I recently (yesterday) purchased an LG window unit. It says to unplug plug in back of unit to drain and insert the little black drain pipe. I cannot figure this out. Can you help?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello Ted Belville - Try reprogramming the unit by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and restart unit. If it proves to be ineffective, consider contacting your manufacturer directly since the unit was just recently purchased to see who in your area can assist with a proper diagnosis.
The problem you're experiencing can be caused bu 2 things: The drain hose is clogged or to long or the inner drain tubing to the hose connection is clogged.
The drain hose clog is is easy to solve. However, the inner tubing clog takes a little more effort.
First turn the unit OFF & unplug it. Disconnect the drain hose. Using an appropriately sized, 18" long, plastic
Zip Tie, carefully insert the tip of Zip Tie into the hose connector hole and inner tubing.
Continue to push it in until you reach a bend in the tubing. You will
need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past this bend, until it either
bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. Then slowly pull the Zip
Tie back out while rotating (twisting) it. This will breakup any clogs.
As you reach the inserted end of the Zip Tie, be prepared, as some water
may follow.Reconnect the drain hose, plug the unit in and turn the Master
ON/OFF Switch to ON. Set the humidity extraction level to 35% or
Maximum if you have a manually controlled unit. Allow the unit to run,
while you monitor the hose end for water flow. be patient as it may take 5 to 10 minutes to start flowing.
NOTE: If you don't have a Zip Tie, you may use something similar ( i.e.a long pipe cleaner), but NO wire coat hangers.
Hope this helps you to solve the problem. Thanks for choosing FixYa.
The problem lies with the water tubing the drains water into the bucket being clogged. To solve the problem do the following:
First turn the unit OFF & unplug it.
Remove
the water collection bucket and look up inside the bucket holder
cavity. You will see either a drain hole or small tubing that drains the
water into the bucket. Using an appropriately sized, 18" long, plastic
Zip Tie, carefully insert the tip of Zip Tie into the hole or tubing.
Continue to push it in until you reach a bend in the tubing. You will
need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past this bend, until it either
bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. Then slowly pull the Zip
Tie back out while rotating (twisting) it. This will breakup any clogs.
As you reach the inserted end of the Zip Tie, be prepared, as some water
may follow. Reinstall the bucket, plug the unit in and turn the Master
ON/OFF Switch to ON. Set the humidity extraction level to 35% or
Maximum if you have a manually controlled unit. Allow the unit to run,
while you monitor it for any leakage.
NOTE: If you don't have a Zip Tie, you may use something similar ( i.e.a long pipe cleaner), but NO wire coat hangers.
I hope this helped you to solve the problem & thanks for choosing FixYa.
I own this dehumidifier. To connect it to a garden hose for drainage you first need the special connector pipe/adapter that comes with the unit. It's white plastic and about a foot long, It may be stored in the top of the bucket drawer, where it ships from the factory. Your hose connects to the threaded fitting on one end. The other end is inserted into the hole in the back of the unit. You slide it straight in until it mates with a drain connection inside the unit. You can see this black pipe connection if you pull the bucket drawer all the way out and look in the very top right hand corner of the opening of the unit. Once the white tube is fully and correctly inserted you'll find two plastic tabs on the tube near the hose connection. The larger tab points straight up and blocks the tube from being inserted too far. The smaller tab points down and hooks into the slot in the bottom of the round opening to keep it from getting knocked loose. Your dehumidifier should now drain through the hose instead of into the bucket. Of course, be sure your hose is routed across a floor to a drain or sump pump located lower than the unit, since the water flows by gravity.
Condensation occurs when warm, humid air is pulled across a cold fins of an air conditioner and blown out the front as cool, dry air.
What is happening with your air conditioner sounds to be normal operation - here's why:
The condensate usually drips onto the ground from traditional window air conditioner units or through a pipe to the ground from remote air handlers of split systems. Since yours has no place to drain away into soil or waste pipe, it is collected in a compartment that must be emptied, just like a dehumidifier. When the compartment is full, the unit shuts off - otherwise the compartment would overflow on the the flooring or carpet. This could be a very expensive repair if hardwood floors were damaged or carpeting were to become moldy. Even more so if the the space under yours were finished - like an apartment building or if you used this on the second floor of your home - and damage to the ceiling below were damaged.
You could operate the device if it were connected by a hose to a drain at or below the bottom of the connection point (a floor drain, shower drain, etc.) or if the unit were placed on a counter top and allowed to drain into a sink or other drain / waste pipe below the the hose connection point. The hose must not get higher than the connection point at the drain plug on the air conditioner to work properly.
I assume it is dripping water when the AC is running. If you look at the attic unit, there should be a PVC pipe running from the unit - probably an insulated PVC pipe. This pipe probably goes across the attic to the edge of the house and drains outside. The drain pan may also have a drain pipe, but the one on the AC unit is the issue, and is probably plugged. Go outside and see if you can locate the AC drain pipe. See if the ground is wet below the pipe and if water is steadily dripping from the pipe (with AC running). If the pipe and ground are dry, the pipe is plugged. If you have a wet/dry vac, try connecting it to the drain pipe outside to see if you can **** the pluggage out. If you can get it clear, water should start dripping out of the pipe. This same thing happened at our house. I decided to cut the pipe in the attic, and add in a PVC isolation valve, tee, and water hose connection with plug, so I can valve out the AC unit from the pipe, remove hose connection plug, and hook up a water hose and flush the line to outside. Lowe's sells all of the PVC pipe fittings. The water pressure from the hose will always flush out the algae and crud to the outside of the house. I can also remove the plug and pour a cup of bleach down the drain pipe every couple of months to keep algae growth in check. I also cut out the trap (u-leg) from pipe in the attic and purchased a ready made trap a Lowes (the contractor who built our house had made a lousy homemade trap). I purchased a few PVC elbows and installed the trap on the drain pipe outside. By the way, our AC drain pipe comes out of our wall outside and drains near our outside unit. Our secondary drain pan drain pipe comes out outside from an eave on the side of the house. I don't know what you drain line looks like (it may have a port to add bleach, or some cleanout provisions, maybe not). If you choose to modify/improve it, then make a sketch of it, go to Lowe's and get the PVC parts you need + PVC pipe primer and cement. PVC cement dries fast. Remember, the pipe must flow downhill from you AC attic unit. You can use a regular wood saw to cut the pipe. I hope this helps you. You need to keep the drain line clear as algae will continue to grow in it. Pouring bleach in the line every month or two helps. You also need to check maybe once a month that the line is draining properly (check to see if dripping outside). You can get some serious water damage to your ceilings if the water backs up and overflows. I discovered that our drain line was plugged just in time as our drain pan drain line was also partially plugged and drain pan was about to overflow.
No, not a defect. The condensation from the A.//C should drainout through a drain line to the outside.. It is usually a pcv pipe running into the floor and attached to the A/C. The lines?drain plugs up from slgae and bigs so if you can access it from the inside, you need to flusgh it out. And somtimes the outside end gets either buried or blocked by grass or cobwebs and grass. I just had flood dsmage because of my drain being restricted. I put a garden hose into the indoor end of the drain and turn the water on to flush out everything. Takes two people so you can control and prevent back up.
unplug the machine take the back off and look for a small pipe 5mm going upwards, take it off and blow gently into it you should hear a click and one when you let the air out if so then the place you took the pipe from is blocked clean out the pipe with a pipe cleaner or metal rod replace the 5mm pipe put the back on retry the machine eric
×