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Why my whirlpool duet dryer wont heat model wed8300sw1

Wont heat and inspected the heating element and there are no breaks

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  • Contributor
  • 26 Answers

Are the thermal fuses ok? If you're in the back of the machine clean out all the oose, lint, fluff or whatever that causes the heat build up.

Posted on Jun 09, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: Newer Whirlpool Dryer Heat Element keeps breaking

  • clean out the dryer vent make sure hose behind dryer not pinched close ck the temp comeing out bac k dryer should be around 160

Posted on Mar 06, 2008

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer is scorching clothes

there is a sensor in the exhaust line in the dryer, near the motor. this tells the heating element to shut off when it gets to a certain temp, either during reg cycle or if the exhaust gets clogged, it is meant as a safety measure, but it sounds like yours is bad so the heating element never shuts off. it is not an expensive part and easy to replace

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool GEW9200LW0 Not heating

Hi
You need to remove the back panel first then with a multi meter the easiest way is to put the meter on continuaty test (beeps when contact is made then with the dryer switched of and unplugged put one probe on the one side of the element and the other on the other side if it beeps then your element should be ok if not one of two things (1) Your element is blown or (2) there should be a fuse around the area of the back support plate it may be a normal round fuse or a ceramic round fuse or what looks like a brown rectangular piece of plastic with a wire out each side test the fuse in the same way as you tested the element if blown replace if not then put in a element.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: My whirlpool dryer (Duet) will not heat. What

If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

If you need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Dec 23, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer ( gew9200lw1): no heat

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

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1 Answer

Whirlpool duet dryer wont heat model wed8300sw1


check for 220 volts at dryer it will not heat on only halfe breaker, check heater for continuity and all the thermostats and sensors

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Why wont whirlpool duet dryer model WED8300SW1 heat?


Is the dryer gas or electric? But you can also try cleaning the vent tube the pipe that goes outside also the pipe that goes into the dryer it's a good chance it's full of lint.

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I would suspect a heating element on this model first. Unplug UNIT remove three screws at bottom of toe kick panel and remove unplug heating element check for continuity at terninals of heating element it will be the first two you will see in front

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Replace heating element for Duet Dryer GEW9200LW1


First disconnect the power to the dryer by unplugging it from the wall. Then remove the 3 screws on the lower panel of the dryer. This should expose the heating element in a metal housing on the right side of the dryer. Disconnect the 2 wires going to the heating element and slide it out of the housing. The heating element part number is 3387747.

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The dryer works but there is no heat


If the breakers are okay and you have power to the dryer the problem would be one of two issues.

The first and most likely is the thermal cut off. This is a small temperature activated fuse that will trip if the air flow through the heater is poor, this is usually due to a plugged lint filter or restricted vent pipe between the dryer and outside.

The second is the heat element itself has gone bad. You can measure it with an ohmmeter or physically inspect it for breaks. The image I have attached shows both. The T cut off is part 47 and the element is part 14 both visible with the lower panel taken off. The lower panel has 2 screws visible while laying on the floor looking straight at the panel.

The part numbers for the components are 279973 (cut off kit) and 3387747 (heater)

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Whirlpool Duet Dryer is scorching clothes


there is a sensor in the exhaust line in the dryer, near the motor. this tells the heating element to shut off when it gets to a certain temp, either during reg cycle or if the exhaust gets clogged, it is meant as a safety measure, but it sounds like yours is bad so the heating element never shuts off. it is not an expensive part and easy to replace

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