Question about Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator
What would cause my fridge not to work on electric it work on propane
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most likely your heating element burned out or else the circuit board is bad. To test the heating element unplug it from the circuit board (j6 and j7 usually gold colored) take the two heating element wires and using an ohm meter make sure there is no resistance between them, if there is resistance the heating element is bad, Or can just put a plug onto the heating element and plug it into a 110 wall outlet and see if it gets hot. If it is not the heating element it is most likely the main circuit board. (between 1993-1996 dometic used a yellow epoxy filled circuit board that went out pretty quickly) if you have the yellow filled circuit board rather than the green one it is most likly the circuit board
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
does the flame ever got out if not ,the tsat is not the problem. It could be that the flame is not hot enough or the flue has a restriction
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
A bit more info is needed. What model #, and how old is it? In back, does it have a computer board (underneath a green or black plastic cover, appros 4" x 6")? Im guessing that it does, ('cause you get an error message,) Make sure that you have a good 12 volts going to the board at all times, and make sure that the glass fuses on the board are not blown. If that checks out, than its a real good bet the you have a defective board. For Americana models, you're going to need a Dometic board, and for other models, an aftermarket board will usually do. Althoiugh the OEM ones have a better chance of fixing your problem.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Check any fuses/circuit breakers in harness from battery. That battery should supply 12 volts dc to fridge lugs/terminals at bottom of fridge on outside behind vent.
If battery is good and hooked up properly but no 12 volts to fridge, then you will have to trace back to battery for broken /bad wire. If you want to test quickly, just run 2 jumper wires from battery to those 2 lugs marked + and - Battery + to + (pos)at fridge, and - battery to -Neg at fridge. That should allow you to run it on propane or 12 volt. Remember, running it on 12 volts will kill that battery pretty quick, unless it's being charged. When you are plugged in, the converter supplies the 12 volts to your fridge, as well as should be charging your battery.
Posted on Jun 22, 2010
The flue baffle was the solution that worked for me as well. Below is a response I posted to a similar post.
I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.
I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.
The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.
I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.
Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.
By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:
Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.
Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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Mar 24, 2012 | Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator
According to the manual the following is the most likely items to cause that failure. But since it is only in the frigerator section and not the freezer section it could be the lower circuit board.
Lower Circuit Board
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