Question about Refrigerators
If any moisture was left in the unit prior to storage with the doors closed, it has caused the door tracks to become rusty and non functional. Refrigerator units should always be left ajar for many days following removal of power to allow the interior to fully defrost, and dry out. Extended periods of trapped moisture inside the unit will also cause corrosion on the aluminum coil, and cooling failure. Pleazer Appliance...
Posted on May 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are 2 possible problems. One is the defrost cycle is not working properly this is usually indicated by a large amount of frost on the back freezer panel. If so, the circuit will have to be repaired and the evaperator thawed to remove the ice build up. The other is the fresh food damper is not working properly this is behind the "lump" in the back of the fridge compartment above the top shelf, remove the louver panel to see if it is open or closed. closed will be warm open should be cold. The water dispenser reservoir is probably frozen due to poor air circulation.
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
Okay, I fixed it for now. The design for this bottom freezer drawer is not good. What happened was most likely that my son slammed the door, and it bounced and was slightly open. Overnight, ice started to form all over the compartment, including inside the drawer guides. Some ice was probably obstructing the drawer glide from sliding shut.
What I did, not thinking this was the solution, was to prop chairs against the drawer to close it while I searched for answers on the Internet. In the meantime, some of this ice must have refrozen in the closed position (due to the weight of the chairs). When I went to check it later, I had a little trouble opening the drawer. I gave it a hard yank and some small frost flew off, as I opened the drawer.
It was not easy sliding it due to the frost. I then moved it out and in until it felt smooth, and finally closed the drawer and it stayed in the shut position.
Kids are instructed to close the drawer gently and visually check that it is sealed. There is also an air passage between the refrigerator unit and the freezer so that when you close the double french doors, some air pushed to the freezer section and momentarily pops the drawer open. You should make sure that the drawer closes before leaving the kitchen. If you are on vacation, prop chairs to make sure both the freezer drawer and the french doors stay closed. This is important if you're in an earthquake area as a small tremor could open the doors and you'll get a fire when the lights stay on and burn through the wiring (as others have noted).
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
Remove all the food from the freezer and then the drawer from the cabinet. Now using a silicone based lubricant, lube the tracks up real well. Be sure to clean the tracks first if gunked up. Make sure nothing small fell out of the basket over time and is laying on the floor in the rear of the freezer section. Once done, you should be fine.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
The repair guy did what any repair guy would have done under a warranty situation such as yours... door gaskets. I presume he explained why he was doing what did ("why's" are important, ya know...). If he didn't, let me run through it real quick, OK?
Warm air holds moisture and cold air doesn't... that it in a nutshell. But what's important to note is that if there is an air leak inside your freezer you'll notice it just as you have, with condensation forming. This tells the repair guy that cold air is escaping and warm air is entering the freezer. The first place to look is the door gasket and that's why he replaced it. But now you know it wasn't the gasket, right?
So the repair guy didn't find the source of the air leak. It happens. The reason is that most "factory" tech's are trained on the fly and have the habit of not looking too deep into a problem 'cause they're warranty guys. They get paid whether or NOT a problem was fixed. See? Independent repair guys like me only get paid WHEN the job is fixed. So there's a GREAT incentive for me to get it right the first time, right? (I'm not "bashing" them. I'm just clarifying that warranty repairs are hit and miss at best.)
The thing you gotta think about is "How many places are there for cold air to escape and warm air to enter?" The answer to that question is "4". Yep. FOUR places that this can happen and each of them have to be inspected for evidence of moisture. They are;
1.) Behind the fridge where the ice maker water tube is inserted through the cabinet and into the freezer.
2.) Behind the fridge where the wire bundle enters the freezer compartment.
3.) Behind the fridge in the compresser compartment where the evaporator drain comes OUT of the freezer compartment.
4.) The door gasket.
Since your unit is still under warranty I certainly wouldn't expect you to chase these down for yourself. You should call GE again and have the repair guy come do this for you (print this out so you will have the above checklist). This is to protect your warranty, by the way. If you (or an appliance repair company NOT authorized to work on it) work on it, you run the risk of voiding the warranty altogether.
There's a product on the market called "PermaGum" (here's a link). It's used to seal air leaks such as this. When you talk to GE, try to insist that the tech have some on his truck when he arrives... I have the feeling that he'll need it because I suspect a leak is occurring in one of the top 3 areas I mentioned above (either that, or he didn't install the door gasket correctly in the first place).
As an aside? Just a tip/hint... I know that your fridge is new and all, but to KEEP the door gaskets like new for (almost) ever, use Vaseline on them. Yep, Vaseline. Open the fridge door, dab your finger into the Vaseline and smear a light (light) coat of it on the door gaskets all the way around. This will do 2 things;
1.) It'll keep the door gaskets from ever drying out.
2.) It'll provide a very good and air-tight seal when the door is closed. (air leak, Laura?)
There ya go! I hope this has helped you in your quest to rid you freezer of pesky condensation. If so, please remember to rate this as "It fixed my problem", OK? After that, you can mix up a Mojito and bask in the knowledge that you are a completely informed consumer when the GE guy gets there to finally fix your fridge.
Posted on May 07, 2009
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