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Need to replace control board 5304430812 & defrost control board 241508001 as unit stops working

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer won't defrost

savey73,
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa
supertechks

Posted on Nov 24, 2007

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IFIXALL
  • 868 Answers

SOURCE: KSRS25ILWH02

replace the optics and nothing more

Posted on Jun 02, 2008

tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Side by side unit has stopped working

turn both dials to 5 and wait for an hour, when it first conmes on they go into a defrost automatically, the defrost controller isa in the upper left hand side of the refrigerator compartment and may be an adaptive technology one that is just a circiuiot board thats about 4 by 4 and behind the area thats betwqeen the back dammper and the front of the unit. It may have fried and that wopiuld explain why your frig does not work.,

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost Heater or Main Control Board, Which one is at fault?

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.

Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.

The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: The unit stopped dispensing water, makes clicking nose

If you would like to do this yourself and save the fee of a service tech I ill tell you the motherboard and compressor start components have been affected. Just replacing the board is not always the answer. These refrigerators are sensitive to electrical surge, fan failure, compressor start component failure and eliminating the cause is the best and less expensive way to approach this, I will return later and discuss parts and I do need you to confirm your model is the GSH25JFR, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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  1. Defrost control boardIf the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  2. Main control boardA possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  3. Defrost timerIf the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  4. Defrost heater assemblyIf your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  5. Defrost thermostatAnother cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  6. Defrost sensor with fuseAnother possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/refrigerator-repair-help.html#9#ixzz2aX5nUL00
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

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[frozen heat pump coil], freon checked,contactor replaced,outdoor defrost thermstat repaced..worked all of a very cold december,temp rose to 50 degrees for 2 days,7 once temp dropped again,coil froze up...


THE ONLY THING THAT CONTROLS THE DEFROST CYCLE is the defrost thermostat and the actually defrost control board. along with making sure there is enough freon in the system to switch the unit over and move the reversing valve when it is time... if they have changed the defrost thermostat and you are positive the freon level is good the it appears you may have a bad board on the unit.... be advised the unit should frost up in cold temps and is normally to have frost built up on it then will go into defrost mode. if the unit is freezing over then yes you have a issue.
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you may have a bad defrost heater (around cold coils in freezer)

Which is shorting out the card. or some other short.

 

 

If this was helpful please rate me.
IMUFO2
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas
imufo2@sbcglobal.net

 

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In heat mode the unit should go into a timed or temp controlled defrost. If it is frosting up to the point of stopping the fan, in heat mode only, and otherwise operates properly, then its a bad defrost control.

It is reccomended that the defrost temp sensor be replaced at the same time the defrost control board is replaced. Some temp sensors are part of the board and not a seperate component, but not most.

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