Question about Brother 1034D Serger Sewing Machine

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I am doing rolled edge stitching without the stitch finger. After threading the upper looper and after threading the lower looper, the lower looper entangles on the upper looper. How am I going to cure that problem?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: lower looper threader

check to make sure it is not wraping around the upper looper. just stitch without the material and you will see it. but then you must rethread the upper looper and the lower looper again in the right order. hope this helps

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

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  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: My brother PE-400 sewing quit sewing

The "race" on your machine needs adjusting. Remove the bobbin cover, bobbin, & case. What you have left is the race, it moves when you turn the large wheel on the top right of machine. The needle also moves up and down. There is a hook on the race that catches the needle thread. Try moving the race to the line up with the needle. It may take a couple of trys but it should do the trick. Also clean any threads that may be caught on or arround the race. Hope this helps!

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Brother LS-2125 Upper Thread Snapping

I had the same problem and it was so frustrating! It was happening to me because I wasn't using the right size needle. Go up a couple of needle sizes and see if that helps.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

Mongo32
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: my macine is new and i cant fix the bobbin tension

the problem is always on the other side of the fabric - if thread bunches up underneath, the top tension or threading is wrong

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: can not get the brother XL2600i to stitch the top

Make sure the needle has been properly installed - flat side to the back of the machine.

Thread the top thread with the presser foot up - always.

Make sure the bobbin thread is feeding from the bobbin spool in the correct direction and through the correct guides.

Hold onto the thread tail at the needle and lower (by hand and not the power pedal) and raise the needle to pull the bobbin thread to the top of the machine.

Take both thread tails under the presser foot and to the back of the machine before you begin to sew.

Posted on Feb 19, 2010

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1 Answer

How do I adjust tension on a Janome Harmony 9102D


Sounds like you want to do a rolled hem for a handkerchief edge, I do the following to create a rolled hem on my over locker. Take out left needle and cut and remove that thread. Open front cover and slide back lever for the stitch finger in the needle plate, this finger stops the fabric rolling under thread tension normally so you need to pull it back out of engagement. Your Janome may have a similar means to select the rolled hem or you may need to remove the stitch finger with a screwdriver, it varies between models.

Thread upper looper with wooly nylon and right needle and lower looper in matching colour thread. (You can go wooly on the bottom looper but it hardly shows so I never bother.) Disengage upper blade and move the fixed lower blade to the right to trim less, then lower upper blade back into position. Now tension, needle leave alone (5)' upper looper very loose (2-3) and lower looper tighten up to 6-7 and test stitch. You want the upper looper thread to go right underneath and the lower looper thread to disappear against the needle stitch. And the fabric to roll inside the stitching. Finesse tensions on the loopers until this is right, you may need to change blade position too, depends on weight of the fabric and how it rolls. Once this is right turn stitch length down to close up stitching, 0.8 or even 0.5 if you want full coverage. Thats it. You can use differential feed if you want a fluted rolled edge, nice on knits.

Mar 02, 2015 | Janome Harmony 9102D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

What setting are the three threads set on for a rolled hem on a singer ultralock l4sh654 and what is the lever by the plate for?


Rolled hemming on any overlocker is usually achived the following way. Right hand needle only.
Blade over to the right usually to cut wider than normal but you can vary this to suit the fabric and stitch width you want.
Thread in this needle and the upper and lower loopers. If you can source any, use woolly overlock thread in the upper looper, this fluffs out when not tensioned and covers the fabric to give the look of solid stitching. Change upper looper tension to about 2 and lower looper tension to about 6 or 7.

The lever by the plate is usually to control the little stitch finger where the stitches are formed, move it backwards and it should move back towards you?? If this happens, then you want it in the retracted (towards you) position for rolled hemming so the stitching is much smaller and the fabric can roll. Normally this stitch finger holds the fabric firm for the loopers to form the stitch over for your normal 3 or 4 thread overlock.

Now test stitch and see how it looks. Tighten the lower looper thread so it lays right beside the needle on the underside. You may need to then tighten or loosen more the upper looper, you want the upper thread to wrap all the way around to the underneath against the lower looper thread and needle.

The cut edge of fabric should roll to underneath inside your seam. Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5 or so to close it right up tight. This uses heaps of thread so I usually test everything else, then close it up at the end to minimise waste.

Hope this makes sense, good luck.

