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I need to repair

I need to have the chains either replaced or the machine repaired Where can I go? On one, the chain is off track and way loose. This one has a battery pack. The other one is electrical and the chain is fine but just doesn't turn on. I purchased them at either Home Depot or Lowes

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  • Contributor
  • 23 Answers

The Chain being loose can be caused by not having enough tension on it. The owners manual will explain how to put the tension on your chain and properly maintain them.

Posted on Jan 12, 2015

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: I have a remington pole saw and I need to know

What Jerr isn't telling you is the link is worthless. RemingtonPower is no longer in business. Sorry
Lou

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: need new chain for remington pole saw, model

It should, I have been on this earth to long for a definate answer. Both saws have 40 drive links, are 3/8s, and a gauge of 0.050. Please verify my findings here:
Oregon Bar & Chain Selector
http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG

Have you contacted a local saw shop? With your chain as a pattern they can make a replacement in couple of minutes. Inquire by phone about a price you may be pleasantly surprised. Give them Oregon number 91VG040G (low kickback, most likely what your saw is fitted with). If you feel adept you might try a slightly more agressive chain but the odds of kick back increase. HTH
Lou

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks, chain went on easy, worked great"

dontbother10
  • 2220 Answers

SOURCE: Electric pole saw Model 106890-02. Chain oil

We are in no way connected with RemingtonPower. They are no longer in production and replacement parts are very difficult to find. Often eBay is your only source of parts. I can only suggest an Internet search for "Remington YourPartNumber". Does it make sense to invest more money in an obsolete item? Eventually a part you need will not be available. Invest in a name brand you expect to be around for at least 10 years. Name brand saws are better constructed than was Remington IMO, and need fewer parts over the long haul. Sorry. Lou

Posted on Mar 16, 2010

Mike258
  • 1498 Answers

SOURCE: chain loose

Hi there,

Chainsaw bars get loose all the time. This can create a dangerous situation.

Tightening the chain is done through the positioning of the bar. The further away from the drive gear it extends, the tighter the chain is.

The are usually two nuts holding the bar on. These need to be loosened slightly to allow the bar movement.

Depending on your model there may be a guard over them. Remove it.

Once the nuts are loose, locate the tensioning screw. It will be relatively small, located adjacent to and facing parallel to the bar.

This screw is attached to a metal lip that in turn is attached to the bar. The screw remains in one place while the lip moves up down.

Start spinning. Keep going until the chain is tight.

Tighten the Bar Nuts, replace the guard if necessary.

Now go slice some wood.

Best regards
Mike

Posted on May 18, 2010

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: need a new chain for

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Since you did not include your model number I used ZRRY10532 for the factory reconditioned 18" model or the RY10532 model.they both use the replacement Oregon Chain S62. The S is for Saw and the 62 means there are 62 links in the chain. If you count your chain links and add an S infront of that number you will get the Oregon replacement chain replacement Part number. S x links = PN. For the RY10532 18 inch chain saw you need the Oregon S62 replacement chain.

If I got your model number incorrect, count your chain links and then find the chain you need by searching using the method above.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on Apr 08, 2011

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My Stihl MS 231 is not feeding oil to the chain how do I locate the problem and repair.


The chain and bar oil should feed from the reservoir to a small hole in the bar that feeds the oil to the bottom of the chain. If that little hole gets dirt in it, the oil won't feed to the chain. To clear the problem, remove the bar, remove the chain from the bar, and clear the hole in the bar and track for the chain in the bar. I've done this while out in the woods by just using a stiff dry piece of grass to push the dirt out. Once clear, replace the chain, teeth facing the correct way, and the replace the bar, and tighten.

