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How to drain water in WA8OU3 washing machine

I don't know the command on how to drain

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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eandlfan
  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine will not drain

There is a corrigated plastic hose (usually black or white) that comes out the back of the washer that should lead to some sort of drain (usually a pipe that comes out of the floor or in a recessed wall. If the washer is in a basement or place that you don't mind the water getting on the floor, remove the hose from the pipe and just set it on the floor or put the hose in a bucket. It will be SEVERAL bucket fulls. That will drain about 95% of the water. if this works, that means the pump is out. If you do that and no water or if the water just tickles out, you have a clog in the hose or the pump.

Posted on Dec 23, 2007

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jonniewalker
  • 1029 Answers

SOURCE: Wont Drain

If there is a drain issue, sometimes there is an obvious solution. Check the drain hose for any kinks, as well as checking any lint filters in or on the drain hose. Is there a lint sock on the end that's full? Perhaps the drain line itself is plugged. You will want to make sure that the house drain system is not backed up or plugged. Always make sure that the washer drain hose is above the level of water in the drain tub. Some Whirlpool/Kenmore washers make use of a side-check valve near the tub outlet which may get clogged. A standpipe should be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter, and never seal a drain hose into a standpipe. This can lead to back-siphoning. You also want to make sure that the standpipe is less than 96 inches in height.
Pump problems show various symptoms. Sometimes the pump will lock up and seize. If the motor is running, it will continue to try to turn the pump. In the case of belt-driven pumps, the belt may break or burn through. The pulley may shear off. If there is enough tension on the belt, and the motor continues to try to turn it, you may wind up with a seized motor as well. The pump itself may have seized bearings, be jammed by clothing or another object; or the impeller blades may be broken off. The usual fix is to replace the pump.
If you think your pump may be jammed, drain out your tub and remove the hoses. Look inside the hoses and see if there are any obstructions. Feel around inside the pump inlets for anything that may be jamming the pump itself. You can also use long-nosed pliers to feel around inside the pump for any items that may be causing a jam. If you haven't found a jam, and you still believe there may be a jam in the pump, you can completely remove the pump from the washer and inspect it more closely.
Occasionally, transmission gears may become worn, or some other internal part may go bad. Some older washer models have an electric-mechanical shifter. If it won't shift, it's best to call a professional appliance repair person to address this issue. If your transmission is leaking oil, there are really only two options at this point, either run it until it dies completely, or replace it now.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 127 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine will not drain all the water. If

there is always a little water left in the drum assembly when done pumping. however it is usually well below the level of the clothes basket/drum so that there is none contacting the clothes when at rest.
if you can actually visibly see water within the clothes basket/drum when the cycle is complete, then check below.
have you lengthened the drain hose beyond the standard length to reach to your taller than normal sewer/drain inlet??? if so then you're getting more water returning to the unit when the pump shuts off and if the extra hose is long enough then theres enough water returning to your tub so that the basket sits in water at rest..
if so you'll need to install a check valve to keep the additional water from going backwards into your unit. some of these units have one built into the drain hose where it connects to the pump.. i tried looking yours up via the model # listed on the 1st page but got nowhere with that number.

you could also have a restriction in your pump or drain assembly that may be slowing things down some.. can't be of more help without proper model # though..
hope this helps,
best of luck,
ttfn

Posted on Oct 25, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: washing machine doesn't drain water on rinse cycle

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

  • 6277 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I have a Candy Eclypsa Combiwash CE104 washing

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Start off with the no spin, no drain.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
Now no hot water input
This is symptomatic of a malfunctioning water control valve- the hot water one in this case. Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call to confirm that it is not something else- like the control board not feeding the correct voltage to the valve ;-0(
Not heating the water
Could be malfunctioning heater element, or could be control board again, or poor eletrical connections.
Suggest raising this with repair man ;-0(


If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Posted on Jun 14, 2011

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It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven from the flow into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

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