Question about Maytag MDB9100A Dishwasher
My dish washer stops 4 minutes into a wash cycle and then just clicks
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: maytag dishwasher mdb56000aww
It seems that your motor on the dishwasher is going out, like mine has just done. My explanation is that it sounds like something is grinding on glass or as if a bunch of mice are making noise. Eventually, the motor will not run any more. What will happen is that the dishwasher will fill up, then make a loud humming noise, while the heating element is making the water near the heating element sizzle. Now what you have is a possible fire hazard which compounds the problem with the dishwasher. Get rid of it, take the loss and live like my grandmother used to, without having a dishwasher. That is the best advice I can give you.
Posted on Jun 07, 2008
HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE SAME MAYTAG MODEL DISHWASHER. THE PROBLEM IS WITH THE CONTROL PANEL ASSEMBLY HAVING ONBOARD COMPONENTS NOT SODERED CORRECTLY TO THE MAIN CONTROL BOARD. THESE LOOSE OR COLD SOLDER CONNECTIONS HAVE TO BE REHEATED,RESOLDERED WITH A SOLDERING IRON . THE ON BOARD COMPONENTS THAT I WAS HAVING PROBLEMS WITH WAS THE BLUE BOX LOOKING COMPONENT,SOLID STATERELAY, AND THE RAISED RESISTOR,HAS COLORED BANDS AROUND IT. THESE COMPONENTS ARE LOCATED ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD FACING THE DISHWASHER LOOKING OVER THE TOP. TO MAKE THE REPAIR, TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TO THE DISHWASHER, OPEN THE FRONT DOOR AND REMOVE THE 10 SCREWS THAT HOLD THE DOOR TOGETHER. THIS WILL ALLOW ACCESS THE THE CONTROL PANEL.. IF YOU DO NOT FEEL QUALIFIED TO MAKE THIS REPAIR USING A LOW WATTAGE SOLDERING IRON YOU CAN ORDER THE CONTROL ASSEMBLY LED FROM PARTSSELECT.COM. FOR ABOUT 100 DOLLERS. THEY ARE ABOUT THE CHEAPEST. FOLLOW THE ON SCREEN INSTRUCTIONS TO ORDER THIS ASSEMBLY.THE ASSEMBLY PART CAN BE FOUND IN THE CONTROL PANEL PARTS ILLUSTRATION. WHEN SEARCHING FOR THIS PART YOU MUST SEARCH USING YOUR DISHWASHER MODEL NUMBER. THIS INFORMATION CAN BE FOUND ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TUB OF THE DISHWASHER AFTER OPENING THE FRONT DOOR. ALSO, WHEN LOOKING FOR THIS PART IT WILL BE LISTED TWICE,AS SERIES 10, OR SERIES 24. YOU MUST ORDER THE CORRECT SERIES. THE SERIAL NUMBER ON THE SAME PLATE THAT THE MODEL NUMBER WILL PROVIDE THIS INFORMATION. IF YOUR SERIAL NUMBER STARTS WITH A 10 ORDER THE SERIES 10, WITH A 24, ORDER THE SERIES 24. WHILE YOU ARE ORDERING CHECK YOUR LATCH HANDLE, THE SIDE PIN WAS BROKEN MAKING IT HARD TO OPEN THE DISHWASHERS FRONT DOOR. ONE OTHER THING YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK IS THE FLOAT SWITCH OPERATION. MINE WAS STICKING. TO ACCESS THIS REMOVE THE 4 SCREWS THAT HOLD THE PANEL .THE FLOAT SWITCH IS LOCATED TO THE LEFT.WITH THIS PANEL REMOVED CHECK FOR ITS FREE NONSTICKING OPERATION. IT CAN BE DISMANTLED AND CORRECTED. A SERVICE SHEET IS LOCATED, ATTACHED TO THE INSIDE OF THIS PANEL.IT HAS GOOD TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION INCLUDING A AUTOMATIC FUNCTION TEST.THIS TEST PROVIDES A DIAGNOSTIC ANALYSIS THAT WAS EXTREMELY HELPING FOR ME TO DETERMINE MY PROBLEM AND CORRECT THE MALFUNCTION CONSIDERING I AM NOT A APPLIANCE REPAIRMAN. I HOPE THIS INFORMATION IS BENEFITICAL. REGARDS.
Posted on Jun 21, 2008
Change the circuit board, timer/progrsmer.
Take it out and clean contacts,
Look for burnt circuit line and solder a fine bead carefully on the circuit board, difficult. Use the pot and pan program.
Posted on May 14, 2009
If nothing obvious like blocked / obstructed outlet pipe
You need to check if the outlet pump motor in line with the outlet hose is spinning when in the outlet mode. First check if it is spinning by looking at it and see if the small fan is spinning. If it is turnning this means that it has power and the internal "impeler" that pushes the water out has become loose. Remove the pump (easy job) and repair. If it does not spin you need to determine if the 2 push on terminals have power on. If there is voltage and the motor does nut spin this indicates that the pump motor is open circuit and must be replaced.
Posted on Mar 26, 2010
SOURCE: I own a Maytag Quiet
The old soap maybe working better but I am wondering about the heating element and if it is keeping the water hot enough to work efficiently with the newer soaps....
It is more critical then ever for the water to be hot when it comes in initially and to be keept at 140 F or more during the wash and rinse cycles...
I would do some checking as to the water temperature when it fills and after it is washing towards the end of the cycle...
You may also have a problem there that is intensified by the terrible new soap chemical makeup...
Posted on Feb 05, 2011
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