Sep 22, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

How do I create a rolled hem with this machine. I see the stitch width knob, but do I need to remove one of the threads for this?


Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.

If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.

I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

Sep 09, 2011 | Necchi 6002 Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I am trying to do a rolled hem using a singer ultralock 14sh654. Do I disengage the knife? The stitches are uneven and some are quite loose no matter how much I adjust the tension. I am positive I...


no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Jun 25, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

What is the settings for rolled hem using your overlocker


You haven't specified your overlocker make and model but some parts of the set up will be the same; you still need to consult your machine manual to find out the changes needed to the foot. Bernettes have a little switch near the blade that you flick to change how the stitch forms so it rolls.

You need a 3 thread overlock with the right hand needle (I'm assuming you have a 4 thread lock) turn the stitch length down to 0.5 so it is very closed up. And there is usually a little thread finger on the foot that needs to be changed or a switch you flick to move it back.

Then lower the tension down on the upper looper so this thread goes over the edge to the underside and tighten up the lower looper dial so this thread lies against the needle stitch.

Move the blade to the right so the fabric is cut wider than the seam that the threads are forming so the cut edge rolls underneath and is encased in the threads.

It is best to use wooly overlock thread on at least the top looper so this "fills" in the rolled edge.

If you visit you-tube and search using "Rolled Hem" or Nancy Zieman you should find some helpful videos too.

Apr 25, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Baby Lock 5280E. Can you tell me how to set the machine for rolled hem?


Assuming you mean a narrow rolled edge:
  1. Remove the left needle and thread.
  2. Open both the front and side covers.
  3. Raise the presser foot and the upper knife to the highest position.
  4. Clear the stitch fingers.
  5. Push the stitch with former release lever and remove the stitch former from the lower knife base. (Don't lose it!)
  6. Turn the stitch with adjusting dial until the "M" on the dial matches the red indicator on the needle plate.
  7. Set the stitch width length to "M".
  8. Close the covers, lower the presser foot and the upper knife.
This gives you a narrow edge. To roll the edge, increase the tension of the lower looper (the green knob) about three numbers higher than normal.

Nov 03, 2010 | Baby Lock Evolve

1 Answer

What is the correct setting for a hand rolled hem?


I do not have this brand, but thought these instructions for a 2-thread rolled edge might help -

Presser foot - Rolled Edge
Needles - Right or Left (depending on the width you want).
Stitch Width - Normal to Wider (your choice)
Stitch Length - 1 mm/left needle; 0.5 mm if using the right needle.
Differential Feed - Normal
Blade Position - Up
Right Needle Tension - Tighten
Lower Looper Tension - Normal or Loosen
2-Thread converter - engaged.

The converter may also be referred to as a subsidiary or auxiliary looper. This fits into an opening near the tip of the upper looper to "trick" the upper looper into thinking it is threaded.

The above information is from "Serge With Confidence" by Nancy Zieman. I have found this book to be more helpful than the instruction manual that came with my Babylock Imagine.

May 01, 2010 | Bernina 2500DCET

1 Answer

Instructions for threading Baby lock eclipse BLE1LX for 2 thread sergering


I have just learned this :)
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread serging.
1. Open the front cover and cutting blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading guide ( this is plate that has two holes for the threads) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove upper thread from the machine (or you can leave the cone thread on, it doesn't matter).
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion's tale. If you can't figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you'll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left - it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)
4. Close the covers. Decrease the needel tension - this depends on what the stitch length is. Stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 3.0 = L needle n/a, R needle 1; upper looper n/a, lower looper 5
stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 5.0 = L needle 0, R needle n/a, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5

Those are for a flatlock stitch - for a 2-thread rolled edge :
Stitch length: 0.5, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4.5, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5
Stitch lenght: 1.0, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4, upper lopper n/a, lower looper 3.0

If you have any questions, e-mail me at knowgodnofear@bex.net

Aug 10, 2008 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

2 Answers

Rolled hem or rolled edge


You need to disengage the cutting blade by openingfirstly opening the front and left hand side covers. pull on the larger of the two silver knobs and slide the red lever towards you. I'm not sure what the tension settings are, but I'm certain you need to reduce them a fair bit to aid in the rolling effect. I only use 3 threads when doing a rolled hem.
My description isn't too detailed but I hope it helps!

Jun 11, 2008 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

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