Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
Posted by Anonymous on
check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
Posted on Mar 31, 2015
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is usually a large belt that goes around the drum to turn it ...it is either fallen off the motor pulley , broke .....or the motor may be gone in it ....not sure if there are any fuses for the motor on your dryer .
If you can tip the dryer over the bottom is usually open and you can see the motor and belt from there
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
If the pilot will not light then there is an obstruction between the gas line and the pilot. Most times there is a particle that sticks in the pilot. The pilot needs to be disassembled to clear the blockage.
Usually the the pilot is a simple construction and one of the parts has a tiny hole that easily gets clogged. Obviously this needs cleaned.
If the problem persists, the must be a problem further up. check any elements in between. You could try to blow air through the system with various parts disconnected to identify the obstruction.
Posted on May 18, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer does not heat up.
The following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, generally, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 09, 2013 | Kenmore Dryers
May 23, 2012 | Dryers
Sep 10, 2011 | KitchenAid Dryers
May 21, 2010 | General Electric DHDVH66EH Dryer
Dec 18, 2009 | Dryers
Jan 13, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
80 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: