Question about LG LRSC26925 Side by Side Refrigerator

7 Answers

Lg fridge lrsc 26925tt inop fridge lights-inop display

Looked like the power was off on this fridge first time this morning..first off noticed no lights inside fridge then found the display to be dark as well. verified breaker and voltage at receptacle. unplugged the unit and re-plugged it in and it did work fine for miutes or an hour or two at best .Did find inside freezer lights working at all times. when the unit resets and all is on ,compressor seems to run and sound fine and will keep temp with no problems. there are no diagnostic codes displayed or any abnormality noticed when the unit is on and running. suddenly unit goes off except freezer lights as if it lost power all together. It might come back on its own but seems to reset almost every time by removing and re-installing power cord to receptacle

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  • 8 more comments 
  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 22, 2009

    fridge is totally inop except for freezer lights...no compressor no fridge lights no electronic display ....un-plugging fridge and re-plugging brings it al back.It might last for 5 seconds or 1 hr

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 22, 2009

    this ubit does not display any trouble codes such as FF .The ice maker was problematic from the word go and is not in use. The only thing that functions to this fridge while in this state is the freezer lights. As time goes along un-plugging and plugging the unit back in will bring everything back but will only run several seconds now.(yesterday it seemed to stay running considerably longer and now items in the fridge are warm)I do hear the compressor starting and it does appear to sound fine so far.This unit has been down long enough to be defrosted and I am removing rear panels to verify condenser fan operation.Ive assumed the whole time the thing could be popping off on high head temp and shutting down.would not be suprised to have failed circuit board as some of our other fine LG products has required these allready ...machine is under 3 yrs old.curious if any recalls or warranty could be in effect here.

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 23, 2009

    i did thorougly clean the condenser coils and compressor area and verified condenser fan operation .The fan looks like a toy ...prob ought to order that along with a very pricey main board or go down to the hvac store and put a real fan in it.

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 26, 2009

    compressor fan lights display work fine ....suddenly all goes out...unplug/plug back in ..all works fine for a few seconds

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 26, 2009

    was looking for more prolific diagnostic pertaining to this specific model.oredered service manual from LG

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 27, 2009

    stiil seeking solution

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 27, 2009

    new advise please

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 27, 2009

    still not working

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 27, 2009

    It was in fact the control board...330 bucks for the thing delivered.

  • Jeff Barton
    Jeff Barton Jun 27, 2009

    thanks for the answer...I had fixed it yesterday but was waiting for the right response instead of a bunch of mumbo jumbo like three phase power and refrigerator was outside...lol thanks

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7 Answers

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You have a problem with the control board it sounds like...after while overheats and then shorts out and shuts down. pulling the cord resets it and the cycle begins again.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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Sounds like controller board faulty.charges power than discharges.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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Hi,
well i my view u should take it to service center as it is 3 years old so it needs some maintenance and fridge generally has 5 years warranty so it would be advisable to go to service center.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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Jeff are you located in Vegas?

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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  • Master
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Hi,

Check the below mentioned points :-

  • Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in securely
  • Check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker
How to check fuse :-

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/fusebox.php

How to reset circuit breaker :-

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/circuitbreakers.php
  • Test the power outlet for current
How to test outlet for current :-

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/voltage_test.php

  • Inspect the electrical cord for damage
How to check an electrical cord :-

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/corddamage.php
  • Eliminate use of an extension cord, if any is being used

  • Check the outlet damage
How to test outlet voltage :-

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/homemaintenance/electrical/outletvoltage.php

I hope the above points would be more than enough to fix the issue.

Thanks for using "Fixya".

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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More than likely the main control board has failed. It is located behind the metal panel, on the rear left of the unit. I know of NO way to actually check it. When you replace it, the new board must be programmed properly, or it will not work. :)


A test lead is a wire that allows you to directly connect the solenoid to 120V for testing purposes. The solenoid is located in the rear of the unit, near the compressor. I would suggest that you call for service, if you are having questions such as these. :)





, there are line voltage switches that will carry your 23 amps, a contactor is normally used, I will look for the switch.

Your hoist, is it single phase?, I am assuming both comp and hoist are. If so wire the hoist up like the compressor.

12/3 wire, I am assuming is two for power and one for safety ground?

Problem is I don't know how far your runs will be, and wire size is a function of many things, but the main two are current [amps] and DISTANCE for voltage drop calculations.

The wire size is easily resolved, go to where you buy the wire, take the amp data for both with you, tell them you need to run it X distance and they can figure it right there and then, plus whatever might be on sale.

