Question about Jenn-Air JSD2789GES Side by Side Refrigerator

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Refrigetator side is not cooling -JSD2789GES

There is a snowy frosted ice build up on the back wall of the freezer, indicating a defrost problem. Is there any way to make a repair before a repairman can come out tomorrow?

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  • Jenn-Air Master
  • 4,655 Answers

No you may not fix it but you will know how to repair it and you can order the parts yourself. Find out if you have the defrost timer or the adaptive defrost inside the control panel inside the fresh food compartment. If timer turn clockwise until compressor stops running and the freezer should begin defrost. If the freezer begins defrost the defrost should end in about 25 minutes and the compressor should begin running again. If it does not the the timer is defective. If you would like the manual email me at appliancepartsse@yahoo.com

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Jun 21, 2009

    Thank You for your vote and support! Sea Breeze

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Unit is a Jenn-air JRSD209T. Two problems. When water runs to fill the ice maker it runs down into the ice shoot leaving you with a cup of water with your ice. Second problem. Witnessed a red glow...


Hello,
For your first problem i need a bit of a clarification. Is what your saying,when you dispense ice through the door some water also comes out of the dispenser??

For the glow that is perfectly normal,what your seeing is the glow of the defrost heater melting off the biult up frost. If it did not come on and melt the frost the refrig would not be cooling.The term"FROST FREE" is a bit misleading. Their is automatic defrost refrigerators such as the one you have, and the manul defrost that you need to defrost manually every month.

Gene

Aug 12, 2011 | Jenn-Air JSD2789GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

First the refrigerator portion lost cooling but the freezer was fine over time the freezer esentially turned into a refrigerator. It is no longer making ice or keeping things frozen, but is about as cool...


the evaporator coil is frozen over and cant release cold air due to this,defrost the unit remove rear panel inside freezer and troubleshoot the defrost heater and thermostat and also make sure the fan near this coil is running, on the evaporator coil as,you cant blow cold air thru a coil covered by ice

Jul 02, 2011 | Jenn-Air JSD2789GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

My 13 y ear old Lieherr in France has Snowy Frost buildup on the back top half of the interior wall, but the temperature in the fridge even at 7 is only 10 degrees C and will not get colder. The freezer...


Hello and Welcome to FixYa!
Since you have quoted that you have already vacuumed the condenser unit from the back and had already removed all dust & lint from the condenser unit so that possibility should be ruled out. The Poor cooling that you are facing could also be (In fact the most common reason) due to the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,

Please do Rate the solution, if you feel that this helps you,

Concerned.

Aug 10, 2010 | Liebherr European Right Hinge Fully...

1 Answer

Not cooling low enough


Hello, A refrigerator or freezer that is not cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
EVAPORATOR COILS or
CONDENSER
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust,lint,and dirt.
EVAPORATOR COILS:Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build up, is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls,floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gasket.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. if one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool.
Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting
system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours (be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually". When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
  • The defrost timer
  • The defrost thermostat(also called the bi-metal switch)
  • The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor.You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.
CONDENSER: Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt, or lint, the refrigetator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and a vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint,pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front , it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Thanks













Jun 20, 2010 | Frigidaire FRT18FS6C Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Poor cooling in the freezer compartment


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Mar 29, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not cooling and freezing properly


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Mar 29, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.4 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Model #596.58642890 Side by side refrigerator is not cooling. the compressor is running and the defrost timer works. How do I check the climate controls to see if they are working properly?


Hello. Thanks for choosing fixya! Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: 1. The defrost timer 2. The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) 3. The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor.
Hope this helps, Regards, Joe

Nov 22, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge-side not cold enough


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem


Jul 29, 2009 | Hotpoint HSS25GDMWW Side by Side...

1 Answer

Refergirator not cooling


Defrost system failure.

Defrost system: Freezer fan, Defrost timer, Heater, Thermostat. If any one of these are bad the coils in the freezer will get clogged with ice and not allow the cold air to circulate over to the ref. side.

Ice/frost build up on the back wall of the freezer is an indication of this problem. You can manually defrost with a hair dryer which will give you a couple of days before it starts iceing up again. Remember, the ice you see on the back wall is just the tip of the iceburg, there is a lot more on the coils behind that wall.

Jan 06, 2009 | Amana ARS2464B Side by Side Refrigerator

4 Answers

Regrigerator stopped, now freezer too.


It is due to the defrost timer is not working. Once it is replaced, you should be good for another year. The information is given by the repairman. I have this replaced two days ago. The MayTag part number is: 61005988.

Aug 07, 2008 | Jenn-Air JSD2789GES Side by Side...

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