I believe, one of the three supports on the back of inner tub has broken. I have split the outer drum halves, but now I can't remove inner tub from rear half of outer drum. Bearing seams OK, so I don't want to buy whole new assembly. Do I need any special tools to get inner tub out? How I can do it anyway? Thanks
You must be fairly competent to have got this far! So! it now needs a bit of brute force. I assume you have removed the drive pulley? Now lay the unit down, 'pulley side uppermost', support the outer tub from the floor with a couple of bricks at either side to give floor clearance to the inner tub, use a piece of hard wood (to protect the shaft end) and give the wood a HARD BLOW with a 4 pound hammer. The shaft is just 'stuck' in the bearings. Dont mess around tapping the shaft end with a small hammer, you will only bruise the shaft end. As they WOULD say around here
'' GIVE IT A GOOD SCUT WITH A 4 POUNDER''
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All outer tubs on most Washing Machines these days are sealed.
Therefore you cannot split the tub to get inside and change the bearings. instead you have to change the whole tub assembly as a complete unit. Not an easy job.
Pull the washer tub (see elsewhere on FixYa for step-by-steps), split the tub by removing the screws holding the two halves together, and remove the inner tub. Bend any tabs tighter that hold the fins on, and tighten any screws. While you have it apart, check for grease stains or other leakage on either side of the outer tub, and ensure the inner tub bearing is tight so that the inner tub shaft rotates smoothly and without oscillation. If there are stains or if the bearing is showing wear, replace that (back) half of the outer tub to replace the bearing (unless this is one of the few machines that allow you to replace only the bearing). You don't want to put all this back together, only to have to take it all apart again when the inner tub starts hammering on the inner tub because the bearing went south.
The best way I can suggest through my own personal experience is to turn the tub upside down withthe spider shaft facing down. Hold the tub up in the air about a foot and drop the whole tub on to the ground letting the shaft hit the pavement. It may take a few times to do it but it has always worked forme. Hope this helps.
IF you are lucky, the spline of the motor rotor has stripped out. It is an easy repair (about a 2 on a 1-10 difficulty scale), and the part carries a 5 year warranty (minimum, up to 10 years on newer models) Remove back cover, unscrew bolt at center of motor, pull rotor off. If spline is stripped from rotor, replace rotor and you're done. IF SPLINE IS NOT STRIPPED ....... Oh s***! The drive shaft has broken loose from the three arms which attach it to the drum. (the part is called the "spider") To repair, remove bolt on end of shaft at center of motor. You may have to cut it with an angle grinder, but don't worry about that, because the shaft has to be replaced anyway. Remove motor rotor and stator. Remove washer front, drain hose, fill hose, shock absorbers, support springs, all wires attached to outer drum, and eventually the entire outer drum. Remove bolts between front and back halves of outer tub to allow removal of inner drum. Remove 6 bolts holding 3 arms of spider to back of inner drum. Re-assemble with new spider and new bolt for end of shaft. If you can do it in under two hours, give yourself a big pat on the back. This is about a 9.5 on a 1 - 10 difficulty scale for repairs on this washer.
Oh s***! If the motor turns but the drum does not, the drive shaft has broken loose from the three arms which attach it to the drum. (the part is called the "spider") To repair, remove bolt on end of shaft at center of motor. You may have to cut it with an angle grinder, but don't worry about that, because the shaft has to be replaced anyway. Remove motor rotor and stator. Remove washer front, drain hose, fill hose, shock absorbers, support springs, all wires attached to outer drum, and eventually the entire outer drum. Remove bolts between front and back halves of outer tub to allow removal of inner drum. Remove 6 bolts holding 3 arms of spider to back of inner drum. Re-assemble with new spider and new bolt for end of shaft. If you can do it in under two hours, give yourself a big pat on the back. This is about a 8.5 on a 1 - 10 difficulty scale for washer repair. Good luck Mike.
Grinding noises are bad. If you are lucky, you got an item (like an underwire support from a bra) between the inner and outer tub, which may be removed through the heater or drain openings in the tub. If you are un-lucky, your rear tub seal failed, causing the rear bearing to fail, or the shaft broke loose from the 3 arms of the spider which drives the inner wash tub. Either of those things is $$$ and a lot of work to repair, involving removal of the outer drum, seperation of the outer drum halves, and repair. (translation: minimum 2 hours labor if you've ever done one before)
If the inner wash tub does not spin true, but wobbles and rubs against the outer plastic tub, when you try to spin it by hand. The problem is that the support arms or spider arms have failed. It is an expensive repair since the wash tub and outer tubs need to be replaced and the washer has to be torn completely apart to replace them. Check your warranty and see if the manufacturer will help with the repair costs. Get a few estimates, before deciding whether to repair or replace this. Sorry.