They may have your in line switch too, which is a GREAT IDEA< breakers are horrible switches.





Slow down. A three phase motor that has three leads, can be any color or combination it makes no difference, they simply made one lead white to give a marker for rotation and reference, they are all the same.


You have a single phase supply taken off something to allow the pressure switch to trip the relay and start the motor.

You think it is 480. but it measures 240 to what L1 2 3?

Three phase is measured line to line to line, and it sounds like you have 240 if it measures that way from terminal to terminal.

The ground is simply frame or chassis usually a green wire, and has nothing to do with the operational circuit, only safety.

Look up some common compressor wiring diagrams for three phase, I think all you need is the three lines on the L terminals, and one should give an indication of which lead goes on one of the terminals.

In other words the white wire is designed for keeping you from running the motor backwards and destroying the compressor.

There should be something obvious somewhere that tells you where this white line goes, but make sure you know what direction it should run, and take no chances or you will crash the compressor.








Are you sure that the freezer is getting power? If you can't tell if anything is on at all, plug something else into the same outlet, such as a small lamp or hair dryer. If you have power, it's time to troubleshoot. If you don't have power, check the fuse or circuit breaker. If you do have power, does the interior light work, or do you hear a fan turning inside? You can try setting the thermostat to a colder setting. Does the compressor kick in? If that doesn't work, you can begin checking the same items that would cause the freezer to freeze poorly.

Your thermostat controls whether the compressor is running or not. When the thermostat senses the internal temperature is lower than the setting, it turns off. If the thermostat won't cycle off, the thermostat may be bad and you will have to replace it. You may also have the temperature set too high in the freezer. Try adjusting the thermostat to a lower temperature. If this turns the compressor off, you may have had it set too high. With the help of a freezer thermometer, you can find a more ideal setting that will keep your food cold, but not so cold that the compressor is always running. If raising the temperature setting doesn't help, it may be a problem with the thermostat and you will need to replace it.
If your thermostat is working properly, there's a chance that you have low levels of refrigerant in the sealed system. If this is where the symptoms lead you, you need to contact a professional appliance repair person. Only an EPA certified technician can legally work on a sealed system. If you attempt to do work on this system, you will void the warranty.
If this is a new refrigerator/freezer, it will run for a long time, almost constantly, before it gets cooled enough to stabilize the interior temperature. Allow up to 24 hours for it to stabilize.
Another common cause is a leaky gasket. Try putting a dollar bill between the gasket and the frame of the freezer as you close the door. If the dollar comes out without resistance, then you need a new door gasket.
When installing a refrigerator or freezer door gasket, you should allow the gasket to adjust to room temperature before removing it from the carton. When carrying or handling the gasket, you want to carry it by the corners. This will help to prevent breakage of the flexible magnet. Should the magnet be found to be broken, it will NOT impair its effectiveness. If the gasket is deformed or twisted from long storage, you can heat the deformed section with an electric heater, hair dryer, or a 150-300 watt light bulb. Holding the heat source about 1 inch to 3 or 4 inches from the gasket, move the heat source back and forth to maintain even warming. Apply heat until gasket has resumed its original shape. This can also correct an already installed, deformed gasket. Make sure you use caution so as not to damage the inner door panel.
Make sure that the freezer has enough air clearance on all sides. There is a condenser coil on the back or under the back near the compressor that needs to radiate heat away from itself. If it can't radiate enough heat, it will cool poorly and will run for longer periods of time.
Verify that the door light switch is working properly. Push the switch with your finger to verify the light is turning off. If the light stays on, it will actually warn the interior of the freezer. Fix or replace the switch if it is faulty.
Modern freezers start and stop very frequently to maintain an even temperature. They may run for a long time initially. This is especially true if you have just put a lot of warm food in the freezer, or if it is very hot and humid. It can take several hours to get back to the cool temperature you have it set for after putting a large amount of food in it.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 22, 2009

    the condensor fan motor is bad!! Pretty soon the compressor will be
    too! Take the back cover off and put a fan blowing on the compressor
    this will help until the fan is replaced!!!

    ER FF is a freezer fan error. Basically the mainboard is not receiving
    a feedback signal from the freezer fan motor within 65 seconds. When
    this happens the error code will come up and then none of the buttons
    will work.

    You can clear out the error code by unplugging and
    plugging the machine back in. The error code will come back if the
    problem persists. Check around the freezer fan motor fan blades to see
    if ice buildup is interfering with the operation. Clearing out this ice
    may fix the issue.

