Question about Sewing Machines

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Foot control It does not always work, and when it does it is only a few stitches at a time. I am having to pull it out and put it back in. It is only 3 weeks old.

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  • purrfur2craf May 06, 2014

    I have found out it is a faulty foot pedal.

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 1,860 Answers

Thanks for your information

Posted on May 07, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Hi I have a cee100

i spoke with support and they tell me that this is a threading issue. pull the thread back and forth, like flossing, under the plastic plate on top so the thread clicks into place. then procede with threading.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

advacak
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SOURCE: Machine stops after 2-3 stitches

open your bobbin case and un jam it thread wound around the center

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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SOURCE: stitches

Usually a walking foot is for straight forward stitching only.It keeps the many layers from shifting for you. The "hand-look" quilting takes a couple stitches forward then one back. If you look close, you will see about every other stitch is thicker and stands out more.

Posted on Sep 23, 2008

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SOURCE: Bernina 1130 intermittent no zig-zag, intermittent

Possible print problem must be addressed by a bernina dealer

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

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SOURCE: Old style 830... having trouble doing automatic stitches

Take the machine to an authorized Bernina dealer for service - make sure to fill out the service slip with any problems you are having.

Posted on Mar 05, 2010

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2 Answers

Hi I have threaded the needle but when I stitch the cotten comes out of the needle can you help please


When you thread and then start up your machine to sew, for instance, a seam, there's one more step you have to take. After you have threaded, placed your fabric under the foot, and put your presser foot down, pull a length of thread--enough so you can grab, maybe 3" or 4"--pull the thread to the back of the machine and then hold it down for the first stitch or two. You see, when it starts to take the first stitch the upper thread pulls towards the machine, and if there's not enough left over, it will pull it right back though the needle! All you have to do to get around that is to make sure the end of the upper thread is being held down with your hand long enough to take the first stitch or two--then you can let it go.

Apr 15, 2015 | Singer 1120 Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

Why does my thread knot on the back when stitching in place?


Several things to try:
Pull thread tails (both bobbin thread and upper thread) straight back and when you lower the presser foot, make sure they are held down straight back. This may or may not be enough to solve the problem, but it is simple to try, and often works. You might want to hold the thread tails while you start sewing.
Use a starter--folded piece of fabric scrap about an inch long--and begin sewing oink middle of starter. Push the fabric you want to see right up to the starter and keep sewing from the starter right onto your project without lifting the presser foot or cutting the thread. When you finish sewing, cut the little piece of thread between the starter and your project.
Before lowering presser foot, use wheel to lower your needle once and then pull up bobbin thread to top surface of your project. Then hold both bobbin and upper thread tails, lower your presser foot, and begin sewing. Release the thread tails after a few stitches.
Hope this helps. Those nasty "thread nests" are a real pain.

Jul 13, 2014 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to use the buttonhole attachment


You haven't listed the model of your machine so its hard to give you step by step instructions as there is variations in how buttonholes are done. Some machines have a 4 step sequence on a knob, it may be colour coded with a little buttonhole symbol.

Other computerised machines you just select the buttonhole style and pull down a lever behind the needle bar which lines up with the special buttonhole foot to trigger the return stitching down the buttonhole side.

Have a look in your accessories and see if you have a buttonhole foot like this
tally_girl_76.jpg If so, remove the current pressure foot and put this on, clip it onto the little metal bar you see near the front of the foot. Now put your button into the back ratchet bit of the foot, you pull it out, place the button in there and close it up firmly to hold the button in place. This helps to give you the right length buttonhole.

Now you need to start the buttonhole stitching sequence and sorry, but I don't know what your machine's is, you really need to check the manual for this bit. It may be a 1,2,3,4 sequence on a dial and probably stitch length set to 0.5 so its a closed up satin stitch.

But you stitch the butttonhole in the folowing sequence:
near bar tack, reverse down right hand long side, far bar tack, then back up left hand long side, then a couple of stitches in place to finish off.

The buttonhole foot will sit firmly on your fabric and the inner part of it will move backwards as the machine stitches, then comes back to the front again.

The computerised machines will have a little lever you pull down and these will trigger on a lug on the buttonhole foot to start the reverse stitching at the right length buttonhole. Sometimes they will stitch both long sides in the same direction too, so sequence is near bar tack, down right hand side, far bartack, then it will stitch back to front in little straight stitches, then do the left hand long side to the back and finish off.

