Question about Estate Washing Machines
We also just replaced the heating element of our dryer. I'd like both of our appliances replaced.
Posted by Anonymous on
Washer fills with water and overflows:
The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).
The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Also another trick to check the water valve, is to first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i am a retired engineer of 20 years, and its about a year since i worked on combination washer/dryers but if the heater elements fine and power comes from timer there must be cut out somewhere around where it should warm up, look all round the machine one may be hidden or hard to spot there maybe about 3 one of them one of them could be a trigger device (you can press a button to reset it) that style is a very small cube about the size of a sugar lump with2 spades on it, others look like a small flat oval or round shape the size of a five pence piece with 2 spade wires on them, remove the plug from wall and remove these spades and check the contacts for continuity, you need not remove from machine to do so, no circuit + no heat, replacement item not expensive, thats where to start based on the information given, check the sensors you mention again, it sounds like your so close, good luck and work safe
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
remove the back, the element is at the bottom of the drum tis maybe a split cabinet, where the lid comes off the it splits down the middle like cracking an egg, loads of screws, hard to describe, also 2 at bottom at the side in the middle, behind 2 plastic lugs, when removed the back half of the cabinet comes away, not an easy job until you have seen it done if you really are stuck try and send me an e mail address and i will send you a drawing, then you will see its easy, i am an engineer of 20 years and done loads, its easy job to do once you know how to split the cabinet
Posted on Oct 07, 2007
Sorry I'm way late with this but I've only just noticed it. Unplug the machine from the mains! Remove the lid (with a torx screwdriver) and you'll notice a small circular device with 2 leads attached on the top of the machine, in the centre there's a small button, press it and it should click......you've fixed it This is a thermal cutout safety device designed to switch the drying heater off if it becomes too hot. The probable cause for this is that you've over filled the machine and the air didn't circulate freely. as a rule of thumb, dry 1/2 as many clothes as you wash.
Posted on Apr 26, 2008
It sounds like the water valve is starting to go. i would get a tech out just to make sure.
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
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