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How do I repair 4 stuck keys on a Behringer Concert Keyboard CDP2000?

Unit was torn down. Section of metal bar which appears to secure 12 keys was removed. I was unable to remove keys to see what is wrong.

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Counter weights are not rotating on the one octave pin that holds them in place. This is caused by the grease changing over the years. Two options: remove the pin and ream out the nylon hole with a drill bit. Not too big of a hole, because you don't want the weight clunking around while playing. Caution: they will all start drooping, so do them all. Better option: since this keybed was copied from Suzuki, look into having the entire rod set replaced with a Suzuki ACE rod kit. The new rod is Teflon coated and won't give you any problems after it has been replaced.

Posted on Feb 24, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Ok i was playnig on my celviano ap-620 and then 8 of the keys started to sound rare, very loud, it seems like it lost the key touch sensivility on those keys from the center (C) and 8 keys down i tried...


What has happened is that one signal wire of the matrix that scans the keyboard has opened up. Each key has two contacts. One closes before the other and that is how they measure key velocity to control the loudness for piano sounds for example. When one contact doesn't work, often the sound is set to MAXIMUM key velocity resulting in MAX loudness. The key contacts are scanned digitally in groups of usually 8 or 12 and, for instance, every C key has a single line attached and then every group of 8 or 12 has a second line and then there are two complete sets of these to implement the velocity sensing. Your unit probably has either a break in a cable or possibly a cable connector that has failed or not seated OR worst case, the circuit board under the keys has a crack breaking one wire or circuit trace going to that section of the keys. The problem will require opening the keyboard to repair. If you are not electronically adept, besst to take this to a repair shop.

Aug 14, 2011 | Casio AP-620 AP620 Digital Cabinet Piano...

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1 key does not spring back when it is pressed and 1 key has a bit of resistance when pushed


The elektrotanya website link proposed in the other solution here did not work for me. So with a similar sticky keys problem on my YDP-113 yamaha digital piano, i just started taking it apart.

I found that the problem was that the sticking keys actually had small cracks at the hinge end. See attached photo for a picture of the hinge end of the key. The cracks are very small and hard to see, but if this is your problem, you will see it in a good light. Having the key apart will also allow you to clean the sides well in case there has been a bubble gum attack or similar problem.

After learning that replacement keys are extremely expensive (like $15 per key...) I decided to move the bad keys to the highest and lowest notes on the keyboard (88 key keyboard so there is some seldom used territory). The center several octaves are now free of sticky keys and this is good enough for now.

The procedure on my YDP-113 was:
1. Remove black screws from back panel of unit to allow top to slide forward and then lift off. Set aside.
2. Roll the roll top all the way closed and then simply lift up to remove. Set aside.
3. Remove the six screws which attach the roll top gear rail (3 screws on each side panel). Set aside the gear rails.
4. Remove 2 screws in the key top bracket, and 1 screw from each end of the key top. "Key top" is my name for the small strip which lies along the top of the keys. If you have an official or better name, please share.
5. Remove the 10 or so large screws and two small screws which hold the keyboard panel down in the unit.The keyboard should now be able to slide a few millimeters toward the back of the unit.
6. Remove 1 screw to take out the power switch panel. The front of it hooks in with a tab, so slide it back and then it will lift out.
7. Careful now. I felt this was the one operation where I had an opportunity to ruin the unit if I would have fumbled: Lift the keyboard up slightly and rest its front 'legs' on the front edge of the case. Careful of small wires to not rip them. Careful of the circuit boards that are underneath the keyboard frame. jeff20112011.jpgThe objective here is to allow the keys to come out toward you so that they can be removed and replaced or swapped. You can kind of see in the cracked key end photo, how the keyboard is up and partially out of the unit.
8. You now can do the actual swapping. To remove a key, pry up very gently in back of the key with a small screwdriver. jeff20112011_0.jpgIt will pop up. Then gently work the key around to free it from the return spring without bending that spring. Replace with a new key or swap will a good working key in a little used position. Note that B and E are interchangeable, also C and F. Some other keys also look like they could interchange though I didn't personally try it.
9. Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly.

Apr 06, 2011 | Yamaha YDP223 Digital Piano

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I plugged in a wrong adapter to MT-2 i think 12 v. it should have been 9v now it doesnt work is there any way to fix this problem?


Normally the 12 volt supply would NOT damage the unit UNLESS it had the wrong polarity or was an AC type.

Likely damage if these were used is confined to a few small electronic components where the power copmes into the unit.

Repair the unit before putting correct supply as you could damage the correct supply if those parts failed a certain way.

