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Humming halogens. I recently installed an electronic low voltage dimmer, 300watt DIVA, to my Kablelight system. I have 4 MR16- 12V- 50 watt bulbs. (200 watts total). When dimmed, the lights hum loudly. I upgraded to a MAESTRO MAELV- 600 as per the experts advice. The lights still hum when dimmed. Any thoughts?

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Transformer hum with dimmers is a problem. Lutron may offer you an inductor to add to the wire to help. Replacing your 50w bulbs with 12w LED bulbs may help, too. Same light output.

Posted on May 07, 2014

Testimonial: "Thank you for the suggestions. I may pursue the inductor option"

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SOURCE: I need to install a diva low voltage electronic

The dimmer connections should go like this.

Black from dimmer to black Constant Power In Wall
White from dimmer to Neutral (Whites) in wall
Yellow from dimmer to wire out to light (usually black)
Green from dimmer to BARE GROUND WIRE

Posted on May 14, 2010

al_kupchella
  • 843 Answers

SOURCE: Hi, I have a leviton

You said they are 50 watt GU10's, so I would assume they are 120V halogens, and you must simply have gotten a bad dimmer. But if these GU10's are 50 watt equivalent (LED's or CFL's) then the bulbs will have their own transformers built into them, and would be incompatible with a dimmer switch. It also might be the case that you have low voltage halogens which would use a transformer, shared or individual, and these would also be incompatible with a dimmer. (I don't know offhand if GU10's are available with low voltage halogens.)

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

  • 107 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 600 watt 1 pole Diva dimmer controlling

First of all, in general, dimmers (even at their highest setting) cause the lights to dim even a little bit. If you are doing a 1-for-1 comparison, you may notice a difference - but honestly, it shouldn't be THAT dramatic that you're able to notice it.

My first suggestion is to double-check the model number. There's a version of Diva with a "G" in the model number (DV-603PG-) which was designed with a lower-high-end light level than normal (designed to guarantee extra energy-savings).

If the model number checks out, my next suggestion is to upgrade to a spec-grade product (like an NT-600-WH). The commercia/specification grade products have a higher high-end than the residential grade products. It still will dim the lights a little bit, but will be better.

After that, I suggest calling tech support at 1-800-523-9466 for more suggestions. Its a free call and they're available 24/7.

Posted on Apr 20, 2011

al_kupchella
  • 843 Answers

SOURCE: can a 600W dimmer handle 1200W of Lights? on 25% power or less?

No, Dimmers are basically resistance devices. The max load on them is not at full brightness anyway.

Posted on Nov 25, 2012

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If i was to change headlight globes from 55 watt low/65 watt high to xenon halogen 90 watt low/100 watt high is there any problems


Most OE factory wiring is marginal as far as amperage carrying capability goes. They installed wiring fine for the stock bulbs and switch. A lot of vehicles send power to the lights..head and running...through the light switch on the dash. This causes it's own problems as switches are the weak link in the lighting system.

If you run 100watt bulbs you will need to power the bulbs via a 40 amp relay switched by the light switch so the switch does not carry the amperage load through it's contacts.

Doing so will reduce the voltage drop to the bulbs as a 2 volt drop will cause the bulbs to be only 75% as bright as they would be with the full 13.5 volt running voltage..

You run a fused wire from the battery or power distribution block to the relay that should be mounted within 6 inches of the closest h/l bulb. Then from the relay to the head light bulb/s. The front and rear running lamps can remain as factory as they are low amperage draw and original light switch will work because you now no longer run power to the h/lamps through the switch.

Search the www for schematics for relay switched lamps.


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I have a self-installed Leviton TTI06-1LM dimmer (600w capacity) that controls a halogen light that uses 12x 12v/20w (140w total) halogen lights. The dimmer works fine, but once a day, or perhaps every...


Your issue is that the dimmer is not rated to handle the type of fixture/lamps its controlling.

From a lighting control standpoint, the 12V-lamps classify as "low-voltage halogen" and, somewhere in that circuit, have a transformer(s) converting the 120V~ down to 12V~. Using incandescent dimmers (like the one you are using) can cause compatibility issues with those transformers. What I suspect is happening is that the incompatibily is either throwing voltage spikes or current spikes on the line which are causing the dimmer to enter some sort of "safety" mode to shut everything down before any problems occur.

My recommendation is to first figure out what type of transformer it is: Either magnetic low-voltage, or electronic low-voltage. Ideally you would contact the transformer manufacturer (or look up their specs online) to figure that out. Other rules of thumb: if the transformer's big & bulky, it's probably magnetic - conversely if its lightweight, it's probably electronic. If its only one transformer controlling all of the lamps together, it's probably magnetic - conversely if its one of those transformers where the transformer and light bulb come togheter as one assembled unit and then snap into the track, it's probably electronic.

Then make sure the dimmer is rated for magnetic low-voltage, or electronic low-voltage (depending upon what the transformer is).

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I have a Maestro dimmer on 2 20 w hallogen bulbs and the dimmer when turn off or on dims the lights rapidlyup and down.


When you say "halogen bulbs," are you referring to MR-16 (12-Volt) lamps off a transformer, or line-voltage halogen lamps. If using the MR-16s, then the fixture doesn't qualify as "incandescent" which is what the dimmer you have is rated for, and the behavior of the transformers within the fixture can cause the types of issues you're seeing. If it is a line-voltage (120-volt) halogen then, then it could be a number of things depending upon how "rapidly" and frequent the "up and down" is. Regardless, call Lutron's tech support number at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7, they won't charge you, and they can help you sort this out.

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1) Amazon sells 600Watt power pack:
http://www.amazon.com/Malibu-8100-9600-01-Voltage-Power-Transformer/sim/B002ZRPM4A/2

2) I bought new 300Watt Malibu power pack at Home Depot about 2 months ago.
Near the lighting section.
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I think Home Depot had 600Watt.
Lowes carries different brand.

3) Manuals for power packs at Malibu lights.com
http://www.malibulights.com/customer_service/owners_manuals.aspx

4) Tips for buying and taking care of power pack:
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-15 each X 20 watt bulbs = 300 watts, so install 300Watt power pack
-Installing a 500W power pack on 300W of bulbs will burn out bulbs and power pack.
-Replace bulbs as soon as they burn out or other bulbs will burn out and power pack will burn out.
-When working on bulbs, unplug power pack or it may burn out.
http://www.malibulights.com/guides_support/low_voltage_planning_guide/select_your_power_pack

5) How to install power pack.
Before unplugging old power pack, check which bulbs are not working.
Replace bulbs using phillips screwdriver.
Unplug power pack.
Notice how wires are connected to power pack, write down terminal connections.
Some power packs have three terminals ... extra terminal is for additional photoelectric eye.
Use pliers or screwdriver to disconnect wires.
New power pack has has same terminals.
Plug in power pack.
Read instruction manual before connecting wires.
Save instruction manual because a few years that manual won't be around as products change.

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