Question about Washing Machines
Kenmore portable washer stops at drain point in cycle (same in all wash modes). About five minutes later, it turns on the 12 10 and 6 minute lights and flashes the water level light, obviously a fault code. What does it mean????
IT SOUNDS LIKE THE WATER IS NOT PUMPING OUT. IF THAT IS TRUE THEN I WOULD SUSPECT A PROBLEM WITH THE PUMP. YOU CAN GET PARTS AT APPLIANCEPARTS.COM
Posted on May 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: what do these error codes mean?
No water detected entering machine or pressure switch trip not detected
If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine, the valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
If the control has turned the water valves on, and after 8 minutes, the flow sensor has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off, and the error code will flash.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.
Possible Causes / Procedure
• If there is no water in the unit:
- Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
- Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
- Verify inlet valve operation.
• If there is water in the unit:
- Verify drain pump operation.
- Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub
and pressure switch.
1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump, flow meter,
and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Verify pressure switch operation.
7. Verify flow meter operation by blowing air through the part and measuring the resistance.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any cycle.
Replace failed component.(usually this will be failed pressure switch. the hose should be replaced as well)
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
Depending on how fritzed your drain pump is this may or may not work. I've been using HE detergent because it is supposed to cause fewer suds. However, apparently is causing more suds than needed. I need to use only a couple tablespoons? If your clothes are not dirty enough for the soap to grab onto then extra suds are the result. The repair guy said we had an excessive amount of suds in the system and this affects the sensor and causes the drain pump to run and run and run until it shuts off from overheating. This is why we get the F2 and/or suds error code. He said once a month run the machine on the hottest water cycle with a cup of bleach (no clothes). This will clear out any suds build-up and is cheaper than Afresh which works, too, (but smells cleaner than bleach). After sitting for a day our pump started working again (yay!) It also stopped making the horrible loud sound. So glad I do not have to replace the pump!! yet...(knock on wood!).
Posted on May 13, 2009
the F code is a puwer outige. This is how to fix
Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle. Select
DRAIN & SPIN if there is excessive water in the washer.
Re-select cycle and press START. If the problem remains, call
This is what an HF code is.
"FH" (Water Inlet Problem--no water or insufficient water
Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle. Unplug
washer or disconnect power.
Check the following:
Are water faucets completely turned on?
Are screens at inlet hose connection to washer clogged?
Are water inlet hoses kinked?
Are water inlet hoses frozen?
Plug in washer or reconnect power. Re-select cycle and press
START. If the problem remains, call for service.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
After getting the F1 error on my model 110.27086601 and looking at other posts here & elsewhere, I made one call to the "Product Resolution Center" at 800-847-9083 on 4/9/10. They answered quickly, looked up the model & serial number I gave them (begins with CT18) and confirmed that the unit is covered under the "upgrade plan" (as opposed to calling it a recall). They are sending the part directly to me today and they scheduled a Sears tech to come install it in 10 days (or less if the part arrives sooner). The part, shipping and service call are free. The whole call took less than 5 minutes and was no more difficult than ordering a pizza. The agent was polite, professional and a pleasure to deal with.
I'm pleased that 2 years after the warranty expired they are providing this repair free of charge and without any hassle.
To those who have had problems when calling or who will be calling, may I offer this tidbit for dealing with any customer service contact? Be polite and businesslike. The agent on the other end doesn't need to hear about "how disappointed you are, blah, blah" or that you've "been a loyal customer for 84 years" and you've "never had a problem like this" or any other editorial commentary - just be friendly, and say something like " Hi, I have an Oasis washer with the F1 problem and I understand that there's a recall covering this." That's exactly what I said and the agent efficiently handled everything from there.
Remember, the agent gets measured on the number of calls they complete so they just want to take care of you as quickly as possible. Help them by just simply stating the problem and just answering their questions with just the information requested. They are not there to listen to people whine - they've heard everything you have to say a thousand times and they will appreciate your brevity and no nonsense demeanor. Make it easy for them and they'll make it easy for you. Do your venting here if you must.
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
SOURCE: kenmore washer 45087 fH code
FH error indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water. Since you can see it filling, the error indicates low flow. A flow meter
in the unit detects if 10.5 gallons fills the tub within 8 minutes; yours must not be. This will turn off the inlet valves and the error code will be displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. This occurs when there is no air gap for the drain line at the standpipe. The standpipe is the drain pipe at the wall where the washer drain line is placed. With no air gap, a vacuum is created, and water will begin to drain from the wash tub prematurely. To prevent this from occurring, follow this advice:
•The standpipe should be 2 inches in diameter to allow a sufficient air gap between the top of the standpipe and the drain hose.
•The standpipe should be a minimum of 34" from the floor, and should not exceed 72 inches in height.
•DO NOT seal the top of the standpipe. Many consumers seal the standpipe in the belief that this will prevent overflows, or get rid of drain odors. This often creates more problems than solutions.
•DO NOT place the drain hose too far down into the pipe. Water stays in the drain trap area of the standpipe. If the end of the drain hose rests in this area, no air gap is created, and this can also cause siphoning. 4 to 6 inches is sufficient.
•The drain hose length must not exceed 10 feet in length. Excessive drain hose length can cause drain problems and back wash.
- Verify Drain Pump operation. Unplug the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Open the pump access and remove, once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
- Verify Flow meter operation and that the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. Remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It's a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required in determining if the components are good or bad.
"F/H" indicates that either you have no water coming into the washer, or very little water.
If you have NO water coming into the wash tub after 30 seconds the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary.
- Make sure water taps are on.
- Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, and after 8 minutes, 10.5 gallons of water has been detected by the flowmeter, but there has not been a detected a Pressure Switch trip, the inlet valves are turned off and the error code is displayed. Check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions: http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning
- Verify Drain Pump operation.
- Verify Flowmeter operation.
- Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly.
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. If not, click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
To access the Flowmeter and Pressure Switch – remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The flowmeter will be located on the left-hand side of the washer (facing from the front) between the inlet valve and dispenser. It’s a small white plastic device with hoses attached. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a hose attached.
There should be a tech sheet directly behind the panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics, how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
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Posted on Sep 11, 2010
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