Aug 01, 2010 | Boss Mt 2 Metal Zone Effects Pedal

1 Answer

How do I remove the keys from a Roland KR 4700 piano? We can't figure it out. Please help! I can't afford to get a repairman. I need to replace the contact strip. It's happened before.


If these are semi weighted keys here is a cut and paste from a manual:
19. Disassembling the Keyboard Assembly
* After inserting a round stick (Rod: TX000670)
between the frame and the keys, remove the
circuit boards. (Fig. 23)
19-1 GHD EBUS L, MK SUB Circuit Board
(Time required: about 12 minutes)
Remove the seven (7) screws marked [260A]. The
GHD EBUS L and MK SUB circuit boards can then
be removed. (Fig. 24, Photo 5)
19-2 GHD M Circuit Board
(Time required: about 12 minutes)
Remove the five (5) screws marked [260B] and the
screw marked [262]. The GHD M circuit board can
then be removed. (Fig. 24)
19-3 GHD H Circuit Board
(Time required: about 12 minutes)
Remove the four (4) screws marked [260C] and the
screw marked [262]. The GHD H circuit board can
then be removed. (Fig. 24)
* Keys can be removed without removing the
circuit boards.
* After removing the GHD EBUS L, GHD M and
GHD H circuit boards, and the rubber contacts
can then be removed.
19-4 Rubber contact
Remove the GHD circuit board for the involved key.
The rubber contacts can then be removed.

The rod is inserted above the weighted hammer and the bottom of the keys from one end. It appears to be about 1/4 inch diameter dowel and will run the full length of the keyboard. You might use 3 foot ones from each end.

Screws are removed and the boards removed without taking the individual keys out.

Mar 17, 2010 | Yamaha NP 30 76 Key Lightweight Digital...

2 Answers

Roland hp550g digital piano has a couple of dropped keys


Power off the unit. Disconnect all cables that plug into the speaker base if you have one - It may be wise to document the individual wires to make their reinstallation easier. Remove the unit from the speaker stand and lay it on the floor on something like an old towel - you may get some dark colored grease on the rug. Remove the screws only for the bottom rear, not the front - you don't need to remove them. Do this by gently turning the unit upside down. Only remove the screws from the sides/rear bottom, and note which screw types you removed from where. Once all bottom rear screws are removed gently return the unit right side up. now pivot the top rear cover - the sides of the cover are attached to the rear - pivot it toward the back. No need to remove the ribbon cables - just let the top lay there or prop it up with something if the ribbon cables don't have enough slack for the top cover to lay flat on its back. You should now be looking at all of the keys uncovered. notice the rear of each key is where it hinges. You'll notice the grease at the hinge point. The keys are thin plastic so you must take care not to damage them. The way to remove a key is to spread the ears at the hinge point of the key you want to remove. I use a screwdriver sharpened to a point, but a large pair of needle nose pliers work good too. You insert the tapered point of the tool between the ears gently to spread them far enough to just clear the pins. Once they are spread wide enough you'll feel them disengage. Each key also has two hooks located side by side towards the front of the key on the bottom side - they are not visable until the hinge is released, but you must realise they are there or you'll either snap the key back onto the hinge or not be able to pull the key out once you've got it off the hinge. Pivot the key towards you to remove it. What you now have in your hand is not the defective part. You have the top that is touched when playing the keyboard. The defective part is still setting in the mechanism. What's actually happened is the keys are made of very thin plastic where they are glued around the weight and this plastic breaks leaving the weighted end down there somewhere. Examine where the key top came from and how it works. The key top is the part you took off of the hinge. You can see how the keys on each side work and you'll also see what is missing from the mechanism for the key you're working on. To make things easier I always remove one additional key top on each side of a key that I repair to make access easier. Just place the other keys you remove right behind the key area in the order you took them off so it'll be obvious how they go back on. Now the broken weighted mechanism you can lift right out. Actually you can lift it out easier with the weighted end broken off, but once you glue it back together you can still get it in there without to much trouble. You only need to remove the damaged weighted mechanism for the key you're repairing. I remove the key tops on each side of the damaged key for visability only. Take your pair of needle nose pliers and pick out the broken end. Now fit it onto the end of the weighted mechanism in preparation for glueing - just so you can see how it's going to go on there. I use a high quality modeling super glue. Before I came across this glue I used JB Weld, but it takes a few hours to dry. The high quality super glue allows you to put everything back together immediately. Installation is reverse of removal: Snake the weighted mechanism back in once you've repaired it - you can always examine those on each side if you get confused. Hook the key top front first then smoothly snap in place the hinge ears over the pins. Make sure to check the movement of the repaired key, and check also to see if anymore keys are setting lower as they may be in process of breaking off. Once all keys are repaired, carefull lower the top rear cover onto the key assembly. While holding the cover onto the key assembly/base, gently turn the unit over onto its back and reinstall the screws. Should be all washer headed screws - do not over tighten. Check the keys again. Set the keyboard onto its base (if it came with one) and you're done. A little practice and it'll take you less than a half hour to fix the key and get it back together

Feb 28, 2010 | Roland Music

1 Answer

I have a CDP-100 and need disassembly instructions for access to internal keyboard assembly. Unit was dropped while unloading from car. Now some keys are akimbo and won't play as though they are off their...


