Question about Zanussi Ovens
The oven heats up to temperature and the thermostat light goes out. After around 45 minutes the oven turns off.
Posted by Anonymous on
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!
Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:
If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.
Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.
Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.
Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
Why is the oven temperature incorrect?
The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning
Posted on Apr 29, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: oven door zbf360x zanussi
Open the door half way, grasp it firmly and pull as hard as required using a slight side to side motion to release the hinges which are attached to the door.
There are then to nuts on the bottom of the door which when removed allows you to split the door in half.
The hinges have a little lever on them such that they can be jammed open against the door. Once the hinge hook is in the oven housing simply turn the latch the other way, stand back and have a beer.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
Could be caused by either of following;
1. Faulty thermostat.
2. Faulty thermal cut out switch. (controls power to cooling fan).
3. Faulty cooling fan (not fan inside oven).
Test thermostat by setting thermostat to low temperature like 60 oC. If oven gets much hotter then its a faulty thermostat.
To test cooling fan and thermal switch take oven out and remove top or rear panels to expose components.
When oven gets hot the cooling fan should turn on. If it doesn't then check to see if there is a mains voltage present.
If mains current exist but fan is not turning then replace fan. If mains voltage is not present then its the thermal switch.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
You will have difficulty in obtaining a wiring diadram, as they are normally only available to their own engineers.
However, from what you say about your oven, I would say that you probably have a faulty thermostat, as this is about the only thing that makes it overheat. If you can hold of an oven thermometer and establish how much it is overheating by, you may be able to compensate for this by turning down the temperature setting.
Hope this is of some assistance to you.
Posted on Dec 02, 2009
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Posted on May 27, 2010
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