Question about AT&T Cell Phones
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cect p168C will not power on
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
Had the same problem, turned out it was due to a faulty capacitor on the inverter board, 680uF 25V (105 celsius rated). Simple to fix once you have the unit dismantled and the correct replacement part. Two screws hold the shroud on, but you need to be careful with an (old) credit card levering it off.
Unit is now working fine.
Posted on Oct 23, 2008
SOURCE: Can't restart, can't connect
I had a similar issue w/lacie ethernet bigdisk 1TB. Couldn't access drive, found that it was making the clackety clack drive death sound and was hot to the touch. Powered down and tried to restart but no blue light, apparently dead. It always ran hot. Pulled drives and connected directly to computer w/sata connector, drives tested good. Put all back together but still didn't work. Put in freezer overnight, pulled out and hooked up - was able to get blue light to come on but nothing else, no ethernet lights. Strange, the blue light would come on when I plugged the unit in, I didn't have to press the button, nothing wrong inside of case, but unit not really functioning. Also, as you said, I could only turn the light off by unplugging. FIX: As a last resort, I pulled the circuit board, baked it in the oven at 360 degrees F for 15 minutes, preheat oven to 360, immediately took the board from the oven to the freezer for 15 minutes. Put back together and the dang thing works perfectly now. I soldered the fan to the internal 12v line so it runs continuously and now it runs very cool. My guess is that the controller had a cold solder joint somewhere. Hind sight says I should have returned it to Lacie for a new one, I think they would have worked with me even though I opened the case.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
dustcore025, Need a little more info here. Do you know age of monitor? Was it or did it display a "perfect' image on it the day before? Is it under warranty? How far are you willing to go to try and repair this thing? Do you know how to "part" the snap together plastic back cover from the bezel, after removing the pedestal? This sounds to me like a Switch-mode-power-supply or Inverter problem that occurs when some Electrolytic Filter Capacitors get a little bit TIRED of being constantly subjected to high temperatures near heatsinks that are used to keep semiconductors within operating limits. You can determine how bad this may be if you can do a test and remember what happens. Here is what to do. Make sure PC is fully booted displaying WIN desktop or some other screen. Next, with someone to keep hitting the CTRL or SP bar key every 20-40 seconds while you reconnect both cables of your MM17 back to the PC video port and ac outlet. Now try to turn on the monitor and note exactly what you see and for how long. Did it have a sharp clear image, even for 1-2 seconds? did the screen go black? OK! Next thing is to shine a bright flashlight onto the screen 2 inches away from where you know there was something a few seconds ago. Try it at different angles and not if you see anything. get back to me with results of test. I'm louie12fix on fixya or lmistyrel @ aol.com BYE for now.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
I have had my WS-65511 fail like this, first at 4 years, second 2 weeks later, then 3rd time yesterday (4/14/2009). In past, the tech replaced a thermal sensor p/n 299P313010A (but Mitsubishi says that part is not for WS-65511 and that it does not have a thermal sensor - go figure). It is a white rectangle with about 30 pins in 2 rows and is soldered onto a board in the TV. List price is about $25. Might be your problem.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
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