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Fuse keeps blowing

Replaced soleniod, stater switch, verified starter ok, traced all wires no bare spots, fuse blows as soon as I put in holder or turn on switch

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  • 53 Answers

Check thwe stater up under the flywheel, sometimes they get dirt and grass up there and mess with the copper coil. also i had one one time that the stator had a bad wire one time and was blowing fuses also. all i did waS cut that part of the wire out and fix problem. good luck

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Battery died and blew both fuel and ignition fuses, replaced them both and put in another battery , soon as connect battery the fuel fuse keeps blowing,, Suzuki Boulevard


Hi, Mark you have a dead short which is usually the easiest to find. Using a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder, start probing the wire leaving the fuse holder about an inch away the test light should illuminate, keep probing towards the ignition switch until the test light no longer illuminates you are now very close to the short. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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I have a sabre garden tractor that keeps blowing the fuse for the ignition i found no bare wiring anywhere.


The only reason a fuse blows is because it got overloaded(too much amps). Most lawn/garden tractors use separate soleniod for the starter and you said it blows a fuse as soon as you turn on the key. At that point the starter wouldn't(or shouldn't) have any current to it at all. A stuck on soleniod would keep the starter engaged till you unhooked one of the battery cables. Find what that fuse protects in electrical system and start looking for bare wires, maybe a wire has rubbed through where it's laying against metal

May 13, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

2000 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan keeps blowing ignition fuse


Hi, Jeff before diagnosing your blown fuse issue check the bottom of your seat if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses also you need to fix your stator plug first before proceeding.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with and ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jun 03, 2017 | 2000 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

I replacsed th wiper transmission and now the wiper fuse keeps blowing I did not work on any thing but that


Does the fuse blow when the wipers are off or when you turn the wipers on? A fuse blowing means either a short circuit or an overload. Lets say that your wiper transmission is new and working properly, then an overload is probably blowing the fuse which is caused by the circuit pulling to much current because something is not aligned correctly and moving freely when the wiper motor is turned on. Before you connect the arms to the transmission, move the arm assembly manually with your hand to make sure the wipers go across and back on the windshield. This will verify that the arm assembly is moving freely and not jamming. Then turn the wiper transmission without connecting the wiper arms and see if the transmission is working properly and not blowing the fuse. This will verify that your wiper transmission is not defective. Check the wiring going to the wiper transmission for any bare spots or nicks on the wire insulation. If you have a bare spot or nick that is touching metal, the fuse will blow (this is called a short circuit). If you find a bare spot or nick on the wire use electrician tape to insulate the bare spot or nick. Usually three wraps of electrician tape around the bare spotor nick will do the job. Oh, make sure to replace the fuse with the correct amp fuse. Your car dealer auto parts can provide the information (over the phone) on the correct amp size. You can purchase the fuse at any auto parts. FYI: Too small an amp on the fuse will blow when the wiper is turned on. Too large of a fuse will cause the wiring to burn if your wipers should stop shifting and jam. Good Luck. Hope this helps.

Mar 07, 2014 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fuse for tail lights blows as soon as ignition turned on


Sounds like you have a dead short in the circuit. Get out the VOM and remove the fuse. Remove the bulb(s) that are powered by this fuse. On the load side of the fuse holder check for continuity to ground, there should be none. If there is start tracing wires, that means there is a bare wire touching ground or a switch has gone bad.

Jan 20, 2014 | 2005 Honda VTX 1300 S

1 Answer

1989 chrysler new yorker dash and dome lights and fuse problems


You have a direct short. Take the bulb out of dome light, inspect the socket. Try putting fuse back in while bulb is out. If the fuse blows again, Id say it's in the wiring from the fuse box to the the switch. If the dome light fuse also covers other electrical things, such as lighter, check the socket at all points. You mentioned that other fuses were replaced as well? Which ones, and why did they blow? Sometimes it could be moisture entering your fuse box, or condensation near the computer, but is sounds more like a short. Could be as minor a a bad ground wire, or a chafed wire. While you are putting the fuse back in, it will help to keep your eyes looking around the fuse box for sparks as soon as the fuse goes in. You should also listen for that electrical snap. If this doesn't help, I'd suggest taking head panel down and follow and inspect the wires from dome down to the switch. Then from switch [ which could also be the cause ] to fuse box. look for hot spots, arcs, and bare spots. I hope this helps you out. keep me informed

Jan 05, 2013 | 1989 Chrysler New Yorker

2 Answers

Tail light fuse keeps blowing. I have traced the wiring back to the tail lights and it all seems fine. I have taken out the turn signal lights and the light switch, put in to the first position for parking...


Are the bulbs out of the sockets and the fuse blows?
Take bulbs out and check again
Place one back at a time if fuse was OK with bulbs out to locate bad bulb.
Otherwise.......
Do this........if still needed with bulbs out and fuse blowing.
Put a circuit breaker in to replace the fuse of the same amperage.
It will trip off then back on.
Use a standard cheap magnetic compass........place along lighting wiring........the wire with current will cause the needle to jump as circuit breaker trips on and off.
Follow path of current to problem.....the compass will stop moving once past the shorted /grounded wire/connection.

Sep 02, 2009 | 1997 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

1996 mazda b2300 manual blowing # 24 fuse, the ignition,clutch,starter fuse every time i turn truck over. Giggle the wires under clutch peddle replace fuse and it starts right up..why fuse keep blowing?...


They may not need to be replaced but they need to be repaired. Somewhere under there in that wire harness you have a power wire that has a bare spot chafed in the insulation. You'll have to unwrap that bundle, the one you jiggle, and check each wire carefully for a bare spot. Start with any wire that is red,pink, orange; those are the normal power wire colors, but don't stop if you find one. There could be more than one. Just tape over the bare spots, you don't necessarily need to replace them. If the wire harness has beeen rubbing on a piece of the car try to reposition it so this doesn't happen again. Zip ties work good for this. Hope this helps.

Aug 11, 2009 | Mazda B-Series Truck Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

#8 fuse blows as soon as replaced


What ever the fuse is going to has a "direct short" in it. Either somewhere on the wire between the fuse and the appliance it is hooked to there is a bare spot (a place where the wire insulation has worn off) and it is making direct contact with a ground (car body) or the appliance the fuse is hooked up to has been damaged, and has shorted out, and needs to be replaced.

Solution: trace the wire from the fuse to the appliance looking for bare wire, if you find that cover it with electrical tape and problem solved. If not then unhook the appliance and replace the fuse. If the fuse does not blow then the appliance is bad and replace the appliance.

Apr 26, 2009 | 1990 Mercury Grand Marquis

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