please contact applianceparts.com on the web I believe they will be able to find a similar part such as a whirlpool tub support then: all you will need to do is drill new holes and, bolt it in both the tub and the support the whirlpool part includes both the assemblys
Hi I found these, I have the same problem but I am taking the easy way out, BIN IT!!! answer 1: With your zanussis once you have removed the back half of the pannel and the top pannel. you will have to then detach the motor wire plug. then the heater wires and also the there is a sensoer on the side of the drum that also has a wiring connection. Also detactch the earth wires Then here come the tricky part. if you look on the top of the drum you have a rubber pipe connected to it comming from the washer draw detach that its easy. Then you have to dicconect the door seal from the front of the machine by the door (do not dissconect from the seal from the drum as you dont have to . Then disconnect the the drain hose. once this is all done you have to disconnect the legs, from the drum side. these are easily done as the pegs come out easily if you push in the pips from one side you can either knock them out with a hammer but it is best to pull em out with either some long bent nose pliers or gripping em in such a way with a monkey ranch Best way og getting the drum out is once you have done all that is to turn the machine onto its back and lifting the casing off leaving the drum 2: To replace the bearings you need to split the plastic drum that you are talking about. It is held together by lots of 8mm headed screws. Some are hard to get access to but you can get them out. You will need to take the springs off take care to support the weight of the drum and lower it on to the dampers. Now carefully lie the machine on it's front mark and unplug all the wires cut the tie that holds the wires to the outer drum unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the motor to the back of the drum unclip all the hoses that attach to the rear of the plastic drum. The damper pins need to be removed form the drum using one hand feel for a push-in clip at the back of the pin push it in and pull the hexed end of the pin out with both pins out the drum will lift out turn it upside down to expose the inner drum get help, have them hold the outer drum while you pull thr inner drum out you should now see the inner bearing get a bucket sit the outer drum on it and drift out the bearings 3: Yes, the drum shaft needs to be pushed through the bearings. assuming you have already removed the drum pulley, pick the whole assembly up and 'drop' it, pulley shaft down, onto a protective piece of wood. A few drops from various heights usually is enough to push the drum and shaft through. If you do need to resort to wacking it with a hammer, ensure a piece of wood is protecting the shaft and that the pulley bolt is fitted to protect the thread. Unless of course you are changing the drum shaft/spider anyway in which case damage is not so much of a problem.
4?? I've just tried to replace the front bearing on a Zanussi (admittedly a different model FLA1001w but a similar construction) My advice is don't bother. The notion of removing the rear half of the drum is pure fiction. All the screw bolts securing the two halves together have their heads on the front half of the drum and virtually all are impossible to get to with normal hands and tools. They are also very tight (rightly so). I elected to remove the whole drum. This sounds daunting but it does allow clear access for the rest of the job. All pipes and wires etc have to be disconnected. Remove the concrete counter balance, pulley wheel etc. Undo the plastic ring clip retaining the rubber door seal, and remove the seal from around the rim. Next I lowered the whole m/c onto its front but making sure that the door could not shut and trap the seal. In this position it is probably easier to remove the springs and the shock mounts. The plastic pins holding the shocks to the rear of the drum have a hidden locking mechanism which you only find out about after breaking one! Again the locking portion is on the front side of the drum assembly and is not clearly visible or accessible. You have to depress the locking tab to allow the pin to be extracted. The springs also have to be released; this is also not as easy as it would appear. Line up a few band-aids before attempting. Then when everything is disconnected it should be possible to lift the whole drum out. It would be easier with two people. If no-one else is around make sure you have a couple more band-aids and a can of lager waiting. Once the drum is out you can then begin to remove the countless bolts holding the two halves together. I then discovered that you really need to remove the motor as well to get the two halves apart. Having got the two halves apart it should then be a simple matter of removing the inner drum complete with spider. NOt so. It really is a tight fit in the rear bearing. Despite much effort, hammering, coaxing etc the shaft would not come out and in the end I gave up and bought a new machine. Maybe you will be luckier than me. I wish you every success and hope you can gain from my abortive attempts.
5: I have just done a bearing change on my FJ1093.It requires you to take the rear of the machine off and work towards splitting the tub in half.Take the drive belt off and the drive wheel. Unplug and remove wires (Element plugs,sensor plug and earth wires.)Remove weight from top of rear tub.Undo rubber fitting at top right hand side of rear tub. Now you have to remove all the bolts around the joint in the centre of the tubs.This is a bit awkward to get into so use a ratchet spanner and a socket set where you can. There are two bolts on the rear tub securing the motor as well.There is two shock absorber units at base that need the plastic pins removing. Once all the bolts are undone the tubs should split, but be aware of two springs at the top that need lifting up out of there locations.Also be careful of the heating element at the bottom of the tub when splitting.In hindsight though you could remove the heating element before you try to split as this saves any risk of damage.The rear tub should come off together with the drum. Once this is removed support the motor and the front tub as you don`t want all the weight to go on the front rubber seal. Now you have you access to the inner bearing and drum bearing seal once push off the drum and spider support.You can then replace these and also the outer bearing and rebuild is reverse of dismantling. I hope this helps you and there may be an easier method , but this is the way I did it. Hope these instructions help.