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Yard Works wall mount hose reel

Gasket/washer at pivot coupling blew out. Need replacement as unit is NFG without it. No local supplier.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Maytag Washer, top load: Listed 745G Model A112 s/n A90585 TN

wrong part sold to you most electrial parts are non returnable, BE Sure to take the model and serial number off the unit when you go back, if they goofed then they have to eat the wrong part

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

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  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: window or wall mount

The differance between a window and wall mounted A/C is the mounting system.
Window units are usually smaller BTU systems they set in the window, so you do not have to cut a hole in the wall to install it.
For a bedroom say 10 x 10 you can use @ 5000 btu it plugs into a standard 120 volt electric outlet. If the room is bigger then go bigger say @ 6000 btu or so. Take your room dementions with you when shopping for a unit. sometimes they have sizing on the side of the unit box.
Wall units are usually larger units. Like whole house 18,000 btu
they slide in and out of the case and use a 240 volt seperate circuit.
Best place to shop for A/C's are Home Depot, Lowes, Sams Club, B.J.'s, and Cosco they buy in large volumeusually give a Good deal I've seen 5000 btu units as low as $89.00
Just don't drop the unit out the window when installing it
From the second floor it will void your warranty. LOL
Good Luck Phil

Posted on May 20, 2008

jerryg50
  • 1667 Answers

SOURCE: wall mounting emerson lc320em9 television

I don't know the model in particular, but most of these sets can be wall mounted if you have the screw holes for the mounting plate in the back of the set.

What I believe the tech was telling you would be that it is best to not wall mount the set. The reason is that we found that we have been seeing a higher failure rate from sets being wall mounted. This is because the surface of the wall reflects some heat back in the set, and thus causes it to internaly run warmer. This is also the same from running a set inside of a cabinet. The complete surface area behind the set being very close to the wall surface blocks cooler air circulation. It is best to run these sets on a stand that is out in the opened at least 1 foot away from any wall surface.


Jerry G.

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

CRTN
  • 716 Answers

SOURCE: High pressure hose connection blew up. Fix? or buy new?

Yes take it to napa auto parts and they can cut and attach a new end which are for hydraulics. They are crimped on and meant to hold very very high pressure. I used to use a pressure washer everyday for a living and it was a tractor rental/repair shop and we used the hydraulic fitting machine on the power washer hose all the time so rest assured.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 398 Answers

SOURCE: Can I mount a Samsung AC unit thru wall rather then window?

as long as the vents are completlyeyt covered. and cove rit in winter

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

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The washer was leaking water not sure where from But now it doesn't work. The water runs for about 20 seconds and then stops. The sensor light comes on and the lid light blinks.


Don't panic when the washing machine starts leaking water all over the floor! You can usually fix the problem yourself within and hour or two at a fraction of the cost of calling a service technician. And only rarely will you have to purchase a new machine. CAUTION! Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-0.jpg

Figure A: Common leak locations

These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.

Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!

Replace leaky supply hoses
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-2.jpg The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Replace leaky internal hoses

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-5.jpg
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.

Replace a leaky pump

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-9.jpg

Photo 1: Loose the bolts

Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.

Replace worn-out tub fittings
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-14.jpg

Photo 1: Lift the lid

Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-20.jpg Buying Appliance Parts Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is http://promotionssales.weebly.com/ find your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.

Aug 27, 2016 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The wiper motor on my 1983 Ford Ranger still works but the wipers no longer move. I think there is a failure of the mechanical linkage. Where do I go to find repair parts?


why do you think the motor still works if the wipers don't move? Can you hear the motor run or can you see a little movement when you turn the switch on?

What happens when you activate the washers?

go to a salvage yard that allows you to remove the parts yourself. Then you can see how the motor and linkage assembly comes out.


don't have 1983 info, but here is 1994:

