Question about RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

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RCA HDTV Monitor D52W20 turns on and off by itself

When we turn the tv on it comes on for a few seconds then makes a small popping noise in the console then turns itself off. Then it continues to turn itself on and off several times. The last time a blue light showed up where the speakers are and made a high pitched continuous sound for probably 5 or 6 seconds then turned off. Help???? My TV is possessed!

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  • timanddonnar Jun 25, 2009

    When we turn the tv on, the picture never comes on the screen. It pops, makes a screeching noise then turns off. It will do this approx three times before it turns off for good. Also a light flickers on and off in the speaker area in front of the board in the back (between the board and the speaker. It looks like a tube from an old tv (has a white base, is mounted to a board an has a wire coming off of it that looks to be plugged in somewher towards the front of the unit) If we wait for about 30 or 40 seconds we can start the whole process over. Checked the capacitors, none bulging! Any other suggestions? oh, and can you please explain what the flyback looks like.

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I believe the high pictched noise you're refering to is the high voltage when your tv attempts to power on. When you say your tv turns on, is there anything on the screen? What I have experienced with several RCA itc222 is blown capacitors. When I attempted to turn the tv on it would try 3 times and then make me wait 45 seconds to try again. I don't know what to tell you about the blue light as I have never experienced that. But here is my solution if you'd like to try and fix it yourself. Be careful, but it is very doable.

I almost garantee that you need to replace a capacitor. You can check to make sure that's what you need by unplugging the tv, taking off the back cover and feeling the top of 3 capacitors. On my d52w20, CP150 (rated at 2200uf 16V) was blown and the top was bulged out. You should also check CP120 and CP114 to see if either are blown. I don't have a clear picture of where it's located, but I have a picture of what you should see after you take off the back cover.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii209/fillmore85welder/KodakMoment003-1.jpg

In the middle of the picture you see an aluminum heatsink in the shape of a 'C' with the opening facing away from you. That is where CP150 is located. CP120 and CP114 should be located nearby, but if you can feel a bulge on any of the tops of those 3 capacitors replacing them should fix your problem. Replace the existing capacitors with a higher voltage rating of either 25v or 35v.

"4 capacitors on the power/deflection board. CP110 220uf 200v. CP120 220uf 35 Volts. CP114 220uf 35 volts. CP150 2200 16 volt. also check entire delfection board for cold solder especially around flyback. bad connections here can cause problems like some of the fp fuses blowing and cutting off convergence supply"

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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I have a bulging capacitor inside the C shaped heat sink. I assume this is CP150? I will try to replace it and let you know if it works, but how do you get that board out? The stiffer large red wire goes down into the chopper mentioned above. How does this wire come out?
And by the way my monitor is a model D61W20. Is this still a solution for the 3 power light and then nothing?

Posted on Apr 20, 2011

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