Question about Juki MO-644D Mechanical Sewing Machine

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My blades won't cut, they seem to be rolling rather than cutting

It was sewing alright, until I was serging a pair of jeans, & it baulked at the tickness of the side seam, now it won't cut. The blades seem to have slipped

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Check bottom blade,it should be flush with needle plate. when you turn hand wheel by hand the top knife should be even along the length of the bottom one .the top knige is held by a 7 or 8 mm screw [looking straight at you] slacken this ,turn wheel till knife come to bdc and push the top blade against the bottom one. however if the edges of the knives are shiny or worn ,it will never cut. you can buy them relativly cheaply [eastman staples huddersfield is main juki agent].

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

Had a pin jammed in upper knife now wont cut. Do I need to replace the knife?


more than likely as the knife blade would have been damaged and blunted

Nov 11, 2015 | Janome 6234XL Overlocker

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I have a babylock evolve serger. It serges fine w/o the blade engaged. Once I engage the blade, the stitches don't hit the fabric


most Sergers have a blade adjustment that allows you to move the blade closer to the sewing plate as well as further away sounds like yours may be to close to plate. Open the door to the underside of your sewing machine; their should be a round knob at the base of the blade are. Turn the blade until it moves away from the sewing plate. test and see if you have adjusted it enough so as not to cut your stitching off. hope this helps

Jan 11, 2015 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I adjust the seam allowance to cut 1/4 inch


Hello
To the right of the cutter, on the front cover, there are markings indicating various seam allowances. Placing the fabric edge along the specific seam allowance will automatically cut off the required amount of fabric and the serged seam will be on the seam line. Do a test sample first to ensure that the marked lines refer to the left needle or to the single needle that you are using.
Yes, there is a blade position dial too. It is located closest to you on the left side on the bottom. The larger the number, the wider the seam. Again make a few test samples to ensure the results that you are seeking.
Happy stitching.

Sep 10, 2014 | Brother 1034D Serger Sewing Machine

1 Answer

How do you sew over a thick seam on a pair of jeans


You didn't mention your model, but there is a small jig you can buy that will lift up the presser foot to ride over the seam. It's called a "Jean-a-ma-jig," by Dritz, and It only costs around $5.00. You can probably find it at a local fabric store, or you can get it from eBay or Amazon.

Jun 16, 2014 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Sewing jeans hems


You need a couple of things. One is to flatten the seams before you try to sew them. One of the best is to spread the hems on a wooden cutting board or simiilar smooth surface and beat the hems flat with a flat faced hammer. This is an official sewing hammer: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tools_and_supplies/ and it will compress the fabric so it doesn't lift your presser foot up and let the tension off the top thread (which is what's causing your looping problem).

For crossing thick seams, you need a shim to keep the presser foot flat while sewing. These are usually called hump jumpers or jean-a-majigs, and are a couple of bucks. Or you can use a fold of fabric in the same way: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbYenXIDaDk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKdW_vIZLBo

Alternatively, you can do the jeans hem alteration that pros will charge you more for (because it's "fashionable"), and it's also faster and easier. Often called Euro-hemming: http://www.sewmuchado.com/2011/06/tutorial-how-to-hem-jeans-and-keep-the-original-hem.html

Feb 03, 2014 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Baby lock serger knife disengages


it might be a good idea to have the serger check to see if there is
a timing problem

Mar 20, 2013 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Correct settings for 804dsp serger to sew a sweater.


Are you wanting to use the serger to sew a hand knitted sweater together? or do you mean a sweat shirt knit or other knit fabric. If it is the first option, I'd say don't bother, as you can't do it with the blades working because it will cut your knitting and the wool will unravel in the seams.

If it is the second option then I would start with the following settings.

Four thread stitch, so both needles and the upper and lower loopers threaded. Set tension on all four dials to 5, stitch length to between 2 and 3, and differential on zero. Move the cutting blade over to the right for a wider seam. Now test stitch on some fabric scraps double layer and see what the seam is looking like.

Now you want to adjust a couple of things: firstly width of the seam. Is it the size you want? If you'd like it a little narrower, then adjust the cutting blade back a little to the left to narrow the seam slightly - just depends on the fabric weight. For example if it is a loose open weave like boucle you would want a wide seam to make sure it holds the fibres fully.

Now you can adjust the upper and lower loopers to get the thread wrapping around the edge looking nice. Look at the seam and the fabric inside it. Is it tunnelling and pulling up the fabric? if so, release tension on both loopers a half number to put more thread into the seam. Test stitch again and see if the loopers are meeting nicely on the cut edge of the fabric. Upper and lower looper threads should be meeting right on the cut edge so if this isn't happening and one showing on the other side, then tighten the looser one by half a number and test again.

