Dryer is heating but but the blower for air out not running
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Oasis Dryer 6705 not start
I take the timed approach with appliance problems. If they occur 10 years after purchase, I buy a new one. If five years, I call a repair service and measure the cost of repair against the purchase of a replacement. If one year or less after purchase, I pile the expensive, offending, useless lump of an example of the decline of American workmanship into the back of my pickup and push it out on the doorstep of the store where I purchased it.
I find this method to be the most cost-effective and least troubling. And costs me about the same as calling the repair service.
In fact, right now I'm loading up my Kenmore Elite Oasis 6705, purchased March 13, 2007, (note that the problem began one month AFTER the warranty ran out) in the back of my pickup and I will make at quick stop at Sears to push it off the back of my truck (I find if I don't stop, but keep the truck rolling it makes for a much louder and attention grabbing drop off) then find the nearest hardware store so I can purchase some strong nylon line to string across my backyard so I can dry my clothes. I also purchase a bit of extra line so that I have enough to string up any Sears or Kenmore representatives who might stop by to inquire about the appliance they found on their doorstep.
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite dryer Model:110.C60952990 almost no heat.
Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.
A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.
Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.
Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.
In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.
If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: kenmore elite 110 62974100, it heats up and the
kenmore dryer elite he model 110- runs but has no heat
SOURCE: kenmore elite elec dryer, 110.64972300. runs no heat
Pull one wire off the element and start the dryer in a heat cycle . Check power from that wire to the cabinet . Touch the meter to the terminal you pulled that wire off of , and check that voltage . You cannot get correct voltage by checking across the element . Trace the wire NOT getting 120 volts . It will either go to the timer or motor . It will lead you to the problem .
SOURCE: need to disassemble a kenmore elite oasis dryer
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1
Disconnect your Kenmore Oasis washing machine from its power source. Make sure that your washer is unplugged before beginning to disassemble it.
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Remove the screws that hold the control console to the top of your Oasis washer. In some Kenmore Oasis models, the two screws may be covered by plastic end caps. After removing the screws, set them aside until you are ready to replace them.
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3
Flip the console up, back and out of the way.
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Locate the cabinet clips on the top of your Kenmore Oasis washer. These clips are located toward the back of the washer top and would be hidden by the console if it were not currently flipped up.
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Slide your screwdriver underneath the metal cabinet clips. Wiggle the screwdriver back and forth to gently pry the cabinet clips free.
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Disconnect the group of colored wires that plug into the top of the washer from the control console. These wires control the lid switch on your Kenmore washing machine. To disconnect, grasp the white plastic clip and pull gently.
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Remove the washing machine cabinet. Tilt the cabinet towards you, and then lift the entire cabinet up and off of its platform.
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The first suggestion I have for you is to simply run an Air Fluff cycle with no heat.
If the Air Fluff cycle runs okay then the problem is most likely with the thermistor.
You can try to run the dryer with the vent hose off and see if there is a difference.
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