How to remove two phillips head carb screws into the body on Victa Vantage 160cc?

On assuming its fitted with a victa 2 stroke engine in which case unscrew the 3 cross head screws on the top plastic cover and remove it. You should then see the top of the engine and the recoil starter. Undo and remove the 3 bolts holding the starter to the engine. Remove the starter housing gently as there will be a large o ring under the stater. Once the starter is off you can undo the centre bolt and remove the recoil pulley and spring. When refitting starter smear a little oil on the large o ring to stop it from being damaged

Remove air filter cover. Remove air filter. Remove the 3 10mm screws mounting the air filter housing assembly and carb to motor. You will need new gaskets to install the new carb. Gaskets: 16221-883-800 2ea., 16212-ZL8-000, 16228-ZL8-000, and the gasket for the back of the air cleaner mount 17228-ZMO-000. You can buy the carb for these on line for about $14, 16100-Z0L-023. Most take a NGK PLUG BPR6ES.

should be on side of actual throttle body attached to throttle shaft with two retaining screws either torx head,or possibly phillips head screw.unplug sensor and remove screws.install in reverse order.

FIRST DO NOT SMOKE while working with gasoline I can not express this enough! There are two filters on my 2000 VS 1400 GLP there both located in the inlet on the carb sink needle. You'll need a repair manual they can be found on ebay about $20 + shipping. The seat has to be removed to get to the gas tank bolts (10mm socket) rear seat first then the front then the gas tank bolts. Lift the gas tank you will see the two fuel line's and the petcock turn the petcock flat screw like till its horizontal then remove the fuel lines at the gas tank they can be left in place but do drain them. Air box to carburetor boot's are next. The side cover's need to be removed too. You'l have to remove the carbs one at a time. Before you do this count the number of threads left on the throttle cable where it connects to the throttle. This is critical for carburetor synchronization. Remove the choke cables. Front choke cable is held in place by a phillips head screw remove it the choke assembly should lift off the plunger that feeds extra fuel in the intake stream. The rear threads into the body this is plastic be careful they damage easly. Remove the float bowel drain screw prepare for fuel draining there should be a drain tube on the bottom of the float bowel place the tube into a used soda bottle if it's clean you could drain whats in the bottle into the gas tank. Counter clock wise turn the drain screw out but do not remove it when you see gas in the soda bottle & it stops move on. Once there drain'd turn over the carb remove the 4 phillips head screws you will see the floats they will have to be removed by removing the pin going thew the float towers be very carefull these carb bodys are made from pot metal very brittle & break easily. Once there out of the way you will see the sink needle assembly held in place by another phillips screw remove it the sink needle needs to removed can be done with needle nose pliers then the filter can be seen remove it very carefully either replace or spray it carb cleaner any auto part's store sell it. in the opposite direction of flow that should clean it. Reverse assembly. I hope this helps you fix your own bike a few more suggestion use a big old bathroom towel to work on your carb, parts don't roll away into never never land. Take your time and pictures for reference's if needed.

One of three things is occuring here. The IDLE SPEED SCREW (Phillips head) on the throttle plate is screwed in way too far. The L and H mixture screws are open way too much allowing the carb to use excessive fuel, even on startup. Those 2 screws may need adjusting. The metering lever in your carb is not adjusted flush with the carb body flange and is holding the gas needle open constantly. Check these things and post back.

The air mix control motor is accessible from the front passenger-side floor board area. From that vantage point, look toward the heater and under. The air mix control motor is a black plastic housing with a wire connector and a rod that connects to a white plastic air mix control linkage. Disconnect the wire connector, remove the rod, and remove the screws that hold the unit into the bottom of the heater. You will need a stubby Phillips head screwdriver or a Phillips bit on a small ratchet as the clearance between the unit and the floor is not enough for a standard screw driver. There is also a small piece of dash colored plastic trim that can be removed for easier access.

The 2 stroke engine on your machine has a diaphragm carburetor with 3 carb adjusting screws. The small Phillips-head one adjusts your IDLE speed as it pushes against the throttle plate lever that the throttle cable is connected too. Turn it in, the idle speed increases...out, it slows down. This screw is on the exterior of the carburetor. Now there are also 2 adjusting screws that meter the amount of fuel that goes through the L (idle) and H (high speed) fuel circuits. They typically have odd ends on them to make them "tamper-proof" per EPA regulations in the US. You can acquire or make a tool to turn them with. Ebay has them. A word of advice. If you machine won't "throttle-up" satisfactorily, then turn the L screw (stamped on carb body) out about 1/4 of a turn. That sometimes cures the "bogging-down" acceleration issue many people encounter. These carbs are very sensitive, so don't "play" with the settings too much. See this instruction sheet from a main carburetor manufacturer. Hint: I jam small automotive-type plastic wire connectors on the screw heads to turn them.
http://www.zamacarb.com/tipspage.html

The battery is located under the seat in a plastic looking engine case. You must first remove all the allen head screws from the plastic body. you also have two 10mm nuts that go through the frame in the back end remove those. lift the body to the side and you will see three holes in the side of the battery case. There are three phillips head screws. The case seperates and two batteries are held in with two allen head bolts and a metal strap.

Disconnect power to dryer. Open door, remove phillips screw from 4 and 8 O'Clock positions, close door. Use putty knife (preferably a plastic one to prevent scratching) to push in the two clips holding the top to the front panel, then swing the top back, revealing the phillips screws holding the front panel onto the body of the dryer. Remove them and un-hook door switch and drum light connections, allowing total removal of dryer front panel. Remove 4 phillips head screws retaining front drum support and lift it up just a bit to remove it. Reach back under drum to the left side to release belt, allowing drum to come out of dryer.

sounds like your intake valve is not seating properly. remove the head an clean with wire brush. you normaly can reuse the head gasket.dont over torque the head bolts.30-40 lbs should do it