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Re: the tie end rod will not budge.
You need what is call a pickling fork to remove tie rod ends. If you have a small enough jack you can jack up the tie rod end from the bottom putting the jack under the tapered bolt. Jack it up and put a good amount of pressure on it and hit the knuckle with hammer where the tie rod goes through the steering knuckle. You may be able to rent a pickle fork, or they sell for around $20 dollars.
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Loosen all nuts and use some penetrating oil if tough. Sometimes some heat on the nuts will allow them to budge. If you mean getting the tie rod out of the steering knuckle, then use a good 3 lbs hammer and hit the knuckle where the tie rod is wedged into. dont go crazy, but a good solid even hit until it comes loose. The vibrations from hitting will allow the tie rod to pop out like nothing. may take a few hits depending how hard and how long the part has been in there. Hit the knuckle inline the the main part of knuckle to prevent breaking off the ear. do not hit 90 degrees of how the knuckle sits, the ear may break if you go too hard.
lift and secure the vehicle , remove wheel . pull the cotter pin out of the tie rod end and remove the nut. there is a flat spot on the large piece of cast that the tie rod end goes into, strike that flat spot nice and hard (may take several strikes) and the tie rod end will vibrate out . remove the tierod end from the tie rod BEING SURE TO COUNT THE TURNS it take to take it off. screw the new tierod end on the same amount of turns... and slip the end thru the hole... tighten 'er up and put a new cotter pin in ... put the wheel back on and thats it.
1 PUT ON YOUR EMERGENCY BREAK, LOOSEN THE WHEEL NUTS ON THE FRONT WHEELS,JACK UP THE CAR AND REMOVE THE FRONT WHEEL. WITH SOME YELLOW PAINT ,MARK THE THREADS WHERE IT SCREWS INTO THE TIE ROD END SO YOU KNOW HOW FAR TO SCREW THE NEW ON ONTO. TAKE OUT THE COTTER PIN AND REMOVE THE CASTLE NUT FROM THE ROD. USE A PRY BAR TO SEPERATE THE BOLT FROM THE TIE ROD END. ONCE SEPARATED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE UNSCREW THE OLD TIE ROD END OFF THE SHAFT..TAKE THE NEW ONE AND SCREW IT BACK ON ONLY TO THE YELLOW PAINT MARK THAT YOU MADE ON THE ROD EARLIER. THEN JUST REASSEMBLE THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT APART. MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE THE NUT TO 50 LBS.AND BE SURE TO USE A NEW COTTER PIN ON THE CASTLE NUT..
To replace the boot first you have to remove the outer tie rod end form the spindle asembly. You will need a pair of wire cutters to grab the cotter pin that holds the nut in place. After the nut is removed whack the spindle where the tie rod goes into it with a ball peen hammer and the tie rod end will pop right out. Do not hit the tie rod end on the threads or you will have to buy a new one. Now you have to seperate the outer and inner tie rod ends. There is a nut holding the two tightly in place and a notch in the inner tie rod end to put a wrench on so the inner will not spin when you spin off the outer tie rod end. Mark the threads before removal so you can put it back where it was adjusted before. Loosen the nut and spin off the tie rod end. Now for the boot. There are two clamps on the boot you need to remove a small clamp and a large clamp. With the wire cutters grab these clamps and wrok them off. The new boot will come with new clamps. Always replace the clamps. Now just slide the boot off. You will need to remove the lock nut to change the boot so make sure you mark the threads on the inside so you do not wipe the mark off when you remove the nut. Now just reverse the process to reassemble. Be sure to put it back where it was adjusted before. Make sure to use a new cotter pin. When you reinstall the nut back on the outer tie rod end it is important to tighten it about one turn past snug and line up the cotter pin hole by tightening the nut do not back off the nut to align the cotter pin or it will come loose and ruin the spindle. Not that was not so hard was it. Thanks for visiting the site.
Locate the tie rod end, and remove the nut that hold it in place.
Using a hammer and prybar, lodge the prybar under the tie rod end, and against something else, and pry up gently from underneath, while striking the area of the knuckle that it connects into with appropriate force. The tie rod end will dislodge. There is also a tool for this, if you'd rather use it. It looks like a tuning fork, and is called a "tie rod remover". Its use is self-explanatory. You can rent a kit to do this from AutoZone or Advance, the rental is about $50, IIRC, and you get your money back when you return the tool.
After having done that, loosen the locknut on the back of the tie rod, and count the number of threads that you have to turn the tie rod end to get it off from wherever it's installed. This is VERY important.
