Question about Washing Machines
How do i reset the internal computer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The best I could find by scouring the internet was that it was a communication problem between the central control unit and the electronic control box. I was getting F1 codes that would stop the wash, then diagnostics showed F68 and F41 codes.
Sears wanted to charge $65 just to come out and diagnose it themselves, and these appliance sites wanted to charge their own fees to offer solutions. So I took a chance and ordered a new electronic control box ($146.00 + S&H) and installed it myself.
There are three long screws behind the control unit "hood", in the back-top of the washer, facing straight up and down. After unscrewing, I lifted up the hood up and forward, and there was a black box - the electronic control. First, you should check all the wires and make sure the connections are ok. If that still doesn't fix it, unplug all the wires, and take the electronic control out by unscrewing one 1/4" bolt. Put the new one in and re-wire everything (it shows what wires go where on the electronic control box - named by colors). No more error codes!
This washer is only a year and a half old as well, I guess it will pobably be my last Kenmore/Whirlp
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
Is there water in the bottom of the tub? If yes then open back of washer and remove drain pump (on left side) and pull off of tub and clear whatever is blocking its impeller.
If the water is all gone and drained but pump stays on for several minutes and then gives "LD" fault then open back and check the small clear tube that is attached to the tub. Make sure is not blocked with debris and check tube and tub for anything that could block the small clear tube. If these are ok then remove 3 screws in back of the control panel, pull open control panel and check the clear tub all the way up from the tub to the washer controller board (computer) make sure it is not kinked or disconnected. If not then the problem is most likely the pressure sensor on the (computer). This unit will have to be replaced.
You can test the sensor by doing the following: 1. When the "LD" fault comes on start by pressing the pause button. then pull the clear tube off of the computer board. Then attach a tight fitting drinking straw over the sensor. Press the start button and wait for 60 seconds - If the washer does not start the spin cycle on its own after the 60 seconds then **** on the drinking straw that you attached to the pressure sensor earlier. The sucking action should reset the sensor thus telling the computer that the water is drained and it will start the spin cycle. Just remember if you have to do this to get the washer to spin - that means the sensor is damaged most likely from moisture traveling up the tube over time. The computer board will need to be replaced. I believe it costs $205 without shipping. Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
Called 1-800-253-1301 was told by the Whirlpool agent that there was a quality issue associated with the F1 fault code. They would take care of parts and labor free of charge! My machine is 28 months old. Talked to a woman named Valerie.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
F1 means the control board is shot. Call whirlpool and they should take care of the parts and labor even though your machine is out of warranty.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
JUST SPOKE WITH WHIRLPOOL ABOUT THE F-50 CODE. THEY SAID THAT THEY ARE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND THEY ARE PAYING TO FIX IT. ALSO THE CONTROLL BOARD AND THE RPS SENSOR MUST BE REPLACED TO FIX THE PROBLEM. THE OWNER MUST CALL WHIRLPOOL, NOT THE TECH, TO GET THEM TO PAY FOR IT. HOPE THIS HELPS.
Posted on Mar 29, 2010
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