Question about GE GTDP300EMWS Dryer
I can smell the heat, so the element is good. The drum turns so the motor is good.
You give no information regarding make or model, but I believe you will find that the "run switch" on the motor is not working. This is a centrifugal switch located in or attached to the motor. With make and model, one could track down the part and replace it.
Posted on May 08, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
SOURCE: GE dryer DDE5300 runs only
Broken belt. The safety switch will not allow the motor to stay running if the belt is broken. Open the door and look up at the 12 oclock position and their will either be 2 or 4
screws holding down the top. These must be removed and then you can get
the top to come up(or off on newer models). Once you have the top up
you can get to the screws which hold the front on (2). Then you simply
remove the front and get it out of your way. On some these dryers there is a
friendly rear hatch to help you replace the idler.
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Posted on Jan 09, 2009
SOURCE: GE DRYER HEATING ELEMENT
Yes, the whole drum needs to be removed:
Before you go trough this make sure you know for sure your elements need replacement by checking for continuity at both element terminals.
Make sure you do the same with your high limit thermostat on housing.
How to remove the drum?:
Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you begin to remove the drum. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Pull your dryer out from the wall. Behind it, on the bottom, you will find a lower panel that will give you access to the unit's belt tensioner (also known as an idler pulley arm). Remove the screws holding this panel in place, and then remove the panel itself. Reach inside and release the belt tension by removing the belt from the motor pinion.
Older GE dryer models have a small drum bearing inspection plate in the center of the back of the dryer. This drum bearing inspection plate provides access to the dryer's circlip (also known as an e-ring). This clip holds the rear drum shaft in place. Newer models do not have this circlip or the drum bearing inspection plate.
If yours is an older GE model with an inspection plate, remove the plate now. It will be held in place with a single screw. With the plate removed, you will be able to see the drum support shaft and the e-ring (circlip) holding the shaft in place. Use a small screwdriver to remove the e-ring. You may also want to use a magnet to keep the circlip from falling into the dryer. You will also find several metal and nylon shims between the bearing and the e-ring, inside the bearing, and between the bearing and the drum. Take careful note of how they come off so that you will be able to put them back on again in the right order.
Now remove the front panel of the dryer. There are a couple of different ways this is accomplished. Whichever method you use is dependent upon your model. Some older models have two spring catch clips under the cabinet top, one on the left side, and one on the right side of the front. Use a putty knife, or some other flat and thin object to wedge in under the cabinet top. Release both spring catches and lift the cabinet top off the dryer. In some newer models, there will be screws joining the cabinet front panel to the cabinet top. You will have to open the door in order to find these screws. Once they are found, remove them and then slide the cabinet top forward and lift it off the unit.
Next, there are two screws located in the bottom of the front panel, one in each corner. Loosen these, but do not remove them just yet. Locate and remove the two screws at the top inside of the dryer's front panel. Again, there is one screw in each corner. Proceed to remove the other two screws you have just loosened. Disconnect the door switch wires and then lift the front panel off your dryer. With the front panel removed, lift the drum and slide it out of the dryer.
NOTE: In some models, you will have to remove the dryer drum glides before you can remove the drum. Also, now that the interior of your dryer is completely exposed, it might be a good time to vacuum out all of the dust and lint that has built up in there.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
sounds like your motor start capacitor is defective, its usually mounted on the motor case and is cylindrical in shape and will have two wires coming out one end,unplug the unit and then take an insulated screw driver and short the two terminals of the cap before touching in case it still has some residual charge remaining
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
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