lights its the stat. having said that i realize the stat has to be sending a heat signal or the other stuff would'nt start. so..... back to the furnace board. check that 24 volts in from stat and 24 out to valve and that will put you on your problem item. good luck
Posted on Oct 30, 2008
Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
try checking the pressure sensing switch,it has a tube that should run somewhere close to the inducer fan.sometimes this hose fills with liquids,and makes the units act funny.I don't know if you have a condensing unit or what.the furnace wont try to light if it cant tell the inducer motor is running.any induced draft unit will work this way.you can also do a temp. bypass of the pressure switch to make sure the contacts on it are closing just be sure your inducer fan is running,and you cant leave it like that its just a test.that is a safety feature you really need.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
Sounds like they wired it direct to line voltage , it should run through a sequencer or fan relay to cycle on and off , your seq./relay could be stuck closed to but unlikely being it was just repaired , call the service company back before you do anything they are responsible.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
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