If the threads are hanging off the edge then you have the choice of moving the blade to the right to cut less fabric off, or tightening up the looper tensions to pull in the thread.

That's it, hope this helps you to master your serger.

If you'd like some images and further explanations of other stitching you can do with your overlocker, then Debbie Coswell has some great information on line at www.sewing.about.com, just search "overlocker" to find the specific pages.


Good luck

Oct 11, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

I have just been given a huskylock 341. The tension is off. How do I correct this?


Have you used an overlocker before? If not, I'd suggest that you obtain a user manual for it as they are completely different to a sewing machine and at some point you will need to rethread it. You can purchase one from here
http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/3923709707.html

This machine makes three and four thread seams, which is a combination of two needles and two loopers. For the three thread seam you can use either the left or right needle which gives you different sized seams. For the four thread you use both needles, one goes through the middle of the seam and the other is on the left side securing the seam. tally_girl_70.jpg On most overlockers you are able to move the cutting blade too and this will reduce or increase the amount of fabric being trimmed from the right side.

This page http://sewing.about.com/od/sergersoverlock/ss/serger.htm will give you some general information on sergers/overlockers too.

So adjusting tension is a matter of changing the tension on the top and lower looper threads to close up against the cut edge, or moving the blade over to make the seam a little wider or narrower. You may also need to finess the left needle tension so that the seam doesn't pull apart, I always test serge two layers and then pull open from the right side and see if the needle thread is showing (it will show a little bit but you dont want it so loose that it pulls open. Only tighten the needles in very small increments though, as you'll break threads and needles if you turn them up too tight.

Hard to explain without seeing what your machine is seaming now. But as a rule of thumb, start with all four tension dials (or 3 if doing a three thread seam) on 5. If the tension dials are correctly calibrated then this should give you a pretty good seam. You may wish to lengthen the stitches, I usually work with stitch length of 2.5 (same as your sewing machine stitch length) Stitch length will be a dial on the right side beside the flywheel or in front of the blade area. The blade adjustment should be a little knob near the blade area too. There will be a lower fixed blade and a moving upper blade which sits against the lower one, they work like scissors to trim the fabric. So to adjust the blade, you will need to take the pressure off the upper blade, then wind the knob to move it left or right.

Different weights of fabric will behave differently on the overlocker so you do need to adjust tension for each new project. For example, if seaming a jersey knit you'd use a four thread seam, this gives elasticity and strength and you can join two garment pieces with this seam. You'd probably make a 6mm or 7mm wide seam, the left needle will secure the fabric and the loopers will encase the fabric smoothly while the right needle secures them and gives extra strenth to the seam.

But on organza for example, I would make a very narrow three thread seam using the right needle as the organza will roll inside the overlocking if you cut the fabric too wide.

And on something like curtains I would neaten the edge with a wide 3 thread seam using the left needle to get a very wide seam, the fabric wont roll so you'd need to loosen the two loopers a little to smoothly encase the cut edge.
tally_girl_71.jpg For example, on this image above you can see that the looper threads are laying a little off the edge of the fabric in places, particularly the lower looper, (the side that looks like Y's where you can't really see the middle needle thread), so I would tighten the lower looper about .5 on its dial, then test again.

I hope that this makes sense to you, you will need to test serge, and adjust one dial at a time, test again and look at the result, then maybe adjust another thread until you are getting a smooth looking seam.

Sep 05, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I have the Janome MO644D. The seam is extending far past the edge of the fabric with really big loops. It almost looks like a tension problem, but I've tried adjusting it, flossing the thread through...


s-l300-pupyr0ualaj20obfvyre1rzh-1-0.jpg I think the right 'finger' on the plate is out too far. You may need to adjust your cutting blades further to the right until your cutting blades are in line with the right finger on the plate. Sometimes I have forgotten that I set my cutting blades for a rolled hem and then went back to regular tensions and plate but forgot to adjust my blades back to regular serging.

Jun 16, 2017 | Juki MO-644 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Letture leaf edging


From "Serge With Confidence" by Nancy Zieman:

Set the machine up for a 3-thread rolled edge. Normal width; length 1 - 2.

Use Woolly Nylon in the loopers & regular thread in the needle.

Lock or disengage the cutting blade.

Guide fabric along the right edge of the presser foot.

Stretch and equal amount from fron to back while serging.

Lower the differential feed, if available to about 0.6.

Serge at a slow to moderate speed.

Practice with scraps first.

After serging, gently stretch & release the fabric edge after serging.

Apr 01, 2010 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

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