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Provided you have not been in an accident that has bent your frame,upper and lower triple tree, or forks, the only alignment you can make is to adjust your chain. If the the front wheel is not tracking with the back wheel you just have an improperly adjusted chain. On each side of the swing arm by the rear axle are two chain adjuster cam/wheels. The have numbered bump/stops. Both chain adjusters should be set in the same numbered bump/stop to align the front and rear chain sprockets and the front and rear wheel tracking. the adjusters are on the machine for the purpose of setting the amount of chain slack. Your chain should not be too tight or too loose. If you grab your chain in the middle and push it up and down, you should have a slack measurement of 1 1/4 inches from the bottom edge of the chain to the top edge of the chain. If the setting is off the best way to make the adjustment is to raise the rear wheel off of the ground. A race bike stand is very helpful for this and oiling and caring for your chain. Harbor freight tools sells a cheap rear stand for about $35 (buy the cheaper one piece non-collapseable stand). Pull out the cotter pin, loosen the axle bolt, turn both adjusters till you have the correct amount of slack and they are both set to the same number. Tighten the axle and recheck the slack. If you notice when spinning the rear wheel that the chain goes tight then slack, you have a stretched section of chain. If this is the case you should replace the chain and any worn sprockets at this time.

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Chain is slipping and jumping gears


okay lets ask why it broke did it get jammed?was it worn?is your front crankset or rear gearset loose with play in it?does the chain make a clicking while pedalling hard? first and last require a replacement chain because it broke for a reason.if your drive gears are loose then you will have to adjust/repair them also checking adjustment on the derailuers should be checked.
hope this helps

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The chain came off the track. When I put it back on it doesn't cut well. It seems like it's just grinding into the wood instead of cutting.


For a chain to come off the track it must be MUCH too loose. The chain should run tight on the track and not hang free at all. As it has been running loose it may well be damaged - and therefore more dangerous than a healthy chain. If I were you, I'd get it checked out professionally. Don't keep trying to use it, as it will overheat and probably damage the track as well.

Jun 27, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Can not keep chain on bar. Tried 2 different


The inside part of the chain are called drive links. I think when the chains came off the first time (loose chain?) some of these links were slightly deformed (burred). Take a flat file to the burrs on the sides of the drive links. Once repaired keep your chain properly tensioned.

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Chain adjustment
  1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
  2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
  3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
  4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
  5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
  6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH
Lou
If no burrs please repost. This has piqued my interest. I think a brand new chain will operate correctly.

Oct 31, 2009 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

1 Answer

Can not keep chain on bar. Tried 2 different


The inside part of the chain are called drive links. I think when the chains came off the first time (loose chain?) some of these links were slightly deformed (burred). Take a flat file to the burrs on the sides of the drive links. Once repaired keep your chain properly tensioned. Your saw is fitted with a chain catcher (page 9 of your manual), it did its job and kept the chain from smacking your leg (were you wearing chaps?). Burrs are often created when this happens.

cb83a5b.jpgfb16904.gif
Chain adjustment
  1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
  2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
  3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
  4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
  5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
  6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system.
You can download your "Operator's Manual" and an "IPL" (exploded parts list) here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – for use with IPL
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

Lou
If no burrs please repost. This has piqued my interest. I think a brand new chain will operate correctly.

Oct 31, 2009 | Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar

2 Answers

How to replace a timing chain 2000 chevy cavalier


I am familiar with that vehicle but generally with timing chain replacement, the engine needs full access for pulley and cover removal and in some cases the cylinder head requires removal.
Generally timing chains last so that they only need replacement at engine overhaul and it is not an economic proposition to have to replace a chain unless some relative degree of engine work is also required at that time. 

Engine timing chains generally have a tensioner on them which maintains tension, but some chains can wear significantly and cause timing cover to be "ground away" because of "slop".

If the engine is making the noisy rattle of the timing chain against the cover etc, I would schedule a top overhaul (head, machine, test and valve grind) with the chain replacement dependent on mileage with the degree of action.

Some simple simplex timing chains (type of chain similar to motor bike chain) may be replaced without dismantling the engines but I would expect your chain would be a "duplex" dual sprocket type, these are most common. 
These chains are not generally expensive but replacing them can involve a fair amount of work. 

Good Luck and hope this helps, Others will have different ideas.

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