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Good for you replacing those seals. Not trivial, I suspect.
Does your DW have a positive latch closure or does it just close without a latch?
If the opening of your unit has become distorted due to gradual settling, even a new seal won't work properly. Look carefully and make sure the unit is "square" in the enclosure. If not, use the leg adjusters to correct the situation.
Also, when you replaced the seal, you no doubt cleaned the door thoroughly, since debris can accumulate (especially along the bottom of the door) and interfere with closure.
Use a flashlight for a thorough visual inspection!
you need to remove interior trim panel and removed 4 or 5 nuts to remove the license plate light assembly to gain access to the pushbutton switch. the latch asy could be back if it don't open the hatch
Full closure of a microwave door is a serious safety item. Check the door for full closure. Is there anything in or on the hinges that might resist full closure. Check the latch mechanism for foreign objects even food on the latch. Also check around the sealing point around the entire door and mating seal. Closure should be a distinct snap.
Seems to be a faulty door latch...it wants to start but the computer thinks the door is still open and wont allowing it to continue, thus turning off. Try playing with the door latch before opening it up and looking within the latch.
The owner's manual will tell you step by step how to program it. Normally you would follow these steps (with the engine off):
1. Press and hold down the two outsid buttons releasing only when the indicator light begins to flash.
2. Position the end of your hand-held transmitter about 1 to 3 inches away from the buttons while keeping the indicator light in view.
3. Simutaneiously press and hold both the desired button and teh hand-held transmitter button. Do not release the buttons until the indicator light flashes slowly at first and then rapidly. Then releas both buttons.
4. Press and hold the newly-trained button and observe the indicator light. If the indcator light stays on constantly, programming is complete and your garage door should activate when you press the button.
Just use a screwdriver to fit into the area where the latch part lock onto the bar, pull the handle you use to open it while prying/pulling the screwdriver & the jaws will open again to allow it to close.
you have a problem with your primary hood latch, your secondary latch keeps it from flying up into your windshield. inspect the pri. latch, it may have stuck and won't close. a thorough soaking with a good penetrating oil usually frees it up. if not you may have to replace the latch.
It sounds as though one of the rods (the one leading from the inside door handle to the latch, called the release rod. The other is called the lock rod) has slipped out of the latch at the door closure. Since you have removed the door liner (and the plastic skin, I assume) you should be able (with your window all the way down) to see what the situation is through the access hole near the lock/latch portion of the door. If the rod that hooks into the inner door handle doesn't feel as though it is connected to anything (when you pull it toward the front of the car) then the other end of that rod (the latch connection) has either broken or simply slipped out of the hole that it goes through (and may have fallen down some). There is normally a plastic rod retainer or something of that sort at both ends of that rod, to keep the rod in the holes it's supposed to go through. Sometimes they break of work loose. Take a careful look and you will probably be able to see if that is the problem. You say that the lock works. Does the outside door handle work? If so, that tends to indicate that there is nothing wrong with the latch itself.