Removing rod from Clayton Mark freeze proof hydrant
I have a Clayton Mark hydrant inside my unheated barn. Whenever the hydrant is turned on, water runs from somewhere inside the hydrant (underground), even if I have a shutoff on the hose end. I am trying to pull the rod to inspect it, and can get it almost all the way out, but it stops near the end and will come no farther. Shouldn't I be able to remove this rod without removing the entire head and without digging it up?
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you can leave it turned off emptied in the unheated cottage. but i would not reccomend letting it run or stay with water in the tank. as water expand when it freezes. and will break the tank. also . dehumidifiers do nothing in freezing condition other than waste energy. so empty the tank and store it for the winter.
No, you don't need to know how deep they are.
Usually the rubber tip called a plunger is all that needs to be replaced.
You'll need to know your model number or easier is to just bring the old one with you to the store.
On this page is an excellent diagram of a Clayton Hydrant.
Loosen the packing nut at the bottom of that rod that goes into the pipe/handle. Go to an autoparts store and buy a slide hammer. Unhook the handle from the rod and connect the slide hammer using any bolts etc that you have. Use the slide hammer straight up to free the rod. Tighten the packing nut back down to stop leaks, or DIG the whole thing up.
I assume that you are refering to a wall mounted hydrant. If that is the case, most do have a bibb washer at the end. You have to remove the packing nut and then the stem to get to it. Some brands you can do this while the handle is still on. Hope this helps.
Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.