Question about Frigidaire FRT21P5A Top Freezer Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: water leaking into bottom of
Drain hose clogged. Removed rear panel and blew out hose. draining fine and no water leaking into bottom of freezer or floor. Be sure to thaw out drain and tray before you return to service.
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
SOURCE: cold freezer/warm refrigerator
Same problem with Frigidaire Gallery model#GLRT182SAW5 (dated 2002 on back of case)
Vents were blocked with ice. Vents (from top compartment to lower) located behind light. You can check by poking a chopstick up the (2) holes; be careful not to hit fan blades.
- took freezer coil cover off in back; checked that defrost heater element was working (marked and rotated the timer in the hole next to light); checked that fan working. Found ice in the vents and defrost drip area. Got it out with hair dryer.
- cleaned compressor coils in back (check fan is rotating; also tweaked some of the compressor tubing bends to make them more smooth - read somewhere about a manufacturing defect ...); blew out drip tube from defroster while down there.
- Set the freezer control to WARM and the refrig control to COLD (THIS SHOULD IMPROVE AIR FLOW FROM TOP TO BOTTOM).
- Put thermometers in top and bottom. Checked that refrigerator cycles (not running continuously). Checked that cold air is coming down from (2) vents behind light.
OK: so far, so good. Lower compartment is 40 or under. Top is under 18.
CONCLUSION: Suspect marginal design. Had problems with another similar model where defroster ice doesn't drain correctly, pools and refreezes. Leading to blocked vents as well as blocked defroster drain and similar problem including dripping water from top to bottom and warm bottom.
MAYBE KEEPING THE FREEZER CONTROL AT WARM GETS AROUND THE PROBLEM?? ANYWAY, ITS WORKING FOR ME FOR NOW !!
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
The freezer will stay cold because a small
amount of cold air will be forced through the frost but that will not
be enough to make it up to the refrigerator portion. You can defrost
the unit by removing the metal panel and allowing the frost to melt.
Careful use of a hairdryer can speed up this process. This will likely
be a temporary fix. The root cause of excessive frost can be caused by
a bad door seal or a defective defrost circuit.
First check that the door seal is good by closing the door on a dollar bill at several points around the door, both on the freezer and refidgerator door. If you can pull the bill out with no resistance, the door is not making a good seal. Inspect the seal and make sure there isn't anything stopping the door from closing such as food, or a shelf not pushed in all the way.
If the door seal is good, the defrost system is likely defective. The defrost system has three main parts, the defrost heater, thermostat, and timer. None of these parts are particularly expensive, or difficult to replace you feel comfortable with repairing it yourself. If you can troubleshoot this by manually starting the defrost cycle. Let me know if you would like this procedure.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling
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Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.
you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
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