I just fixed my CDP 100 which had a similar problem - dropped and two keys not working up one end.
1. Lay keyboard upside down on soft surface. Under keyboard is plastic cover held on by 17 screws. Remove all these and lift cover away. The metal key ends are all revealed.
2. Locate the disloged keys. Carefully press them back into position - they will "click" into place. Make sure the corresponding key on the keyboard isn't stuck in an "up" position - you may have to remove the metal key part and replace it again while making sure the key is correctly seated.
3. Replace cover and screws.

Feb 22, 2010 | Casio Music

2 Answers

How to remove amp from cabinet? reverb doesn't work.


SOMETIMES the handle screws must be removed as well.

I have taken a lot of these out and the key is to figure out which direction it comes out... MOST are out the back and sometimes a board across the back has to be taken off with four screws to clear a transformer.

FIGHTING getting the thing out when it catches on the Tolex covering is the USUAL problem. Takes patience and sometimes a blade to hold the Tolex back.

USUALLY the speaker baffle stays in place.

Nov 12, 2009 | Peavey Music

2 Answers

Key won't come back up on Roland digital piano


Roland FP is a nice keyboard but has a known problem on cracking key weights. There is a counter weight under each key to push the key upward. There are two sizes of weight beams, longer one for white keys and shorter one for black keys. Roland did not make the original weight beams strong enough to last. They will crack and eventually break. When it happens, the key will stay down. Fortunately, they can be easily replaced.

Roland FP-8 has 4 black screws at the bottom on each side end. Remove the screws, flip the ends up and expose the interior. Near the hinge of the problematic key, carefully ply open the hinge tabs and remove the key from the hinge. You will find a weight beam under the key. Remove and inspect the weight. There should be a metal wrapped in a plastic beam. If the metal part is missing, find the missing part and replace with a new beam. You can order weight beams from Roland. It costs about $10 each plus shipping. Put everything back in the reversed order.

Oct 01, 2009 | Music

1 Answer

Yamaha PSR 75


You have to completely remove the circuit boards. If this is the keyboard I'm thinking of then the keys are all mounted on the same part like parts on the sprue in a model airplane kit. If its a different one then you have to remove the assembly and take the spring of the key you want and at the other end when you flip it over there is a strip glued on the metal frame to secure the keys that you have to peel off for that sector.

Jul 09, 2009 | Yamaha YPT400 61 Key Portable Keyboard...

1 Answer

Yamaha PSR 510 -- one of the white keys broke out. Need HELP!


I figured it out. Once the whole 61-key section is unscrewed (I believe its just one screw at the end and it simply lifts off) you have to take a flat head screwdriver and stick it in the top edge of the key rows and twist to force the little tabs out of the slots. Be careful because this is not easy and some of the little tabs might break off - it may not be crucial for the keys to snap back in, though. The first few black keys and the tab above are all one solid piece of plastic. All of the keys are grouped in groups of 3-5 or so as one piece. White keys are layered under the black keys so you must release black key groups to access the white key groups. Once you have forced a key group lose from its snap attachment you must also free the keys from underneath to fully lift the keys off the unit. You have to BREAK the hook shapes found on the underside of the keys (they rest up against the orange rubber lining.) Take wire cutters and snap off all the tips in the key group you wish to remove. Depress a key and watch the movement underneath if you have trouble seeing what I'm talking about - you will see the hooks - think of it as the bottom of the key because that is what it is. The piece you break off should be very small - just enough to remove the hook shape enabling you to lift the keys right out. This will not cause the keyboard to be unusable. It will only make it possible to bend the key up once everything is reassembled. It is the only way I see to free the keys and gain access to the action underneath. As for that...

The action underneath is made up of a pair of rubber cups that when pushed make contact with metal sensors. These rubber cups can tear causing them to fail to pop back up to rest position. I am trying crazy glue to see if this will repair the tear. If not then I will try double-sided tape so that the plastic key will pull the rubber cup back up with it (I hope) when released. Good luck. It is a great keyboard. Very sad to see it discontinued.

This is regarding the Yamaha PSR-510.

Feb 10, 2009 | Yamaha Full-Size Keyboard

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