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Tryed to remove gas line fitting from back of dryer but fitting that goes into dryer started turning around,i dont know if i hurt anything inside dryer where gas mite leak?

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  • totalltom Jun 21, 2009

    the fitting made a complete turn inside the dryer where i cant see so i dont know if i did any damage inside machine where i cant see,can anyone tell me if its ok to use or do you think i could have a gsa leak?

  • totalltom Jun 21, 2009

    i guess so

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Yes its very much possible of having a gas leak.for safety purpose. its advisable not to use it until a technician checks it manually. i hope u can understand the risk factor.
plse let a tech check it.
thanks for using fixya.keep updated.
please do not forget to accept and rate this solution positively

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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  • Master
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Hi i will provide u the solution on how to safely replace a gas line to ur dryer...

Gas fittings work best if you tighten very snug. 1)first shut off the gas.... 2)Tighten nut 1/4 to a 1/2 turn each time. 3)Turn gas on. 4)Get a spray bottle with soapy water in it and spray the fitting heavy. if it doesn't bubble up you probably have it licked.... i will give u the alternate solution also u can try out this solution also Well, 1st thing...do not use until you fix the leak. Take some everyday dish soap and mix with water about 50/50 and put into a spray bottle and spray down all of the fittings aling with the gas valve on the dryer. Let this sit on the fittings and you will begin to see bubbles this will locate the leak. Next uninstall the fitting and make sure to clean the old pipe dope off and reapply it and reinstall fitting.. hope this will fix ur problem and u can drop ur worries from gas leak... thank u rate me

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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Machine just locked up, no obvious thread/needle issues, can't find answers in book...safety function on, Help! Someone said take bottom off and look for thread? Only used it a few times, but out of...


Can you turn the hand wheel at all ? If not, something is jammed tight somewhere.

Have you removed the bobbin from the bobbin case and cleaned thoroughly around it, removing all lint, dust, loose thread bits ?

If that does not help, can you try taking apart the shuttle assembly, which the bobbin fits into ?

Sometimes you may get thread wound around in these parts and it causes a jam. Please, observe how the parts of the shuttle assembly fit together so you know how to put it back together. There may be a small lever or pair of levers that must be moved to allow the parts to be pulled out. There aren't many, usually two or three pieces.

It's very useful to snap pics.. of it the way it looks before you touch it, and then each step as you take it apart, so you have a guide to putting it back.

It's also possible a gear is jammed. Most machines allow you to remove the upper casing and bottom casing. You'd have to take out some screws to do this. If anything is jammed between gears that you can see, remove it carefully. If you have to use a tool to pull out something jammed, take care not to damage the gear teeth, as that's a big repair job and often not worth the expense compared to buying another machine, sadly.

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How do I get the top back on a Singer touch and sew sewing machine?


I'm not sure what you took off, but I suspect that it was the cover over the thread path because that has to be removed first. If that's the case, it WILL go back on without forcing. You are right in not trying to force anything into place. Sometimes you just have to manipulate it around for a while, but it helps to use the screw holes as a reference point in lining it up. When you've got it lined up, it will indeed snap into place without forcing--it will just kind of "settle."

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Replace fuel filter f-250 gas truck


SAFETY FIRST!!! Keep all heat sources, sparks, and flames away from the work area. Remove either the fuel pump fuse or fuel pump relay. Start the engine a few times to remove the fuel pressure from the fuel filter. Wear safety glasses, have a fire extinguisher available, bring rags, and a drain bucket too. After the fuel pressure is relieved, located the fuel filter on the inside of the driver's side frame rail. In a controlled manner, remove the retaining clips and slowly pull the fuel lines away from the fuel filter. Don't force them. Don't stress them to the point that they may break. Do not kink the fuel lines. After removing the fuel lines. You will notice some fuel leaking out. Use the rags to keep yourself clean. Gas is harsh and can irritate your skin. The fumes can make you nauseous too. work in a well ventilated area. After the old fuel filter is removed from the mount reverse the procedure. Place the new filter into the mount (with the arrow facing in the direction of the flow, towards the front of the truck), Install the new retaining clips that came with the filter, and install them the same way that the old one's were removed (look at them closely, they can snap in two ways but only one way is right). Slide the fuel line back onto the fuel filter (as straight as possible). sliding the fuel line back on, on an angle can damage the o-ring (do not force it back on). After both fuel lines are installed, gently tug on each fuel line. Make sure that they are secure. Reinstall the fuel pump fuse or relay and cycle the key on and off to pressurize the fuel line. Turn the ignition key off and go back to the fuel filter, check for leaks. Start the engine and again check for leaks. Clean up your work area and be careful where you store those rags. Until the gas completely evaporates, they are very flammable. Any questions, please write back.

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1 Answer

My needle has started hitting on the bobbin case in the mahine,can anyone tell me how to fix this problem.


