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Anonymous Posted on Jan 11, 2018

Hotplate and oven temp

We have a ceramic cooktop, the hotplates heat up fine but stay really hot after being turned down. Also the oven becomes too hot and burns food on the outside that is till raw in the middle, even when the controls say the oven is at the correct cooking temperature. Can you suggest what the problem is?

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Dayton Computer

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  • Posted on Jan 11, 2018
Dayton Computer
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There are several possibilities. Make certain your fuse at the main electrical box is correct for a 220VAC line. You do not want to OVER POWER the range. If that is normal, check all cords for insulation and flexibility. Check thermostat controls on the burners and/or oven.
If parts are normal, the only thing you can do is manually set temps lower when using the oven. Glass tops generally stay hot for several minutes after they are turned off. That is Normal, for example, to avoid Glass from fracturing; temperature slowly declines. Lastly; if all is lost, call for a serviceman to check it out, as you do not want a house fire.

3 Related Answers

barkencoa

Barry Coates

  • 3463 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2010

SOURCE: Hotplate on ceramic cooktop not working, another won't turn down.

If 1 of the plates is not working at all, then it is going to be the plate itself, or a faulty regulator, you will have to take it apart to check the plate.
The other plate that you cannot control, needs the regulator replacing.

Testimonial: "Thank you so much for your reply. I am not sure how to get at the hotplates as they are under the ceramic top. Can you help with that?"

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Paul Bade

  • 1818 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 07, 2011

SOURCE: Question from electricain with long

I wonder if L1 and N are reversed, at least for this hot plate. The readings you get are consistent with a switched neutral and always-connected L1. This is not permitted in any electrical code I know.

If you get a constant 240 V at "terminal 1" referenced to "terminal 2", but no heat, and the resistance is consistent with a 1400 W heater when it's cold, I'd suspect a heater terminal or the element itself is opening up when it gets warm. If you have a means of measuring current such as a clamp-on induction ammeter, you may see an initial current up to 6 amps, then a quick drop-off to zero, random fluctuation, or cycling on and off. That would confirm my hypothesis.

Anonymous

  • 235 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 06, 2011

SOURCE: yes i have a westinghouse

When this occurs the problem is always with the hotplate controllers. Has this happened to all hotplates at the same time or has it occurred over a certain time period?

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