    If the problem comes back, then the fan motor may be getting ready to go out or the unit may not be defrosting properly.

    Regardless of the configuration of freezer location to
    fresh foods compartment, as a general rule when the compressor is
    running the evaporator fan (in freezer) and the condenser fan (near
    compressor) should also be running. If all OK, look for frost build up
    on freezer wall (usually the back wall) indicating a defrost problem
    (most often a defrost heater failure, but can be an electronic control
    board or other component) Check that the door gaskets are sealing. Is
    there an ice maker?

    www.fixya.com/support/p94926-lg_lrsc...side.../solutions






  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 22, 2009

    The problem is most likely that it is on the porch and not that its not working properly.
    When
    its cold out a fridge does nt usually get enough run time to keep
    things frozen in the freezer,,,thats usually what I would get a call
    for. "It would be the freezer thawing".
    To test this and as a
    matter of fact to continue any diagnosis you must move the unit into a
    warmer room. I would recommend at least 58 to 60 degrees minumal.

    Oh
    and one thing I forgot to mention. The oil in the newer Refrigerators
    that have the R134 coolant tends to thicken when its cold and the
    compressor does nt run much.
    R12 refrigerators which had mineral oil would work totally differently out on a porch.

    When
    the r134 oil sits in the cold it tends to get waxy,,,not a big deal
    until the compressed freon makes its way to the tiny capillary tube,,
    at this point the freon flow could be halted by the waxy parts of the
    oil not flowing through that tube. In a room thats warm the oil remains
    oily and mixes with the liquid freon easily then makes its way to the
    capillary tube as a liquid,,,at this point in the system
    the liquid freon and oil mix is warm so it easily flows through the
    tiny orifice in the capillary tubing. At the other end of that tube
    that liquid sprays out into a much larger tube this is where the cold
    is created. Since the size of that tube is much larger the cold oil is
    not a problem, it can still freely flow back to the compressor which is
    quite warm and start the process all over again.

    I hope
    that explanation is easy to understand. So there are the reasons why
    the newer r134 refrigerators do nt do well outside and work differently
    than the older R12 models. To verify which you have find the plate on
    the refrigerator where your model and serial number is,,right on there
    it will say which freon is installed. It will be in the fridge part.

    The freezer is not defrosting itself, and frost is building up in the
    freezer (where all the cold is produced) this will block the airflow IN
    to the refrigerator section. The offending part is usually the
    "Adaptive Defrost Control Board"...you will need to totally defrost the
    freezer, at least 24 hours with the machine unplugged and both doors
    wide open, then replace the control board (located in the top of the
    refrigerator section) and usually available from your local appliance
    parts distributor.



    If the dispenser is lighting up but nothing is happening then
    either a door switch is bad or the main board which has relays on it
    may be bad, no real way to test this, other than to replace the parts.
    I would replace the main board with all the relays on it IN the
    dispenser, as it is the main control unit.



    You may find a schematic behind the refrigerator, a sticker on the
    back, or sometimes a folded up piece of paper hidden behind the
    kickplate, at the bottom front of the refrigerator.



  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 26, 2009

    I found out that if I shut the system off and turn the PSU off (or
    unplug the system) whenI come to turn the system on again it will boot
    up fine first time. Obviously I have to turn the PSU on or plug it back
    it. So it would appear the PSU is being stupid LOL



    Someone mentioned that it sounds like the new Antec PSUs have a power
    disruption detection on the 12V line. Obviously I've never heard of
    this and wonder if there is any weight to this claim.



    Right now I am contemplating purchasing yet another PSU, I think this
    one will be an Enermax (just to be safe LOL). If it works the Antec
    will go in my upcoming system, if not

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jun 26, 2009

    came to power up about an hour ago and still got the same **** I've been getting for a while now.



    I could possibly try a different PSU, my brother says I can borrow his,
    but that's a no-name 400watt POS so there's no guarentees it would work
    even if the Vapochill were fine.



    keeps going on about the sensor and that
    there most likely is a problem there. He also said something about
    changing the voltage to the compressor won't help



    Run me down exactly what it does and which sensor we're talking
    about.... I haven't owned one personally but we 404'd Fliptones 404PE
    and played with that for nearly a year and had alsorts of probs so just
    need reminding of error codes etc etc...



    Tis sounding like powerdraw tho by the compressor...


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Hi there,

First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, read on.

Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet.

If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these: 

Wiring 
Thermostat
Defrost timer
Compressor
Overload and/or relay

Good Luck!!
THanks

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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