Once the old one is off, thread the new one on EXACTLY the same number of turns. This will ensure that your vehicle's alignment is about as close as you can get it without taking it to an alignment shop. Tighten the lock nut, reinstall the joint end into the hub, and torque the retainer nut. If there was a clevis or pin, reinstall it.
1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
2. Hold the tie rod end with vice grips or a pipe wrench and loosen the jamb nut (the nut at the inner end of the tie rod).
3. At the other end of the tie rod remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut.
4. The tie rod end will come out by turning counter clockwise. Before turning it grip the inner tie rod with pliers (the part on the other side of the jamb nut) so that it doesn't turn. Count exactly how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end.
5. Turn the new tie rod end in exactly the same number of turns that were required to remove the old one. Tighten the jamb nut up against the new part.
6. Re-install the castle nut and replace the cotter pin with a new one.
7. Re-install the wheel and lug nuts. Re-torqe them with the vehicle back on the ground.
8. It is a good idea to replace both tie rod ends at the same time and to get a front end alignment afterwards.
I hope this helps.
Purchase tie rod ends that are specific to your Honda model and year, for tie rod ends vary from model year to model year. The tie rod ends often come with nuts and cotter pins (glorified bobby pins).
Loosen the lug nuts on the front tires, but don't remove them. Jack up your vehicle, then support it securely on jack stands. Remove the tires.
Use a wrench or piers to loosen the outer tie rod's locking nut, but do so by only 1/8th of a turn. Mark the tie rod end's position on the threaded portion of the tie rod with paint or a marker.
Take out the cotter pin or key and use a wrench or pliers to loosen and remove the castellated nut from the outer tie rod end's spindle.
Separate the tie rod and the steering knuckle with a tie rod puller.
Grasp the tie rod with a wrench while you screw off the tie rod end. Make sure you keep track of the number of turns it takes to remove it, and write that number down. It'll help you when you install the replacement tie rod end.
Replace the Tie Rod End
Put a coat of anti-seize compound on the threaded portion of the tie rod end, and screw on the lock nut for the tie rod end.
Screw on the tie rod end, making sure you do it in the same number of turns as it took to remove the original tie rod end (see Section One, Step 6).
Slip the tapered end of the tie rod end into the steering knuckle and tighten the castellated nut to 29 to 35 foot pounds. If your tie rod end doesn't come with a castellated nut, tighten that nut to 32 foot pounds.
Install the new cotter pin and tighten the tie rod end's lock nut. Repeat Sections 1 and 2 for the other tie rod end.
Reinstall the tires, tighten the lug nuts and get the Honda aligned.
Not too much to it, Crack jamb nut loose at threaded end where it threads onto. Pop/whack, it out of spindle/knuckle, after removing cotter pin & nut, thread it out, and new one on, same distance, or amount of threads, and tighten jamb nut against it. Push end back into spindle/knuckle, give light tap with nylon or rubber hammer, so it won't spin when trying to tighten nut & install nut (35 ft.lbs) & cotter pin.
Jack up vehicle; back off set nut that connects outer to inner tie rod; remove cotter pin and castle nut from outer ball socket of t/r end; take a 'pickle fork' and tap between joint and steering knuckle to separate; then unscrew the outer t/r from the inner t/r, "counting the number of turns until completely off. Run the new locking nut onto new tir rod end; turn t/r same number of turns, and lock set nut; runt the new post of t/r end back into steering knuckle, tap down with a hammer, and use new castle nut to tighten; insert new cotter pin and grease fitting; again tighted locking nut to inner t/r; grease new t/r end...good to go!
1. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the side to be dismanteld. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), make sure the air suspention switch is turned to the OFF position before the vehicle is riased to prevent damage to the system components.
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. Discard the cotter pin.
4. Disconnect the tie-rod end fron the steering spindel with a Pitman arm puller.
5. Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and back it off several turns.
6. Apply a paint mark to the theads adjacent to the adjusting sleeve or tie-rod end. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod.
INSTALLATION: 7. Install the tie-rod end into the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod. Thread the tie-rob end in until the marks made on step 6 align.
8. Install the tie-rod end to the spindle. Make sure the front wheels and steering wheel are in the stright ahead position. Make sure the tie-rod stud is seated in the taper to prevent it from turing while tightening the nut.
9. Install the new nut on the stud and tighent it to the proper torque (45-60 ft-lbs). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely.
10. Tighten the tie-rod adjusting sleever clap bolts or jam nut to 50-68 ft-lbs. Make sure the tie-rod is posistioned correctly in the same posistion it was in before it was removed.
11. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.