Is it better to use a paint sprayer or rollers for exterior walls

Wore out packings You have a little titan
Check to see if you have flat valves or balls flat valves are better but the packing kit is around 60.00 dollars also check the prime knob it also has seals .
The KEY is to always clean the mechine after use and oil the pistion with throught oil and it will last forever if you repack it every 2or 3 hundred gallons or so and use good tips

HI, let me see if I can't help you with this problem-
You are say no power as in it won't turn on and It's new, right?
Lets troubleshoot a few things right now and see if there is a simple problem that may be causing "no power"-
1-turn the power control knob all the way while you pull the trigger
2-don't use an extension cord and try a different wall outlet
3- do you a GFI wall plug (ground fault interrupter) that needs to be reset
4- look at the power cord and check if you have any obvious damage to the cord that might be causing the problem ok

Thanks,
Perry Tradesman @ Tradesman Painting & Decorating Lic.778435

Hi Sheri

I trust you are well.

I would suggest you paint on a bright sunny day when the walls you want to paint are properly dry, any paint will not take well on damo walls.

Hope this helps

kind regards

I'm sorry to hear that the container is stuck to your sprayer. Besides a bad thread or cross-threading, there isn't really any reason the container would be stuck - unless paint had been left in the gun long enough to cause it to dry. call 1-800-328-8251 and they'll do our best to assist you with this.

As a note, the Control Spray Double Duty is a thin body material sprayer for things like stains, sealers, varnish etc. Not for thick latex materials, which I suspect is what you're applying to the wall and ceiling. Not that this would cause the container to get stuck on the gun, but I wanted to point out that this gun probably isn't the best for the project you are tackling.

There is a short description about both-
Cement paint is water based paint and is applied to either exterior or interior including brick work and concrete.
Texture Paint, which may be manipulated by brush, trowel or other to give various patterns.

You have old paint that is plugging the pick-up line. you need to clean your sprayer very well each time you use it. I hope this helps you out some.

Clean it once with water then remove the filters and clean it a second time.
When we store our machines for an extender time we use mineral spirits, even better is to add a small amount of motor oil to the paint thinner ( mineral spirits) to keep the leather packings from drying out.
Even with doing you best job cleaning there is a good chance the inlet ball will stick when you start the machine up. To fix this problem tap the inlet with a hammer. Some machine have built in plungers to do this.

Let me start by saying these types of paint sprayers are not usually recommended for painting large things like room walls because you're going to spend a lot of time refilling the paint cup. The cup only holds 20 ounces of paint and that won't go very far on your walls. If all your paint isn't mixed and properly thinned at the same time your walls could end up with a checker board look. You would usually be way further ahead to rent an airless paint sprayer.
If you have to use it; first run your paint through a paint strainer, avaliable at any paint or box store (The Home Deopt, Lowes, etc). Even new paint has impurities that will clog paint guns. It's highly recommended you mix in a paint conditioner like Flotrol but not absolutely necessary. Next, you're going to have to experiment with the consistency of the paint to get a good even flow out of the gun. The thinner you have to make the paint to get a good flow, the lighter and more coats you're going to have to apply. It's also recommended to run a paint soaked roller over the wall right after you spray it to even out the paint and remove any overlap marks.

It depends on 3 things.
What you are painting.
Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
Oil-base primer: 1 thinner to 4 paint
Latex primer: use a roller and brush so you have a good undercoat for the paint.
Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on paint project.

We used paint sprayers every day for years.

Tips come in different sizes. With oil base paints we used the small tip like a 4-11. With latex we used bigger tips, like a 5-17. Really big spray rigs use 5-19. Tip size matters.

Another important thing is to strain the paint. The paint store sells 5-gallon-size strainers. Put the strainer over a 5-gallon bucket. Pour the paint into the bucket. Lift the strainer up, and finally grab it with your hands and squeeze the paint out. Do this in the grass and then wash out the strainer for next time. Put a lid over the paint bucket so the paint stays wet and clean.

We used high pressure sprayers, and then wrapped a filter right over the intake... but the tips would still clog. We had guns with reversible tips ... rotate the tip around, fire the gun, and the clog was gone.

Maybe your tip is getting clogged real fast. When that happens, the gun simply doesn't shoot. The old guns, we had to take them apart every time the tip clogged. I don't know about the tip on your gun.

Your paint sprayer is probably not very high pressure, which means it would clog easily if stuff was in the paint ... and latex is thick and sticky and it gets crusty as it dries.

Suggestion: I would ask Sherwin Williams about the tip. See if they sell parts or tips at the Home Depot or Sherwin Williams.

Also you can clean the gun out with lacquer thinner. See if the lacquer thinner will pass through the gun. I would take it apart and clean everything with a toothbrush, and soak it in lacquer thinner. It might work, but the home-depot-home-owner-spray-equipment is generally not made for more than a few jobs. Especially the wagner-diaphragm-type guns.

Something else you might consider for a cedar-type picket fence. A roller. Sherwin Williams sells thick shaggy roller covers that hold a lot of paint. The little cheap roller covers can't paint a fence or anything else because they're too thin. We almost never sprayed a fence. We'd put masonite along the bottom and then just threw paint up with a roller [slap it on as the customers used to claim] >>> for cedar pickets, thin the paint with water (1 gallon water per 5 of paint) so it flows into the holes and gaps. Roll the fence, and then go back and touch up with a brush or the sprayer. A paint job on a fence always looks better the next day [unlike some things] so sometimes it's best to wait 1 day before doing the brush work.