Section 01-16A: Wiper and Washer System, Ranger/Explorer 1994 Ranger and Explorer Vehicles Workshop Manual
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Windshield Wiper System, Ranger/Explorer The windshield wipers are actuated by a permanent magnet, rotary-type electric windshield wiper motor (17504) . The two windshield wiper pivot arms (17526) and windshield wiper blades (17528) are mounted on a pivot shaft, one at each side of the windshield. The windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft (17566) are connected to the motor by windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip (17531) . Ranger and Explorer vehicles are equipped with an interval wiper and washer (IWW) system featuring a lever-type turn signal and windshield wiper switch (13K359) mounted on the steering column. The IWW windshield wiper governor (17C476) uses a relay contact to control current to the windshield wiper motor . The governor electronic circuitry controls the contact to supply current to windshield wiper motor . A rear wiper/washer system is available on Explorer vehicles. The rear window wiper system consists of a windshield wiper motor mounted inside the liftgate (40010) , an articulating windshield wiper pivot arm and windshield wiper blade , a windshield wiper/washer switch (17A553) and an inline circuit breaker. The front electric windshield washer system consists of a control switch, integral with the turn signal, a windshield washer reservoir (17618) and windshield wiper motor and the necessary windshield washer hoses (17A605) , windshield washer nozzle jet and brackets (17603) and attaching parts.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pivot Shafts and Linkage Removal and Installation
NOTE: The left and right pivot and windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip assemblies are serviced separately.
  1. Perform Steps 1 through 9 of Windshield Wiper Motor Removal as described in this section.
  1. If servicing left windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip , remove left windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft and windshield wiper blade assembly.
  1. Remove left windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip access cover.
  1. Remove left pivot nut, lower windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip and slide it out through left access opening. For installation, follow removal procedures in reverse order. Tighten nut to 10-13 Nm (7-10 ft-lb). Make sure the clip is fully seated in the windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip . Do not try to install clip with windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip on motor crank pin.
----------------------------------------------------------
Windshield Wiper Motor Windshield wiper motor are not serviceable. If worn or damaged, the windshield wiper motor must be replaced as an assembly. Removal
  1. Cycle windshield wiper blades until in straight-up position and turn ignition switch OFF.
  1. Disconnect battery and wiper motor electrical connector.
  1. Remove the right windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft and windshield wiper blade .
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Remove the right pivot nut and allow the windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip to drop into the cowl top outer panel .
  1. Remove the linkage access cover, located on the right side of the dash panel near the windshield wiper motor.
  1. Reach through the access cover opening and unsnap the wiper motor clip.
  1. Push the clip away from the windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip until it clears the nib on the crack pin. Then, push the clip off the windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip.
  1. Remove the windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip from windshield wiper motor crank pin.
  1. Remove nut and ground strap.
  1. Remove three attaching nuts from windshield wiper motor. Remove the windshield wiper motor .
Installation
  1. Position the windshield wiper motor and install the three attaching screws. Tighten to 13.6-19.0 Nm (10-14 ft-lb).
  1. Install nut and ground strap.
  1. Connect wiper motor electrical connector.
  1. Install clip completely onto right windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip. Make sure the clip is fully seated. Do not put the windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip on the motor crank pin and then try to install the clip.
  1. Install the left windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip onto the wiper motor crank pin.
  1. Install the right windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip onto the wiper motor crank pin. Pull the windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip onto the crank pin until it snaps into place. The clip is properly installed if the nib is protruding through the center of the clip.
  1. Install the right windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft and nut. Tighten the nut to 9.5-12.5 Nm (84-110 in-lb). NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.
  1. Connect the battery ground cable and turn the ignition switch on. Turn turn signal and windshield wiper switch off so windshield wiper motor will park, then turn ignition switch off. Replace right windshield wiper adapter and connecting arm clip access cover.
  1. Install the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft and windshield wiper blade assemblies on the pivot shafts to dimension X. Dimension X is the distance between the centerline of the blade saddle and the top edge of the cowl top outer panel grille. The value of Dimension X for each vehicle is given in the Dimension X chart in the Specifications portion of this section.
  1. Test the system.
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Jan 04, 2010 | 1983 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

WF448AAP Drain hose short, door swings to left, washer on right?


plumbing in the wall is usually placed according to where your unit is going to be placed,..not the case here as i/you can see,..you should be able to get a piece of hose (from private appliance store) and an "insert coupling" (has little "barbs" on it so it stays put after you clamp it) and make your extension,...don't make it to long or to tight, you don't want tension on the hose,....baby sit this "custom repair" to insure it dosn't leak, ya know, watch a couple loads go thru it's cycle,......if you can't get this happening, you can have the drain in the wall moved,....not a big job if your drain is plastic. good luck.

Jan 03, 2010 | Samsung WF448AAW 4.5 cu. ft. Front Load...

1 Answer

Wiper motor replacement


SECTION 501-16: Wipers and Washers 1999 Town Car Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Mounting Arm and Pivot Shaft Removal
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
  1. Remove the windshield wiper pivot arms (17527).
    1. Remove the nuts (one each side).
    1. Remove the windshield wiper pivot arms.
  1. Remove the LH and RH cowl top vent panels.
    1. Remove the hood weatherstrip.
    1. Remove the screws.
    1. Remove the retaining clips.
      • Disconnect the LH and RH washer hoses.
  1. Position the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft (17566) assembly aside.
    1. Remove the nuts.
    1. Remove the bolt.
    1. Position the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly aside.
  1. Remove the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly.
    1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
    1. Remove the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Motor —Windshield Wiper Removal
  1. Remove the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft (17566) assembly; refer to Mounting Arm and Pivot Shaft .
  1. Remove the windshield wiper motor (17508).
    1. Remove the output shaft bolt.
    1. Remove the bolts.
    1. Remove the windshield wiper motor.

