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Hi...I've just bought a new house and, I would like to change the double light switches to double dimmer switches. There is a double switch on the ground floor which controls the ceiling lights on the entrance hall & first floor landing. On the first floor, there is another double switch which controls the first floor & second floor landings. There is a single switch on the second floor. The existing double switches have L1, L2 & L3 but, the double dimmers I bought, have L1, L2 & Com. Which cables go from the existing double switches to the new dimmer switches?

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Try this video
https://youtu.be/NOCHVZi3zXA

Posted on Apr 28, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

frcs68
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SOURCE: L1, 2 and L3 versus COMM

what kind of light switch are you replacing??? assuming house light switch???
one way or two way switch??
I have not come across the type of switch before.
L1, L2 is just label as line 1 and line 2, comm is usually refer to common (ground wire-white).
is the red wire-hot???

Posted on Oct 23, 2008

  • 3698 Answers

SOURCE: Hi...I've just bought a new house and, I would

It should be;
black wire to brass screw.
white wire to the silver screw.
bare wire to the body of the switch or ground.

Posted on May 07, 2014

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Are these remote controlled dimmers? Do you have failing batteries in one of the remotes? Or perhaps a new remote control device has been introduced in or near your house that interferes with the dimmer remote signal. I had a similar problem that occurred when my boys played with their remote controlled cars.

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The switch turns OFF hot wire to each light, while the neutral remains continuous throughout whole house.
The neutral is like the ground wire in residential single-phase wiring: both remain unbroken and continuous throughout house.
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We have a lioghtolier 600 volt dimmer switch talking to an HAI OmniPro and it stopped working. It has two other switches nearby and they work fine. The problem switch has no blue LED on when the light is...


Recycle the the dimmer switch and replace it with a new one. The dimmer switch was probably rated at 600 Watts. Therefore, 600 Watts/120 Volt which you house voltage equals= 5 amperes.
5 amps is the maximum current for the dimmer switch.

That means the voltage is 120V/240V with max current 5amp/2 1/2 amp. The HAI OminPro is drawing to much current and it's exceeding the the current limits of the dimmer switch.

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You mention a dimmer and a 2nd on-off switch.
You purchased a 'double pole' switch which I believe is a 3-way switch.

3-way switch has 3 screws (plus ground screw which will not be mentioned further)
3 screws on 3-way switch = one is dark colored, and 2 are brass colored.

You can guess. There are only 3 wires and you can keep trying different combination until both switches work. Do not change wiring on 2nd switch and sooner or later the right combination will appear.

On the other hand, electricians test wires using ordinary tester, before connecting anything.
If you want to test, it takes 3 ez steps.

Here's what I would do.
1) Look at wiring on 2nd switch.
Notice switch has 1 dark screw and 2 brass screws.
If you can identify the two wires on the brass colored screws, these are the 'travelers' and same two wires connect to brass colored screws on new switch. And then last wire connects to dark colored screw.

2) You have noted the wires carefully on dimmer, so remove dimmer, and separate wires for testing.
2nd switch is moved to down position.
We are NOT going to test wires on 2nd switch.
We are just testing wires at old dimmer.
Turn on power.

Power is on.
2nd switch is in down position.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
One and only one wire will light up the tester.
Mark this wire.

3) Change 2nd switch, and move 2nd switch to up position.
Test each wire again to bare ground wire.
Again only one wire will light up tester.
Mark this wire.
If same wire lights up tester each time, then this is the Hot wire and it connects to new switch dark screw. And the other two wires go to brass colored screws.
If a different wire lights up each time, then these two wires are 'travellers' and they connect to each brass colored screw. And the last wire connects to dark colored screw.

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1 Answer

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You're correct. The dimmer switch was not made for that fan.

The Green is ground > so you're right there too. I assume other plugs nearby are working when dimmer is on. Check that to make sure.

By your description, I assume there is NOT another switch or dimmer that connects to same light. If so, you need a 3-way switch and the following instructions are void.

I suspect when you wired the new fan, that you saw the red and small black wires in the ceiling box. Did you connect the fan and light to those wires? If so, the following information will help you wire the switch.

Your incoming Hot line is probably the larger black wire that connects to Dimmer black >>> this wire will connect to either screw on the new switch

To test Hot wire for sure: Take out dimmer and mark wires for identification. Separate wires. Turn on power and test each wire to bare ground. Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power. You'll be fine. Tester lights up on Hot wire.

Next: The smaller black and a red wires are a toss up.

Here's how I would proceed. Connect the black Hot to either screw on switch. Connect red wire to other screw. Put wire nut over small black. Turn on power. Flip switch. Check both lights and fan to see which works with red wire.

Next reverse the toss up wires. Put wire nut over red. Connect small black to switch. Check both lights and fan.

If red and small black control the light & fan, then connect them together on the same screw, and you're done.

If you want to control the fan and light separately, buy double switch, and then Hot connects to dark-colored screw on one side of switch, and red and small black connect to two different screws on opposite side of switch.

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