Question about LG LRSC26925 Side by Side Refrigerator
Looked like the power was off on this fridge first time this morning..first off noticed no lights inside fridge then found the display to be dark as well. verified breaker and voltage at receptacle. unplugged the unit and re-plugged it in and it did work fine for miutes or an hour or two at best .Did find inside freezer lights working at all times. when the unit resets and all is on ,compressor seems to run and sound fine and will keep temp with no problems. there are no diagnostic codes displayed or any abnormality noticed when the unit is on and running. suddenly unit goes off except freezer lights as if it lost power all together. It might come back on its own but seems to reset almost every time by removing and re-installing power cord to receptacle
You have a problem with the control board it sounds like...after while overheats and then shorts out and shuts down. pulling the cord resets it and the cycle begins again.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
Sounds like controller board faulty.charges power than discharges.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
well i my view u should take it to service center as it is 3 years old so it needs some maintenance and fridge generally has 5 years warranty so it would be advisable to go to service center.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
Jeff are you located in Vegas?
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
Check the below mentioned points :-
How to reset circuit breaker :-
I hope the above points would be more than enough to fix the issue.
Thanks for using "Fixya".
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
More than likely the main control board has failed. It is located
behind the metal panel, on the rear left of the unit. I know of NO way
to actually check it. When you replace it, the new board must be
programmed properly, or it will not work. :)
A test lead is a wire that allows you to directly connect the solenoid to 120V for testing purposes. The solenoid is located in the rear of the unit, near the compressor. I would suggest that you call for service, if you are having questions such as these. :)
, there are line voltage switches that will carry your 23 amps, a contactor is normally used, I will look for the switch.
Your hoist, is it single phase?, I am assuming both comp and hoist are. If so wire the hoist up like the compressor.
12/3 wire, I am assuming is two for power and one for safety ground?
Problem is I don't know how far your runs will be, and wire size is a function of many things, but the main two are current [amps] and DISTANCE for voltage drop calculations.
The wire size is easily resolved, go to where you buy the wire, take the amp data for both with you, tell them you need to run it X distance and they can figure it right there and then, plus whatever might be on sale.
They may have your in line switch too, which is a GREAT IDEA< breakers are horrible switches.
Slow down. A three phase motor that has three leads, can be any color or combination it makes no difference, they simply made one lead white to give a marker for rotation and reference, they are all the same.
You have a single phase supply taken off something to allow the pressure switch to trip the relay and start the motor.
You think it is 480. but it measures 240 to what L1 2 3?
Three phase is measured line to line to line, and it sounds like you have 240 if it measures that way from terminal to terminal.
The ground is simply frame or chassis usually a green wire, and has nothing to do with the operational circuit, only safety.
Look up some common compressor wiring diagrams for three phase, I think all you need is the three lines on the L terminals, and one should give an indication of which lead goes on one of the terminals.
In other words the white wire is designed for keeping you from running the motor backwards and destroying the compressor.
There should be something obvious somewhere that tells you where this white line goes, but make sure you know what direction it should run, and take no chances or you will crash the compressor.
Are you sure that the freezer is getting power? If you can't tell if anything is on at all, plug something else into the same outlet, such as a small lamp or hair dryer. If you have power, it's time to troubleshoot. If you don't have power, check the fuse or circuit breaker. If you do have power, does the interior light work, or do you hear a fan turning inside? You can try setting the thermostat to a colder setting. Does the compressor kick in? If that doesn't work, you can begin checking the same items that would cause the freezer to freeze poorly.
Your thermostat controls whether the compressor is running or not. When the thermostat senses the internal temperature is lower than the setting, it turns off. If the thermostat won't cycle off, the thermostat may be bad and you will have to replace it. You may also have the temperature set too high in the freezer. Try adjusting the thermostat to a lower temperature. If this turns the compressor off, you may have had it set too high. With the help of a freezer thermometer, you can find a more ideal setting that will keep your food cold, but not so cold that the compressor is always running. If raising the temperature setting doesn't help, it may be a problem with the thermostat and you will need to replace it.
If your thermostat is working properly, there's a chance that you have low levels of refrigerant in the sealed system. If this is where the symptoms lead you, you need to contact a professional appliance repair person. Only an EPA certified technician can legally work on a sealed system. If you attempt to do work on this system, you will void the warranty.
If this is a new refrigerator/freezer, it will run for a long time, almost constantly, before it gets cooled enough to stabilize the interior temperature. Allow up to 24 hours for it to stabilize.
Another common cause is a leaky gasket. Try putting a dollar bill between the gasket and the frame of the freezer as you close the door. If the dollar comes out without resistance, then you need a new door gasket.
When installing a refrigerator or freezer door gasket, you should allow the gasket to adjust to room temperature before removing it from the carton. When carrying or handling the gasket, you want to carry it by the corners. This will help to prevent breakage of the flexible magnet. Should the magnet be found to be broken, it will NOT impair its effectiveness. If the gasket is deformed or twisted from long storage, you can heat the deformed section with an electric heater, hair dryer, or a 150-300 watt light bulb. Holding the heat source about 1 inch to 3 or 4 inches from the gasket, move the heat source back and forth to maintain even warming. Apply heat until gasket has resumed its original shape. This can also correct an already installed, deformed gasket. Make sure you use caution so as not to damage the inner door panel.
Make sure that the freezer has enough air clearance on all sides. There is a condenser coil on the back or under the back near the compressor that needs to radiate heat away from itself. If it can't radiate enough heat, it will cool poorly and will run for longer periods of time.
Verify that the door light switch is working properly. Push the switch with your finger to verify the light is turning off. If the light stays on, it will actually warn the interior of the freezer. Fix or replace the switch if it is faulty.
Modern freezers start and stop very frequently to maintain an even temperature. They may run for a long time initially. This is especially true if you have just put a lot of warm food in the freezer, or if it is very hot and humid. It can take several hours to get back to the cool temperature you have it set for after putting a large amount of food in it.
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, read on.
Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet.
If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these:
Overload and/or relay
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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