May 01, 2009 | 1999 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

REMOVING WATERPUMP


NOTE: This procedure may be easier if the radiator and shroud is removed. If the radiator is not removed, place cardboard in front so not to damage the radiator core
  1. Open the hood and disconnect the battery. Remove the lower engine cover.
  2. Drain the cooling system. CAUTION
    When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
  3. On cars without air conditioning, remove the fan.
  4. On cars with air conditioning, remove the air pump and generator mounting bolts, then remove the fan and air pump drive belt (pivot the generator and air pump in toward the engine). Remove the fan and pulley with set plate. Remove the hoses to the pump.
  5. Remove the 6 bolts attaching the water pump and remove the water pump assembly. Clean all gasket surfaces carefully. To install:
  6. Install the 6 bolts attaching the water pump with a new gasket.
  7. On cars with air conditioning, install the air pump and generator mounting bolts, then install the fan and air pump drive belt (pivot the generator and air pump in toward the engine). Install the fan and pulley with set plate. Install the hoses to the pump.
  8. On cars without air conditioning, install the fan.
  9. Refill the cooling system.
  10. Connect the battery, start the engine and check for leaks.

Apr 02, 2009 | 1987 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Bad wiper motor on 1996 dodge grand caravan


According to the Haynes repair manual Chapter 12:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Detach washer hoses, lift the wiper arm covers and mark the wiper arm locations on the pivot shaft for later re-installation. Remove the wiper pivot nut and remove the wiper arms.
3. Remove the cowl cover (from chapter 11)
3a. Remove the wiper arms then remove the screws that hold the lower area of the cowl cover to the wiper module.
3b. Disengage the quarter turn fasteners that hold the outer ends of the cowl cover to the wiper module.
3c. Open the hood and release the wing nuts that hold the front of the cowl cover to the wiper module.
3d. Close the hood but do not latch it. Now remove the outboard screws and lift the cover up enough to get to the washer hose.
3e. Disconnect the washer hose from the right washer nozzle. Close the hood but do not latch it. Lift the cowl cover toward the windshield and off the vehicle.
3f. Installation is the reverse of removal
4.Open the hood. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector.
5. Disconnect the windshield washer hose from the coupling inside the unit. Disconnect the drain tubes from the bottom of the wiper unit.
6. Remove the wiper unit mounting bolts. (Picture appears to be three (possibly allen head) bolts)
7. Remove wiper unit.
8. Installation is the reverse of removal. Wiper blade and wiper arm adjustment is measured with the wipers parked; correct adjustment is the lower wiper arm approximately 1.5 inches distance from the cowl cover and the upper arm approximately 2.5 inches from the lower arm. Operate the wiper motor and check that the wiper motor parks when the wiper switch is OFF.

Mar 21, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan

2 Answers

VCR eats tape when rewinding


A couple of possibilities: 1. Braking problems: When VCR goes from FFWD, REW, Play to stop, there are a pair of "brake pads" engaged to stop the reels, and prevent tape spillage out into the machine. These pads, often rubber like, are on levers which contact one side of each reel. If you take the cover off the VCR, and look down where the tape is loaded, you will like see these brake assemblies. If the rubber pad is missing, or lever pivot points gummied up, then this is your issue. 2. Take up reel isn't being engaged to take up the tape on tape eject. When a tape is loaded into the machine, tape is pulled from the cartridge and threaded into play ready position. When eject mode is engaged, the tape must be pulled back into the cartridge, or you will have tape hanging out the front end of the cartridge, and may get caught on the VCR internals, or at least be mangled by the cartridge door. The often issue here is likely the idler assembly pivot point is sticky. This idler pivots, moving from the take-up reel (right reel) to the supply reel reel (left one), depending on what mode is selected. FFWD & play to the right, left for REW. If this idler is gummed up at it's pivot point, movement will be sluggish at best, and might not be engaging the right reel quickly enough to pull tape in before tape eject. This idler is sitting right between the reels down where the tape sits. A little light oil on the pivot point may be enough to loosen it up. Otherwise it might need to be removed and the old grease removed, and a drop or two of light oil applied.

Jul 09, 2007 | Mitsubishi HS-U781 S-VHS VCR

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