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Bend the rod down slightly and gently. Suspect the float has a leak - empty water from toilet and gently shake float to determine if there is any loose water inside and if so, empty and let surface dry overnight, then put a little silicone glue like aquarium cement over the hole where the water came out.
Flush valves are held to the tank by one large jam nut on the bottom of the tank. Installing a new flush valve usually requires removing the toilet tank from the bowl, which can be rather complicated. However, wall-mounted tanks may not need to be removed.
If the toilet tank must be removed, turn the water off completely, flush the toilet and hold the trip lever down to evacuate most of the tank water. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water. Disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. If the flexible riser tube is damaged, replace it.
Then, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. These bolts go through the tank and bowl flange, with nuts beneath. Use caution–forcing the bolts may cause you to break the tank, bowl or both. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads. If they still won't budge without force, try wrapping masking tape around a hacksaw blade and sawing with the teeth facing you, so the blade cuts on the "pull" stroke. The layer of masking tape will protect the bowl's glazed surface from saw scratches.
The tank should now lift away from the bowl. Lay it upside-down on a throw rug or newspaper padding to protect it, and unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank. Use channel-locking pliers plus penetrating oil and extreme care to avoid breakage. Clamp a well-padded locking plier/wrench around the flush valve to keep it from rotating inside the tank.
Install the new flush valve according to the directions. The rubber gasket goes on the inside of the tank to prevent leakage. The flat washer fits on the outside to prevent tank damage.
Use new brass tank hold-down bolts, which will remain workable. Tighten the bolts just enough to compress the tank's soft rubber gasket and keep it from leaking.
Install the water supply riser to the tank and turn on the water.
it it is a plumbed in unit running off utility water supply, there is a small ceramic water filter assembly that can be fitted into the water inlet side of the unit
because it is extremely fine it removes the contaminates that make the taste if that doesn't work you can fit in tandem a charcoal filter after that ceramic to guarantee perfectly clean tasteless water
add to the fact that every 12 months ( depending on volume usage) the ceramic filter can be removed and the contaminates scraped off the surface using a knife which regenerates the filter
if it is bottle feed then clean out the holding tank using bleach, wash thoroughly and allow water to run from both taps for a few minutes to remove all residue bleach , the fit new water bottle
spare bottles are subject to algae growth ( taste ) if stored in a well lit area so store spare bottles in a dark room ( closet , under bench etc )
Close the Inlet Water valve to the Flush Tank.
Remove the lid on top of the Tank cover.
Check the link/chord connecting the flush knob and the Flush valve.
It might be broken.
Normally the Flush Tank lever, which is outside the Tank lifts the Flush valve at the bottom of the Tank.
Not positive about that engine, but the usual method is the heater inlet will come off the cylinder head somewhere and to the firewall, and the heater outlet (the return hose) will be at same place on the firewall and go to the water pump, very close or at the fitting where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water pump inlet.
replace the whole control unit
There may be 2 problems
the small washer that shuts off the water flow when the level is reached may be swollen and not sealing properly
the section at the bottom has cracked at a thread level
so by replacing the unit you will eliminate both problems
to remove the unit, turn off the water tap, flush the system, holding the button down until all of the water has gone
remove the inlet pipe at the bottom of the cistern
undo the retaining nut under the cistern and lift the control unit out
there will be water in the bottom of the cistern so use old towels on the floor to soak up the water that will run out
There must either be a problem with the seal between the two surfaces of the flapper and flush valve or the flapper is being prevented by the flush system to returning to make a seal against the flush valve after the water completes draining during the flush cycle or more likely water is draining through the overflow tube.
Make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and not damaged.
Make sure the flapper is not being interfered with and is able to return to the closed position to make a complete seal against the flush valve.
Check adjustment of the water fill level to make sure the water is not filling above the water overflow. If the inlet valve does not shut-off when the level is adjusted to the proper level the water inlet valve may need replacing.
If your tank is very old than there might be accumulation of rust and debris on bottom of tank, try and purge the tank put a garden hose on the lower most water fitting at the bottom of your unit and drain the tank. Be sure to shut off the water inlet. You might even have the booklet still taped to the side of your unit and it will explain how to flush your unit.You might also want tot think about replacing your anode rod it is probably toast if old unit.