Question about Whirlpool 24 in. GU980SCG Built-in Dishwasher
Check the following areas to combat this issue further. Use the connector pins on the back of the control to test its operational value.
1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain
water from the wash tub)
Check the following:
Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?
Is the drain hose installed properly? See
"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of
the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)
above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)
a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet
and outlet drain hoses off the pump.
Note that there is a tab on the outlet
connector that fits into a slot in the
b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head
screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:
-Disconnect the wire connector from the
drain pump terminals.
- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.
- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each
of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.
----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --
From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:
Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?
• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?
• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation
Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test
Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps
2. Remove the console to access the machine/
motor control assembly. See Accessing
& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
3. Visually check that the P4 connector is
inserted all the way into the machine/motor
If visual check passes, go to step 4.
If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and
repeat step 1.
4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.
If resistance values are good, go to step 7.
If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem
exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor
control and the motor. Go to step 5.
5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom
of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and
take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.
If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the
If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/
motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.
If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check
the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.
7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:
Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.
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