Could be a couple of things:

Could be a bent needle? please change it for a sharp new one and make sure it goes in correctly, flat shank to the back.

Bobbin case dislodged or not in correctly ; I think these are vertical rotary hook machines with the bobbin inside a removeable bobbin case? Check that you have put the case in correctly, there is usually a long finger on the case that latches into a point on the rotary hook, holding the case in the correct position. Probably also a latch on the front of the bobbin case, which you use to fit it into place and remove it.

Lastly could be that the machine timing is out. Manually turn through a stitch sequence with no thread or bobbin, the needle needs to be at its lowest point down into the bobbin area when the rotary hook brings the thread around to catch at the back of the needle.

If you suspect it is the timing, you may want to get a technician to do this repair but certainly try the first two items first.

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Should the machine have some oil? Where? It is a Bernina Activa 130


The Activa range is fitted with a light-weight part-plastic hook/shuttle that Bernina claims does not require oiling. However, this does not mean it shouldn't be regularly cleaned and I'd recommend that it is also lightly oiled at the same time. Remove the bobbin case, press the metal lever to the top left of the bobbin door and the black plastic hook/shuttle retainer should pop open so that the hook/shuttle can be removed, or it will just drop out anyway. Use a cotton bud to firmly clean around the inside edge of the hook race (the round piece that the hook/shuttle sits in. Give the whole thing a good clean to make sure any surface grime/fluff is removed. Put a small drop of oil on the running surface of the hook race - the recessed groove around the inside edge, before replacing the hook/shuttle and holding in place by pressing the hook/shuttle retainer back until the securing lever clicks back into place. Rotate the handwheel once to distribute the oil and off you go. Dont overoil but do this regularly and your machine will run much quieter and produce a consistent stitch formation.

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1 Answer

When the machine starts the bobbin shifts, instead of stitching it jams. I have tried to replace it but I don't seem to be having any luck. Elna 6003 quilters dream


Sounds like the bobbin case has shifted inside the rotary hook area. Have you got the manual? if so, does it give directions to remove the bobbin case as part of the cleaning instructions? If you have never taken it out, perhaps take pics with your digital camera to help you put it back in correctly. It is held in by a magnet underneath it. Remove the needle plate, pressure foot and needle, and the bobbin.

Have a good look at the bobbin case, it should have a stopper which sits against a little bump and might have two red marks to line up correctly. Are these lining up or has it shifted a little. If so, then lift out the bobbin case by holding the edge closest to you and lifting it upwards and towards you. Brush the underneath area out carefully to remove any lint or thread bits with your little brush bringing the lint out of the area and into a bin (dont push it around into the area under the rotary hook) and don't blow it out with air. Have a good look at the bobbin case too and check it for any damage, if you dislodge it while stitching the needle can strike it and as its plastic there may be little marks or bits of plastic now, if so, give them a gentle rub with fine grade sandpaper (away from the machine works) or a nail file to smooth off. I found that mine had a couple of holes and the thread was then catching on the rough edge of plastic and jamming constantly. I actually bought a new bobbin case after 3 goes to sort this out.

Now put the bobbin case back into place, lining up the red marks if it has them. Manually turn the flywheel towards you through a stitch sequence, the holder should sit still while the hook goes around it.

Reassemble the machine, rethread and test sew. I hope this helps, if you have tried all this already, then perhaps take it to your Elna dealer for further investigation/service.

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There should be a washer that fits over the balance wheel, if you dont put that back on the machine wont work.
Check around and see if it fell off when you removed the knob, or check to see if it is stuck inside the knob.

The washer is about 1" in diameter with a couple little tabs on it.
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1 Answer

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If it is a top loader you must remove the metal needle plate, if front loader, there will be two black clips holding the bobbin case secure with a retaining collar........as you remove them be careful to note the position and orientation of the bits so when you re-assemble, you know where everything goes......a couple of digi-photos are not a bad idea for this.

If there is no thread jam, the shaft, either upper or lower, may be seized......if you can remove the top and bottom casings, a little penetrating spray (WD40 etc) may work, leave for an hour and try to work it free by hand back and forth gently....sometimes it can take several applications and many days depending on the level of corrosion.

Don't "drown" it in oil, and having something like kitchen towel around inside the carcass to absorb excess and runoff.

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If you have a casing that is moulded in 2 sections (front & rear) rather than several panels for top, sides and bottom, DO NOT ATTEMPT to open it, you will spend an age in frustration and probably break the casing, they are the devil to open when you have a service manual and NOT something you want to try at home. If you have the 2 piece case, try spraying inside with the small tube attachment on the can via bobbin winder hole, behind and to the right of the bobbin region and any where else you can get the tube, a couple of quick shots in several locations, go and have a nice cup of tea then come back and check for any movement.

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

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