The head unit has power and the EQ has power but there is no power to the capacitor and the amplifiers it has worked for 4 years with no problem until now I was wondering if the Lanzar EQ has gone bad because I have a manual switch to my eq and when I usually turn it on I here the power go through the speakers, but now you here nothing but the eq does have power.
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There is nada wrong with your preamp and changing it will accomplish nothing. If your channels are allegedly clipping it is due to the fact that it is being over driven. A bad preamp could not over drive your amp!
Have to be careful with tone controls at high levels. Every 3db increase compels amp to double power at that frequency. So if you are blasting at 2000 watts and you boost a control by that amount, your amp will put out 4000 watts and clip. If plus 6db then it is 8000 watts!
From what I have read about this EQ it is just for subsonic frequencies. You really don't want to run your components through this EQ. Leave the components running off of the 4 channel amp and your sub box on the two channel with the EQ in series between your head unit and the sub amp.
This kind of problem is often caused by transients in the signal
processor as it powers down finding their way into the signal path,
which the amplifier then transmits to the speakers.
Usually this can be solved by adding a little turn-off delay to the
processor. This allows the processor to stay powered on for a short
time after the amplifiers have powered down, thus preventing the pop.
Many components sold today (such as crossovers, equalizers, etc) have
delays built-in. Read your manual to see if it is possible to set this
delay on your piece of equipment or be sure to look for this feature
during your next car audio purchase.
If your processor does not have this feature, you can build your own
delay circuit with a diode and a capacitor. Add a 1N4004 diode in
series with the processor's turn-on lead, striped side towards the EQ.
Then add a capacitor in parallel, the (+) side of the cap connects to
the striped (processor) side of the diode, the (-) side of the cap goes
to ground (not the radio or EQ chassis - connect to the car chassis).
Experimenting with the cap value will give you the right amount of delay
before the EQ shuts off. You don't want it too long, just long enough to
make sure the amp is off before the EQ powers down. 220 - 1000 uF is
about right, and make sure the cap is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or
higher. Also keep in mind that the diode will introduce a 0.7V drop on
the remote wire, which can cause the processor to power down before the
rest of the system.
the blue line from the radio harness does not have power when the cd or aux are being used and the amp is not turning on-wire the remote line from the amp to the red line and your amp will stay on and you will get sound
The RCA inputs of the amp are many times NOT tied to chassis ( the chassis of the car ) ground.
Same goes for the RCA outputs of your head unit.
The speaker outputs of your amp SHOULD NOT EVER be tied to chassis ground.
make sure that no speaker wire from the amplifier is touching or attached to ground.
Make sure that your amplifier ground (GND )( of the 3 power inputs.....GND, +12V, Rem) is securely mounted to a bare metal spot on the frame. Best practice is to have the amp GND, and the head unit GND at the exact same physical point.
Make sure that your RCA cable shield ( not the center tip, but the part around it ) is not touching the chassis.
Make sure that you have not nicked the wire while installing it and are accidentally getting a connection to the frame of the car.
Make sure that the head unit is grounded properly.
IF for some reason you have an equalizer between the head unit and the amplifier, make sure it has its own switching power supply INSIDE the EQ.
Bad grounds are a pain to troubleshoot......best of luck....Rob