Question about Worldwide 1993 Chevrolet G20 5.7L Alternator - 100 Amps

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No power glowing right manifold makes alot of popping under load wont go up hills

New knock sensor cap wires plugs

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This sounds like you have a clogged cyt.convertor it is in your exhaust system. when it is clogged it will cause things in the exhaust like the manifold to heat up to the point of turning red. it also will cause a lack of power in the engine. you can drill a hole in the exhaust before the convertor like 3/8 hole. then see if your power will return. I think it will but if not just have hole welded

Posted on May 08, 2014

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My 87bronco wit 302 efi runs but its rough it seems to not want to pull out it starts to miss and pop out talepipe its don't have power to pull hill it wants to cut out its got new plugs n wire new...

If you have changed all that, look for vacuum leaks, or there could be a sensor thats bad, remember the obd1 wont capture codes and save them, I would start with hoses then to MAP sensor

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Glowing manifolds

to much fuel into the exhaust manifold your converter could be causing a restriction have you lost power is your check engine lite on is this an older car with a smog pump sometimes with a smog pump it will push the unused fuel thru the manifold an burn off causing the manifolds to glow

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How to repalce a knock sensor on my 2004 gmc yukon

Hi welcom to fixya. A defective knock sensor may cause engine detonation or reduced spark advance and fuel economy. When a knock sensor is removed and replaced, the sensor must be tightened to its specified torque. If the knock sensor is installed tighter than it should be, it may become too sensitive and provide an excessively high voltage signal, resulting in more spark ****** than required. When the knock sensor is installed looser than it should be, the knock sensor signal will be lower than normal, resulting in engine detonation.
To replace the knock sensor:
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  • Then, unscrew the sensor.
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  • Reverse the procedures to install the part.
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P0442 dtc for 2004 chevy tahoe gas cap or knock sensor 2??

common problem. replce the gas cap first easy and cheap. if you drive where it is wet alot and or you get pine needles on your truck the knock sensor rust. it is under the intake manifold. not an easy job but can be done in 4 hours. replace both as a set.

Dec 30, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe

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At 2900 rpm's in park or going up a hill at 55mph it acts as if it coughing.

Check the exhaust flow coming out of the tail pipe.The catalitic converter could be cloged. Also renew the fuel filter every 35000 miles.

Oct 29, 2009 | Lincoln LS Cars & Trucks

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Can you show me on screen exactly the location of the knock sensor part #22060-30P00 8D SENSOR A and Oxygen sensor part # 22690-40U06 8D, HEATED O,(FR,RH), sensor assy-02, #1 bank, located before the...

gpk722000: the knock sensor is located under the intake manifold.
If you are standing in front of the car, look to the right of the oil filler cap and go more to the center of the valve cover. Now, if you look carefully below the fuel rail, you may be able to spot it and for sure, the wires coming from it.You will have to remove the plenum and the intake manifold to get to the Knock sensor.
In reference to the oxygen sensor: It is located on the side closest to the oil pan of the exhaust manifold as it points toward the floor. Nissan references the "right" bank as the one closest to the radiator,
Are you sure you need these parts and are not just throwing parts at symptoms? Sometimes even codes that are scanned and pop up do not necessarily mean a part is bad. An oxygen sensor as an example: I use my scanner, which is a lot more sophisticated than Auto zones, and it better be, for the 8 grand + I have spent on it. With it, I can actually watch the sensor operating. The sensor is a miniature voltage generator. If the heater to the sensor isn't working, it could be that it is not getting power to run the heating element, thus the code will pop up as a sensor problem.
If you bought the sensor from the dealer, you would have paid $164.65 plus tax for a part you didn't need!
The same is true with the knock sensor! Make sure you have a bad part and not a situation where a code is being thrown because of something else. Be honest. WOULDN'T YOU BE A LITTLE HOT AROUND THE COLLAR IF YOU WENT THROUGH AL THE TIME AND EXPENSE OF PULLING THE PLENUM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD JUST TO FIND OUT THAT THE SAME CODE WAS THROWN AGAIN WITH THE NEW SENSOR YOU INSTALLED?
I don't mean to rain on your parade, I just feel getting you a little damp is better than you getting soaked later HUH?
Good Luck.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Apr 09, 2009 | 1997 Nissan Maxima

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Knock sensor by-pass

Only if it was that easy my friend you need to get to the plug and it deep under the intake manifold. I just did one on 1999 QX4 its alot of work. You will need intake gasket and the plenum gasket. Good Luck.

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Knock sensor location

The knock Sensors are located under the Intake Manifold at the top of your engine. The top will have to be taken off along with the intake manifold. Knock Sensors in past silverados used to have a problem with leaking water that corroded the sensors from washing the engine. Most times when you go to replace the knock sensor you will have to replace both along with the wiring harness that includes the the gaskets the knock sensors are surrounded by. After that you have to check the resistance to make sure you dont have any problems and then reinstall all parts along with a new intake manifold gasket. A good mechanic can do this for you in a day and charge you around $400. If you try to go to some place like a chevy dealer you will pay over $800. This is from experience of just replacing mine 2 weeks ago.

Dec 23, 2008 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado

2 Answers

1988 f-150 engine knock under load

If I remember correctly, that vehicle may have had a knock sensor, depending on which engine. A quick drive to parts store and ask if they have one, will help you identify & confirm whether your particular engine has one. Another thing I remember is that the 5.0L with O.D. were very often carboning up inside the engine causing "Ping/Rattle" under load & even caused the transmission to shift in & out of overdrive hard & more often at those times. Had older fellow driving it and it very rarely went over 50mph, so it happened quite a bit. Would always find at least 1 or 2 plugs carboned up pretty bad, maybe the odd bad plug wire, and when replaced, pinging & hard, erratic shifting would disappear & run smooth. Just too low of RPM's when at normal driving speeds of 50 mph to clean out the carbon. Anyway, if trouble codes don't indicate knock sensor problem, or other, then I would pull the plugs & take a good look at them for carbon. If they're carbon covered, 1 or 2 or more, I'd be tempted to spray some combustion chamber cleaner into the throttle body as directed on can, and clean it out good, with old plugs still in, then replace plugs with new & see what you get.

Dec 13, 2008 | 2007 Ford F-150 Harley Davidson

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