Kenmore elite washer he4 door striking mechanism

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE4t Washer

WE had a person with the same problem with her HE4 front loaded washer. What we discovered was when we opened up the soap resivour was that soap built up around the float valves causing them to stick.

A technician I knew put vinegar down the soap dispensor and ran the cycle, with the washer empty. He put it on in the hot water mode and ran it for four or five complete cycles like washing clothes.

It worked for him. Try it like it did for him to see if it helps. If not, you will need to contact a service technician to see if the SUD error code means something else.

Sometimes the timer boards get a bit of moisture on them and cause a corrosion headache. I have yet to see anyone figure out a way to dry them off, and when condensation builds up, it usually means there is a problem causing the condensation to get that far up. On some versions a foam seal gets worn out from time, often needs to be replaced to prevent moisture built up.

Another thing that sometimes does it is the back of the machine, will be too close to the wall or have debris back behind there causing it not to be able to breath.

SOURCE: Broken door handle

Hi, there should be two screws holding the handle. I looked up my suppliers and this would need to be ordered. The cost is between 21 and 29 dollars, depending on color.
Part#8559750 Graphite color or P#8559751 Black
If I can assist you further, please let me know. I can order the part.

Thanks
Vic

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE4 gas dryer, no heat at all

The ignitor may be bad or the thermal fuse may be failed.

Testimonial: "I replaced both works great thanks for the conformation."

SOURCE: kenmore elite he4 quiet pak 9 dryer display code

PF - Power Failure - PF error code indicates a power failure during the dryer's cycle. Press and HOLD start to continue the cycle, or press off/pause to clear display.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Smartheat Quietpak 9 HE4 dryer taking longer to dry

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.