I have taken apart the faucet and re-taped the threads, that's not the problem. I checked all the vavles where the cold and hot water meet, nothing leaking there. I checked the shower faucet and that is not leaking either. I can see the pipes from my basement and it appears that the waste return pipe is the culprit. I took the waste plate off and noticed the pipe that connects to the tub has a rubber gasket around it but no putty or silicone to seal the connection. I adjusted the fitting and closed everything back up and that seemed to solve the problem but the leak is back. There is a short metal piece that fits on the inside of the tub and screws into the pipe on the outside of the tub to hold the pipe in place, one of the screw holes is stripped. Could this be my problem, I have never known a waste return pipe to leak. Should I putty the connection and silicone the threads to ensure a good seal? I have run the shower for twenty minutes at all temp ranges and the pipes dont leak, it only leaks when someone is taking a shower. Could our weight be causing the pipe to move behind the wall causing the leak? Please help, I really dont want to pay a plumber to rip out a wall, my house is less than a year old!
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Re: My master bathtub is leaking
Yes the weight of someone in the tub plus the water can push the tub down far enough to cause the leak. Unscrew the flange in the tub that holds the drain to the tub. Get some plumbers putty and make a bead to fit between the tub and flange. Make sure the rubber gasket is clean ..use a bit of plumber's putty on this as well. Get an assistant to stand in the tub while you snug things up. Snug it up tight.... replace if the threads are stripped as you said. Plus if your house is less than a year old, I'd talk to the contractor/builder if possible about warranty work...most reputable builders will cover their work for the first year.
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A picture, model, or brand of the type of faucet you have will be helpful as there are only three types of faucets. One hole, two hole, and three hole faucets. The one hole ones have two types: a single hot or cold, or a mixer valve to combine hot and cold into a single faucet. Each have a surface mount or wall mount version.
They all follow the same similar installation method. Turn off water supply. Unscrew supply lines from supply to underside of the faucet. a Plumber's wrench is needed or a spanning crescent wrench to remove the supply lines.
-Unscrew whole assemble from the sink.
-insert new one into the same hole as old one.
-from underneath, install the new faucet using the supplied hardware.
-Use plumbers tape (Teflon tape). It's often a white or pink silicon tape around the threads prior to screwing the supply lines back in. Re-connect the supply line.
-Open hot water faucet to maximum. Slowly turn on the water supply. Watch for leaks and drips. If any close the water supply and undo the supply leads and apply more Teflon tape.
- to apply tape. Start at the end and pull tightly, wind the tape into the threads in the direction of the turn. Do not wind in opposite direction.
-Try to turn on water again, turn slowly until it is at maximum, watch for leaks and drips.
-now slowly close the faucet and continue watching for leaks and drops.
If the faucet is fully closed and there is no leaks, you've done a good job... basic plumbing 101.
Now if your pipes are solder types and not screwed in supply line, and you're not confident with a torch or have little experience, ask for help from a friend who has some torch knowledge or hire a plumber. It is simple to do but requires a lot more steps than simply screwing in and unscrewing supply lines.
If the water actually stops running it might be a problem in the internal balancing valves. Some valves will restrict flows of the other water-supply: If there is slow hot water it throttles the cold water, if there is slow cold water it throttles the hot water. It is meant to stop the screaming in the shower if a toilet for example is flushed and the cold water pressure drops. Some but not all valves can be taken apart and cleaned. Turn off both shut off vavles first!
They are bad about leaking,you prob. need to replace the cartridge with new one. the seals in them get dry and shrink of they have been sitting in the box for a long time on the shelf or in a warehouse. you never know how long ago they were built and just sitting.
Make sure the internal washer is intact and there is no damage to the parts that you are connecting together. Also, do not use too much tape....one or two winds is enough and wind in in the direction of the action of the female connector (clockwise) so you don't bunch it up in one spot.
Your faucet may be leaking because of a bad seat that the rubber/plastic washer seals on...
Check the seat condition for wear, especially a "line cut" in the brass seat from where the water has eroaded the seat, this could cause your leak.
If the seat has a "line" cut in it, then you will need to purchase a seat repair tool from your local hardware store and refinish the seat.
Check and replace your plastic/rubber washer, it is 7 yrs old and maybe hard and not seating properly.
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It sounds like two problems. Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet. My bet is clog inside faucet.
Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?
If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.
If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.
If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating. New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house: Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.
Test pressure on outdoor spigot. Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.
Test pressure on water heater drain valve. This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.
If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect. If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow. Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank. Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.
If you used sealer (teflon tape) it shouldn't be leaking where the water hoses connect, unless it is still loose. If the faucet leaks water from ANYWHERE else (handles, swivel neck, spout) you have a bad faucet.
I would suggest if this is the case to replace the unit. Otherwise, remove your hoses and put pipe tape on the threads where the hoses connect, then reconnect the hoses, and tighten them down-don't strip the threads or break the connection. If it is a new faucet, it shouldn't leak anywhere when properly installed.
the spout is the end piece where the water comes out. where is it leaking ?.
when you put it back together i would suggest you use some teflon tape often called plumbers tape on all the theaded fittings as that will prevent any leaks as well.