Have a 1998 S70 volvo and it has a broken right outer tie rod...

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

Jim, this is not a hard job but you must do it right. I suggest you purchase the Chilton Manual for your car. Before you take it apart mark the location of the outer tie rod ends so you can have the toe-in at least close when you reassemble. You might want to replace the outer tie rod ends at the same time. If i am buying a rebuilt unit i always try to get a "A-1 Cardone complete unit" with the inner tire rod ends already factory installed.

did you replace all the parts your self or did you rely on the mechanics advice and paid for what he said it needed . Unless you really flogged the car I suspect that there was something going on and many of the parts may have needed replacing. For instance struts have an insert and it is not necessary to replace the whole thing including springs .

Play in the steering wheel is likely from worn tie rod ends. Have your inner and outer tie rods checked. The outer tie rods are connected to the rod ends coming out of the rack on each side, and are connected to the wheels. The inner tie rods are not visible-but are on the rods under the protective boots on each end of the rack and pinion assembly.
You may need a new rack assembly, but first check if you just need new tie rods.

This is a rack and pinion leak which is for the steering...The only thing you can do is change the complete rack component to stop the leak.If it keeps leaking and you let it get low you can also cause the power steering pump to start leaking...This will cause major steering failure !
Some racks will leak slowly for a long time and may never get bad enough to swap for a new one but it is not worth taking the chance....But if you keep a close eye on it and cant afford to change it you can save the system by keeping fluid in it...It may not leak but maybe a pint every month..It is still the weakest link at the steering system....They are not cheap and neither is the labor......
However ....the new one comes loaded.
I hopethis helps ........................................Metalpoet

the inner tie rod is the joint right at the end of the rack,inside the gaiter/boot,the outer is called the track rod end.

it is the one connected to rack and pinion. there are two types inner and outer tie rods. Inner tie rod is The one connected closest to rack and pinion. Outer tie rod is the one connected to steering knuckle.

The book calls for about 5 hours labor with a lift, air tools, and experience. It's a tough job. Here are a few tips, Take the lines loose from the rack; not the pump. With the tires off, Remove the nuts from the outer tie rods.Run the nuts back on the tie rods stud and hit the steering knuckle where the tie rod's stud goes through.This will free the stud. Remove the steering shaft from the rack.(take the bolt all the way out.Remove rack mounting bolts. Twist,pull ****,and fight the rack out the side of the car with the most room. The new rack will have inner tie rods already installed. Make sure the new rack is centered.(Turn left then right count the turns then center same # of turns from left to right). Count the threads or measure from the outer tie rod's jam nut to the last thread on the inner tie rod.(you can leave the jam nut in place and take the outer tie rod off and measure from the jam nut to the end of the rod.)Install the outer tie rods. Replace rack in car. hook up steering shaft.Bolt up rack. Hook up lines. Add fluid and work rack back and forth to bleed air. recheck fluid. Have it aligned. (or just take it to a shop.This job is going to be a nightmare!!!)

pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck

If this is a rack and pinion type steering, in order to remove the inner tie rods you will first have loosen the jam nut at the outer tie rod end,next unbolt the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle, unscrew the outer tie rod end off (be sure to count how many turns to remove), next remove the inner bellows boot (black boot) from the tie rod / rack and pinion, next is to unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack assembly (the do make a tool for this to make it easier) but if you do not have the tool,you can sometimes use a big pair of channel locks or a big enough wrench to fit on the fitting on the inside of the inner tie rod, and just unscrew the inner tie rod (normal left=loosen, right=tighten). Hope this helps. Would also recommend having it aligned after you are finished.