On early machines, you actually set the stitch length to 0.5, and stitch width to 2 for sides and 4 for bartacks and made the buttonhole yourself by stitching down one long side, leaving the needle in the fabric and pivoting the work around, then stitching the bartack, then the other long side, then final bartack all manually. It can be done but obviously the new programmed ones are far easier and give consistently similar buttonholes on a garment.

ALWAYS, interface the fabric to be buttonholed, you'll never get a good practice buttonhole without interfacing in a sandwich between two layers of fabric so no point practicing without it.

And, never cut your buttonhole with the seam ripper unless you pin across the two ends first to make sure you don't have a woopsy moment and rip through the end bartack. I use a buttonhole knife and block of wood to cut and it ensures you never have a cutting disaster.

I also pull the thread tails through to the underside with a needle afterwards, tie them off and add a dab of fray stopper to make sure the buttonhole never unravels, then trim the ends off close.

I hope this helps you but obviously getting the manual to your machine would be a big help too.

Sep 21, 2011 | Husqvarna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to wind the bobbin on the singer creative touch 1030


on touch and sew models thread the machine up as normal, select straight stitch, presser foot up, take the thread from the needle and wind it round the presser foot screw a few times, open the slide plate, push the little button over, press gently on the foot control to wind the bobbin, when finished close the slide plate to drop the winder down and pull the threads to the back and start sewing

Sep 04, 2011 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have a old Elna machine. The air electronic SU 390 B. I have lost the manual and am trying to do buttonholes on a dress. I have forgotten the sequence of nob adjustments to complete the process.


Is this the duplex model with the base that fits into a sewing cabinet?

My Elna booklet lists a SP "air electronic" duplex (CL.39), if so, then it would be same stitches as the 38, yellow front panel, 7 built in stitches and automatic knob with blue markings for buttonholing.

Here is the SU manual images for buttonholing, should be exactly the same for the SP.

tally_girl_4.jpg Instructions are:
use buttonhole foot. turn the 3 dials to buttonhole marked in blue (stitch selection, width and length).
Mark length of buttonhol on the material. Place work under foot with the mark in the middile fo the foot, the start being directly below the needle. sew the first side, raise the needle. Turn stitch width dial to 2, blue. Sew a few stitches for bartack. Raise the needle.
Turn stitch width dial to 3 blue. sew the second side. stop just short of the first side. Raise the needle.
turn the stitch width dial to 4 blue. sew a few stitches for bartack. Raise the needle.
Turn stitch width dial to "fastening off stitch" blue dot. Sew a few stitches, holding back the material by hand. Raise needle, lift pressure foot and remove work, triming off threads.
Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper (put a pin across the end to avoid any nasties).

Aug 26, 2010 | Elna 2007 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Stitches are looping on the underneath and missing some stitches


Refer to the manual for cleaning.

Replace the needle with the size recommended for the type of fabric being sewn. The flat side of the needle is usually facing the back of the machine - check manual to be sure.

Always thread any sewing machine with the presser foot up. This opens the tension control so the thread can properly enter this device.

When a sewing machine is threaded with the foot down, the tension control closes and the thread cannot enter as it should

You then get loose stitches because the top thread and bobbin thread cannot make a proper stitch and the tension of the bobbin thread is pulling the top thread to the underside of the fabric.


Mar 07, 2010 | Janome Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Hi I have a cee100 singer embroidery/sewing mach. in utility mode on straight stitching i have the problem of uncontinuous stitching. Sometimes when the foot lever is pressed it will sew a few inches but...


i spoke with support and they tell me that this is a threading issue. pull the thread back and forth, like flossing, under the plastic plate on top so the thread clicks into place. then procede with threading.

Oct 31, 2008 | Singer CE-100 Futura Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

The buttonholer doesn't work right.


Most sewing experts will tell you that the best buttonholes are made with the Singer Buttonhole attachment that has been available since the 1930's. It makes perfect buttonholes every time. Everyone complains about the modern machines not making great buttonholes and not working correctly. Just do a quick search on eBay for one of these vintage attachments and your problem is solved once and for all. Don't waste all the time and money trying to get your machine fixed to only find it does not make good buttonholes...the best solution has always been the buttonhole attachments made by Singer, which the professionals use even with modern machines. They can be found in low or slant shank.

Oct 04, 2008 | Singer 2662

2 Answers

How do i make a buttonhole on this machine?


I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zig zag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.

1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.

2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.

3. Put the zig zag foot on the machine.

4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.

5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zig zag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zig zag foot.

6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zig zag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.

7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.

8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zig zag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.

9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.

10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.

11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.



Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.

GOOD LUCK.

Aug 28, 2007 | Singer Featherweight 132Q Mechanical...

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