Question about Maytag MTB1504ARS Top Freezer Refrigerator
I have a Maytag MTB1504ARS the Freezer is not defrosting anymore.. I have to defrost it every couple days..it just builds up with Ice (behind the inside cover) in less than 48 hours I had someone look at it, and he had me give him a deposit for 2 parts "defrost Heater" and a "Thermostat"..but he never bought the parts..and gave me a runaround about backorders etc..(hmmmm) I looked up the part "thermostat " (it's a lot cheaper than he put on the deposit receipt) but i dont see anything called a "defrost heater " for this model a couple of places online i see the defrost thermostat is also listed as defrost heater.. I need to just purchase the parts and do the replacement myself. 1. is there indeed 2 parts I need? 2. I think ive figured out that the thermostat is the little white rectangular part that is on the outside of the cover that houses the inner workings of the freezer..is that correct 3. if there is a "defrost heater" what does that part look like, there aren't a lot of parts in the freezer... so i'm not sure what it could be Any help would be appreciated
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Defrost problem folowup
bmurf, This adaptive defrost determined by compressor run time between defrost cycles. It could go up to 96 hours before defrost depending on differnt variables. With the unit running, a good frost on the evaportator and the tstat covered with frost or ice, unplug the refer. Pull the connector off the adaptive defrost board. On the harness, ohm from red to white/black stripe. If your tstat is good, you should read less than one ohm continuity. If it's bad, you probably will read around 240K ohms. This is the resistance of the resistor built into the tstat. On the live checks, plug in the refer. You are going to have 120VAC from Red to white. You also want to see 120V from white to white/black stripe. If you have that, the tstat is closed. If you have less than 120, say 96,100V. on white to red, that means you are dropping power through the 240K resistor built into the tstat. The board senses the tstat is open and no need to defrost. I hope this helps you out cat, thanks for the kind words on your post. Good luck, Catriver
Posted on Jul 27, 2007
I think I can help you here. Sounds like it is the internal refrigerator thermostat which should be located in the upper housing of the refigerator section. Changing it may be difficult for a DIY'er as there is a capillary tube that is very fragile and should be handled with extreme caution so as not to break it. As far as finding one, never call the manufacturer. They seldom have the parts you need. Try your local A/C and refigeration shop. Another option should your unit not have a thermostat would be a "clixon". This is a small disc shaped device attached to the cooling coil which will have two wires coming from it. A third option is be sure before you do anything that the coils are not frozen and iced over. If they are, unplug unit and do a manual defrost. Hair dryers work well for this. Be sure to have plenty of towels on hand for this can be a messy process. Hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on May 06, 2009
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
How to check everything
check , defrost heater, defrost thermostat. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the adaptive defrost control. Part 13 in this diagram.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
You access it from the front removing the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
Note: the heater may have failed, but has a very low failure rate.
If the machine is not defrosting, the timer and defrost thermostat ( sometimes called a limiter) are just as if not more often the problem.
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
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