Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling
Everytime it rains my ac system goes down. On the infinity control the display shows sens error where the outside temp would normally display. I also get a generic system malfunction error (call Carrier) on the display. If I heat up the outside air thermistor with a hair dryer, the outside temp eventually comes back on the display and the system usually starts back up. I have an FE4A air handler, infinity control and 2,5 ton 15 seer compressor. How can I get trouble shoot guide in order to interogate error codes? I also observed system com error (16) flashing on the led on the control board. Is that error related to the sens error ?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On the air handler take the top panel off, look to the left on the inside, this will give you general information on the unit on a stampede plate. This will
give you the date of manufactuer as well.
On the outdoor unit, there is a stamped plate on the
condensing unit. Should have year of manufactuer, it
should also say how many pounds of freon should be
in it. The Model number is what you need to know
to find out how big it is.
024=24,000 BTU= 2ton unit
030=30,000 BTU=2 1/2ton
040=40,000BTU= 3 1/2ton
and so on.
My guess is that it is an older unit and since I have
been installling units since 1995 I have only known
any older units to be at least a 10 SEER and no more.
Posted on Feb 17, 2010
SOURCE: I have a carrier infinity
A burned or pitted contactor will/can cause a unit to not run. Outside fan. Just thinking out loud. Start with low voltage check at t.stat then check outside low volt. Set t.stat to on. If fan engages at least your transformer is good. Next set calling for cool. Drop t.stat 68-70. If nothing happens go outside and with a screwdriver depress the contactor in. If fan and compressor kicks in change the contactor. If contactor is pulled in check outside fan. Remove the wires from the compressor and see if the fan will run . If it does you have eliminated start components as good. The compressor has to be check. It needs to be ohmed out. Turn off power at disconnect. Pull the cover on the compressor. Check between pins; then pins to ground. Open or infinite is good.Have you checked fuses. Like small 3-5 amp fuses
Posted on Jul 03, 2008
SOURCE: Carrier air handler tonnage?
That is a fairly large difference. It is usually ok to have the inside evap. coil and blower up to 1 ton larger than the outside condenser. That will make the unit slightly more efficient as well as less likely to freeze up on low airflow situations. It is not recommended to install a new condenser on an old evap coil. There has been a lot of changes to the design of the coils in the last little while. For example a 10 year old 2 ton coil may only have 3 cubic feet of volume but a new 2 ton coil may have 4 cubit feet of volume.
There are many factors that may have infulenced the decision on what size condenser to install. Many of which can only be done by visiting the home and doing alot of work, checking the duct sizing bioth supply and return, inspecting the insulation and windows of the home etc. etc. Most of the time that never gets done. You can blame the contractor for not doing a complete check, but at the same time you can blame the customer because many contractors that are that good loose the job to a cheaper bid that did not no any of the research. It is a catch 22 for everyone involved.
There is ALOT more to sizing equipment that many people think, sadly that also includes many HVAC contractors. Way too many people use "rule of thumbs" or flat out "guess".
Sorry for the rant but your queston can only be answered by a good well educated HVAC contractor visiting your home. That type of a contractor is getting hard to find these days in such a price competetive world.
Posted on Oct 14, 2008
I would suspect you have a problem in the defrost circuit of your heat pump. there are a couple of things you can try. first just run the system on emergency heat and see what happens. you could have a defrost board that is shorting when it kicks into defrost. it sends a signal back to the furnace so it will come on during defrost. if you do not blow a fuse as long as you are running in emergency heat, i would suspect the defrost control board. also you could have a dead short in the wire that runs from the "w" terminal on furnace control board, out to the heat pump. keep in mind that any of the wires could be the cause and i am just tying to give you the most common things. your furnace will still run if you unhook all the low voltage wiring out at the heat pump. if you do this and stop blowing fuses. you know it is something on that wiring. goodl luck.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
I am pretty sure you have a low charge and the pressure switch is kicking it off. probably just a pound or two however the accumulater will sometimes hold more.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
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